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Epoxy or polyester for fretless fingerboard?

superglue is softer than polyester and epoxy.
the danger with spraying polyester is that if you don't have a air mask or the like, when you breath in the spray it hardens straight away before your lungs can deal with it thus filling up your lungs with solid plastic, cool if you want to use then as a book end but not if you want use them to suck air in and out.
I remember that story, didn't it explode in the middle of a solo and take his head clean off and killed three people in the crowd one of them his nan who had come to see her granson play and was banging it up in the mosh pit?
thats what I heard, I was in the bar at the time but I'm sure I'm right.
 
"I've pretty much figured out from info here that I need to sand the fb (grit?), do some taping and then apply several thin coats with sanding (not sure what grit to use again)."

I offer the following as a furniture maker and college woodworking instructor.

When dry sanding raw wood, use garnet or aluminum oxide abrasives up through 220-grit.

When dry sanding to flatten finishes, use 320-grit "open coat" aluminum oxide abrasive.

When wet sanding to rub out a finish, use silicon-carbide wet-or-dry abrasives, starting with 320- or 400-grit and working your way up until the desired sheen is achieved.

Whether sanding raw wood or flattening and polishing finishes, use a work light at a raking angle and examine every square inch of the surface to assure a consistent scratch pattern before moving to a finer abrasive or applying another coat of finish.

Let me know if you have more questions.
 
pilotjones said:
Are you talking about the stuff used to repair rotted wood?

It's similar, but without the microsolids for filling. This stuff acts more as a wood protectant. It penetrates the grain much deeper than regular epoxy, but dries just as hard, thus giving you more durability on a fretless board, while still retaining the appearence of the natural wood if desired, or can be polished to give the finished look. I have been using it for a couple of months now, and have done some testing to see if it would work. It does a great job, and it takes a lot to scratch the wood after the epoxy has set.
 
ok...info....System 3 is a marine penetrating epoxy, and very popular among the epoxy board guys. The penetrating epoxy is thinner viscosity, thus penetrates more, and allows you to either finish, or have the wood look. $60 for the 48 oz twin pak. Campbell and sons penetrating epoxy, same basic principal as above. $34 for 1 quart twin pak. I have used both of these now, and they both seem to do a good job, I am going to test them against "wood hardener" with a thin epoxy top coat for personal comparison. when I get to it, i will post the result.

As for the penetrating epoxys, I like the look , but still prefer to apply a thin glaze of regular epoxy on top, as I like the shiny look, and the added durability.
 
A trick I use is to mix up a batch of 30 min epoxy, and thin it out w/ spirits 50/50. Be sure to mix it very well. Then you can simply wipe it on with a brush or a rag. It penetrates really well, and gives that thin finish on top of the wood. I did a fingerboard like this with great results. I also stabilized some black palm w/ this technique.
 
very similar to what I used to do dusty, except I used xylene instead, and yes it does work well, except, if you are using an oilier wood such as bacote or cocobolo, the solvent can break down the oil and cellulose in the wood. This is what drove me to try the "System 3" as it is not a solvent based, or thinned epoxy, thus making it more reliable for oilier woods.

Thanks for bringing up the thinning point, I completely forgot about that for the one timers. +1
 
AJClone said:
But what are the differences between poly and epoxy? Is one "better" than the other or just different (as in sound, ease of use, etc.)?
I think that's too simple, both can be had in many formulations that will determine how hard or soft they end up and how well they adhere to what's underneath.

I'm not sure if this is available for epoxies but one polyester I used had self leveling qualities and as it hardened the skin pulled itself flat, levelling out the brush marks and removing most of the need for sanding.
 
bump from.... what the heck?

Yes, strings wear on even ebony boards. Did you have something to ask or add about epoxy vs polyester? I've been trying to decide lately what to use on some upcoming builds so I am interested in the topic.

And BTW, I think we really want to talk about polyurathane since it is availble in the hardwood stores, where as polyester is hazardous, difficult to use and if I understand correctly mostly only used by professional finish shops and manufactures.
 
Sherwin-Williams makes a two part polyester finish called Polane. I believe, from an article I found, that it is the product Fender uses on its bodies. It is a system with different components that are combined to acheive various colors ( or clear) and sheens.
A Sherwin-Williams Industrial outlet will have information. The local paint store will probably not know what you're talking about.
 
System 3 Mirror Coat is good stuff :hyper: Seems to wear well and was not too tough to apply. Two coats poured on did it for me.

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