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Double Bass EQ For Doublebass Gigs

I think I would like to add something that’s probably obvious to everyone but in case I’ve missed something EQ is IME very dependent on the level of volume when it’s applied. The louder the volume (to a point) I find the less bass I need and the more selective mid range and less treble. Just something I think about. As I’m usually one to set EQ it and as much as possible forget it. What I’ve found is it’s better for me to reach an acceptable EQ and adjust to it rather than “play the amplifier” so I’m “play the bass”. If something a little weird sonically and unexpected happens, I try and wait until the band takes a break, unless it makes the bass unplayable. Just my take.
 
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Funny you should mention that. I'm just back from a quintet rehearsal. Tuned the house bass amp, set my paradriver to where I liked it and was reasonably happy. We started playing a Latin tune and in between takes, I turn down the mids on the paradriver and got it sounding amazing. The next take, I got buried, I couldn't hear pitch or even the rhythmic drive of the noted. Turned them back up a bit and things got a little stringy and then we took another take and it was perfect in the mix.

I'm starting to get this...finally after twiddling with hope and a prayer, I'm starting to get it...a little bit.
 
Cut the eq…not entirely, but less than the noon position.

Depends on how the amp’s designed and how the room reacts. With my original Walter Woods MI-100-8 (and later a MI-400-8)
there were three position EQ switches that worked in tandem with the Bass and Treble controls. In the center position on the switch
they were “normal” but moving the switch to the left cut the bass or treble by 10db. Once those switches were moved left the entire
frequency range effected by those controls was cut way back. They were not set to be flat at 12 noon. I’m not sure whether my
Gallien Krueger 200MB’s we’re either. I believe the GK MBE 150 was different as well. Just my take. FDeck measured the GK 150
at one time to determine just where flat was on the EQ circuit coltrols were. Just my take of course.
 
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I play a regular "Blues Brunch" with drums and electric guitar that has made me realize that I want a different eq for different types of musical, not only acoustic or sound reasons. The guitar player uses very electric and processed tones and a more natural or acoustic bass sound just doesn't match to my ear, so I've been going for a much more electrified sound myself. On a jazz gig this week I'll be as natural sounding as I can, but it will be a very different vibe. I've never been overly MBOL so a certain amount of compromise hasn't bothered me, and adjusting eq for the type of music actually makes me more comfortable. I want to play the DB in as many situations as possible so a tone adjustment is no big deal. It still sounds like a DB, just different.
 
I traded my Paradriver for a Q\ Strip. If nothing else, it's going to help educate me on this.

IMG_20240112_120258635_HDR.jpg
 
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For many years I just turned the knobs, without actually knowing much about EQ. That all changed when I decided to record my bass into Logic Pro (any DAW, really) and insert Logic’s own Channel EQ which is a fully parametric EQ, but also has a graphic view of the entire spectrum, plus a real-time spectrum analyzer that shows the actual frequencies of your recording (pre or post EQ).

View attachment 5058466

Playing around with the frequencies, Q and boost/attenuation on the bass recording, while simultaneously hearing AND seeing how the changes on each band affect the recording, really opened up my understanding of EQ in general, but also for DB in particular. F.ex : a lot of ‘boxiness’ resides around 220Hz (on both DB and slab). Luckily, my Clarus’s Low Mid is centered at exactly 220Hz, so when I play DB I always turn down the Low Mid completely. Piezo quack is usually around 700’ish Hz.

You’ll need to know the specific frequencies the 4 bands on your amp is centered around, to get a better understanding of how your specific amp will react when boosting/attenuating each knob. Maybe try to replicate the 4 EQ bands of your amp in the software EQ, and just play around with to see what each band does to the sound. Having the visual spectrum really helps a lot.

If the suggestion above is possible for you, I’d highly recommend giving it a try. It was very educational for me, and that knowledge has helped me a lot.

Just for reference, here’s a link about the Channel EQ above, which might help (or might confuse)

Understand the Logic Pro X Channel EQ. - Francis BACONNET
Thanks so much for this! I’ve been chasing the “boxiness” sound of an amplified double bass and how to get rid of it for years, and a notch @ 220 hz. tames it!
 
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Thanks so much for this! I’ve been chasing the “boxiness” sound of an amplified double bass and how to get rid of it for years, and a notch @ 220 hz. tames it!

Sorry this is probably TLDR. If your interested, try to get through it.

IMHO the primary "boxy" quality lives in range from approximately 200-400hz.

IMHO, notch filters should be tuned to the most prevalent feedback frequencies...which can vary with the situation and equipment used.

IMHO a single notch filter is totally insufficient. In my experience you can notch between 4 and 6 problem frequencies before you hit the point of diminishing returns. It's best to tune the notch filters each time you set up. Set it and forget it is not optimal.

After notching 4-6 of the most prevalent feedback frequencies, the tone of an upright tends to get a lot more clear and true. However, some gentle broadband tone shaping is also typically required for optimum results. Generally the wider the bandwidth of the filter the less cut you apply.

The corrective EQ I am describing requires a very flexible and powerful EQ. I have had really good results running a 31-band graphic in my amp's Effects Loop. Another option is several bands of fully-parametric EQ. Course, these types of EQ are physically a lot bigger than many of us want in our gig rig. Also many of us don't have interest or possibly the aptitude to learn how to effectively use them.

Background:
Consider the instrument an amalgam of the bass, pickup, amp, cab, spacing between bass and speaker, and room acoustics. I will refer to this as the "system."

The system's frequency response is not flat or true to the bass's response. Also there are a mix of fixed and variable resonances in the system which modify or distort the system's response.

An example of a fixed resonance is the top plate, tail piece, and afterlengths of an upright bass may combine to form a resonance that is below 100hz. The way I usually solve this resonance is by wedging a rolled up towel under the tail piece. To be honest, I haven't had a frequent problem with this resonance. I had to regularly use the towel trick with one bass that I played long ago. I have experienced this problem on two or three other occasions when a feedback loop formed between the bass and subs on a big festival stage. On those occasions, the PA was notched at the offending frequency.

An example of a variable resonance is the complex interaction between the various elements of the system.

I will try to provide a suitable explanation why these resonances vary.


The entire sound spectrum travels at the same speed. In other words, high frequencies and low frequencies travel at exactly the same speed.

Frequency is cycles per second and the amount of time it takes for one cycle to occur is called the period. Period and Frequency are the inverse of each other (Period = 1/Frequency).

Since all frequencies travel at the same speed, each frequency has a different period and each frequency will have a different wavelength. The formula for wavelength is:

Sound Wavelength (λ) = Sound Velocity (V) / Sound Frequency (F)

FYI, Lambda (λ) is used as the symbol for wavelength.
The electrical signal between the pickup and the amp travels at the speed of light. Then the sound travels at the speed of sound back from the speaker to the bass and pickup. The time it takes the sound to travel the distance is called propagation delay.

Caveat: Let's assume the bass, pickup, amp, and cab have the same absolute polarity, meaning the output of the speaker has the same polarity as the source sound created by the bass.

What we are concerned about is the phase angle between the source sound and the sound that has traveled from the speaker back to the bass and pickup. In other words we are looking at the relationship between wavelength and propagation delay.

If the returning signal is perfectly in phase with the source sound we get summation. If the returning signal is out of phase we get cancellation.

Example of how phase angle between two sine waves effects summing :
upload_2023-2-10_13-19-17-png.4964753


Let's summarize some key points and draw a conclusion. Both wavelength and propagation delay determines the resulting phase angle between the original sound of the bass and the sound that has travelled back from the speaker. The resulting peaks and notches are called comb filtering.
upload_2024-6-10_14-4-32.jpeg


Also the amount of propagation delay varies by distance. If you change distance, you also change the propagation delay, and as a result you change which frequencies sum and which frequencies cancel.

Now consider what happens when a peak in the comb filter occurs at the same frequency as a fixed resonance. For example if the bass is 28 feet from the subs and has a fixed resonance at 80hz. The wavelength for 80hz is about 14', so the subs are two wavelengths away from the bass. This means the signal from subs arrives delayed by two wavelengths and in-phase with the source signal from the bass. So a variable 80hz resonance is potentially set up at the same frequency as the 80hz fixed resonance.

You also get potential variable resonances at 40hz, 160hz, 320hz etc. Explanation: The propagation delay over 28' = 1 wavelength at 40hz, 4 wavelengths at 160hz wavelengths, 8 wavelengths at 320hz.

Note, the frequency centers of these potential variable resonances shift if you flip the polarity somewhere in the signal path.

So potential fixes for this problem include, wedging a towel under the tail piece, applying a notch at 80hz, changing the distance between the bass and subs, or flipping the polarity. You may need to use more than one fix.







When energy is put into the system, it teds to excite the resonances and further distort the frequency response. So the sound becomes progressively worse as volume of the amp is turned up. The notches should be tuned to these resonances. The idea is to minimize the energy at each resonance.

After the system resonances are addressed, gentle broad band cuts are used to massage system frequency response so it more closely resembles the natural acoustic response of the bass.
 
Are you still using your Messenger, or just the Q\Strip now? Still waiting on a new bridge for my Shen so the pickup and new strings haven't been installed yet. Very curious about the Q/Strip.

"Messenger?" I'm not sure what you mean.

The QStrip is very good and it really opens my ears. It's trained me somewhat to make better choices with a amp's eq, but not all of them are created equally

I picked up a small cabinet and an AI head and have been trying to go directly to it, but I'm not having the same success with the AI's EQ. I keep meaning to try the strip into the effects return.
 
"Messenger?" I'm not sure what you mean.

The QStrip is very good and it really opens my ears. It's trained me somewhat to make better choices with a amp's eq, but not all of them are created equally

I picked up a small cabinet and an AI head and have been trying to go directly to it, but I'm not having the same success with the AI's EQ. I keep meaning to try the strip into the effects return.

I thought you had a Broughton Messenger pre that you had modded for 4.7 input? I could have totally misunderstood that whole conversation though!
 
Play acoustically in the orbit and amplify on the planet like Desaster Area …

NICE. Deep cut. Hotblack Desiato is honored to be mentioned. Although he won't know for a while because he's spending 2024 dead for tax reasons.
 
I thought you had a Broughton Messenger pre that you had modded for 4.7 input? I could have totally misunderstood that whole conversation though!

Nope, but I did mention that Broughton will mod the input impedance for you and I did consider that pre-amp before the QStrip fell into my lap.

They come standard at 4.7 which seems ideal for Yamahiko pickups