ES-335 bass build

[83_Silberpfeil]

Another few weeks zoomed by. Finally found time to visit the woodshop and work on the bass. The billet I was working with was figured maple @ 1.75" X 9.5" X 42.0". At the woodshop, I was finally give a careful inspection. I was really amazed at the quality of the lumber --- and the 4S4 mill work done by lumber shop. Completely square on all sides/edges. I bought an extra thick billet because I wasn't sure how the mill work would be, so paid a bit more for a thicker billet to make sure I had enough.

So today I cut into two sections of 21.0". Then resaw'd each section into about 7/8 boards --- actually a tad bit thinner than 7/8". I found that as soon s I finished sawing each section on the super awesome Laguna bandsaw --- there as stress released, and each half bowed a bit.

Some jointer work followed by planer got each of the 4 boards back to 4S4. Each board now stands at 0.692" (according to the caliper gauge installed/rig'd onto the planer. This is just a hair thicker than I need. According to my plans I recall I need a top/back thickness of 0.225" and an arch of 0.45" --- so total of 0.675" or 5/8". Just enough for some good sanding/finishing --- and no room for errors from this point. YIKES!!!!

Next week, I'll just give the joining edge some proper sanding then glue each bookmatch half together. Really looking forward to that part. Cannot wait!

In the meantime --- here are some fotos from today's session @ the woodshop...

 

[83_Silberpfeil]

Another few weeks zoomed by. Finally found time to visit the woodshop and work on the bass. The billet I was working with was figured maple @ 1.75" X 9.5" X 42.0". At the woodshop, I was finally give a careful inspection. I was really amazed at the quality of the lumber --- and the 4S4 mill work done by lumber shop. Completely square on all sides/edges. I bought an extra thick billet because I wasn't sure how the mill work would be, so paid a bit more for a thicker billet to make sure I had enough.

So today I cut into two sections of 21.0". Then resaw'd each section into about 7/8 boards --- actually a tad bit thinner than 7/8". I found that as soon s I finished sawing each section on the super awesome Laguna bandsaw --- there as stress released, and each half bowed a bit.

Some jointer work followed by planer got each of the 4 boards back to 4S4. Each board now stands at 0.692" (according to the caliper gauge installed/rig'd onto the planer. This is just a hair thicker than I need. According to my plans I recall I need a top/back thickness of 0.225" and an arch of 0.45" --- so total of 0.675" or 5/8". Just enough for some good sanding/finishing --- and no room for errors from this point. YIKES!!!!

Next week, I'll just give the joining edge some proper sanding then glue each bookmatch half together. Really looking forward to that part. Cannot wait!

In the meantime --- here are some fotos from today's session @ the woodshop...

I think I'll use this one for the top --- except I would rotate it 180 degrees ...

This one for the back...

Overlaying my templates on top of the boards --- some extra room all around is always a good thing!

 

[83_Silberpfeil]

The boards for the top and back are glued. Next up is bending the sides --- been delaying/avoiding that for weeks now. Too afraid to tackle it head on.

 

[83_Silberpfeil]

Questions for the expert builders here as I plan the upcoming steps.

1) This is a sequence question. Do I cut out the f-holes and pick-up openings first, then carve the top? Or vice-versa. NOTE: it is my ambition to use a router to carve the top and back (inside and outside faces).

2) Using a router to carve the top/back --- do I go free-hand using a smaller router? Or would I need a more powerful router and need to use a sled?

As a reference, this build I found from another forum/site --- seems like openings for F hole and pickups were cut out first. The builder doesn't mention if a sled was used or if it was freehand...

Invalid Link Removed

Much thanks!!

 

[83_Silberpfeil]

QUESTION:

Related to my two questions in post #64. Suppose that I carve the top (inside/outside) first.
Then as I overlay the template to mark the outline f-hole and pick-up slots, how does one deal with laying the template on the curved top?

 

[83_Silberpfeil]

Today, I spent a few hours at the woodshop, and knocked out the center block. I think Gibson used mahogany and also either alder or ash for the ES335. I used birch.

It turned out pretty well I must say. Except for one very critical area. See --- I will be fitting this bass with Yamaha vintage BB1200S reverse split P pick-ups. So for the center block, I wanted the where the p/u's go to be wide enough to fit the reverse split p p/u's. The lumber I had available was not wide enough. So, I tried to glue some "wings" to extend the center block wider to fit the p/u's and p/u plate or ring.

Again it all turned out fairly well --- the the joint between the center block and the wings run right under where the screws would go. You can see it in the pix below.

So, I think I'm going to buy a wider piece of lumber and try again. This was a nice practice run.


Here in this foto, you can see that the joint/seem runs right under the screw holes for the p/up ring/plate.

 

[hypercarrots]

Is that a modified Yamaha pickup ring? It has notches for mounting ears that the Yamaha pickups don’t have.

 

[reverendrally]

Wow.... wasn't expecting a P PU. Sure you don't want to go with some HBs?

 

[ColonelZulu]

I guess that’s a lesson learned. I doubt any configuration wouldn’t have similar placement for the screw holes. I hope finding a wider center doesn’t set you back too much.

 

[Matt Liebenau]

If it’s just the mounting screws for the pickup ring you might be all right. Those are typically short screws that will mostly be in the top and they’re not under a lot of stress anyway. If you want to do a new version because the glue joints under there will bother you the entire time you own the bass, I understand that to.

 

[Gary_M]

Yeah, the screws at the joint lines wont hurt a thing assuming that the ears are well glued. Like Matt said, the screws will mostly be in the top anyway. Looks good, keep it going!

 

[83_Silberpfeil]

Thanks reaffirming Matt's comment, and the encouragement. First time builder here, so learning as I go.

Yeah, the screws at the joint lines wont hurt a thing assuming that the ears are well glued. Like Matt said, the screws will mostly be in the top anyway. Looks good, keep it going!

 

[JoeDeF]

…the the joint between the center block and the wings run right under where the screws would go. You can see it in the pix below.

So, I think I'm going to buy a wider piece of lumber and try again.

I think you'll be OK as is, as others have said. Though a screw is in effect a tapered wedge, and I can see how you would be concerned about that wedging action occurring right at the glue joint, in reality the screw and the force will be small. But, if it bothers you, you could:

Leave it for now and continue on with your build. When you have the neck/strings/bridge mounted in their final position, mark the pickup and pickup ring and pickup ring screw hole position carefully. Then, drill out the screw holes (just as deep as your screw will need to go) with, say, a 1/4" flat bottomed bit, and glue in plugs (plugs, with the grain running perpendicular to the run of the plug; not dowels). Trim the plugs flush. The pickup screws will go right in the middle of the plugs (after you re-mark them using the pickup/rings and drill pilot holes), and the pickup ring will hide the plugs. The plugs may (practically imperceptibly) strengthen the assembly compared to the glued-up pieces you have now (they sort of act as a spline).

Edit: I forgot you had a top; with the top, this procedure is totally unnecessary (the top will do most of the holding of the pickup ring screws, and the top also acts as a bridge across your center block wings). But I'll leave my post up just as an example of how to solve similar problems if they arise in the future; plugs are handy.

 

[83_Silberpfeil]

@JoeDeF - thanks for the detailed instruction on the remedy. Certainly makes sense that the top would take most of the holding load.

I think you'll be OK as is, as others have said. Though a screw is in effect a tapered wedge, and I can see how you would be concerned about that wedging action occurring right at the glue joint, in reality the screw and the force will be small. But, if it bothers you, you could:

Leave it for now and continue on with your build. When you have the neck/strings/bridge mounted in their final position, mark the pickup and pickup ring and pickup ring screw hole position carefully. Then, drill out the screw holes (just as deep as your screw will need to go) with, say, a 1/4" flat bottomed bit, and glue in plugs (plugs, with the grain running perpendicular to the run of the plug; not dowels). Trim the plugs flush. The pickup screws will go right in the middle of the plugs (after you re-mark them using the pickup/rings and drill pilot holes), and the pickup ring will hide the plugs. The plugs may (practically imperceptibly) strengthen the assembly compared to the glued-up pieces you have now (they sort of act as a spline).

Edit: I forgot you had a top; with the top, this procedure is totally unnecessary (the top will do most of the holding of the pickup ring screws, and the top also acts as a bridge across your center block wings). But I'll leave my post up just as an example of how to solve similar problems if they arise in the future; plugs are handy.

 

[83_Silberpfeil]

Wow, almost 3 months have passed since last update on this build. Spent a good 6 weeks (weekends) building that workbench.

This is first project completed on the new workbench --- will be using this contraption to bend the sides of my ES335-type 4 string full scale bass. Saw someone use similar device on youtube. Sides are ~ 0.1" thick may be 1/8" on the thick spots.

 

[83_Silberpfeil]

Built this contraption/jig to soak the sides in water overnight. The guy in the youtube video below used the bathtub. I think my contraption uses less water --- conservation! . 2-inch PVC with rubber cap.

 

[Scoops]

Questions for the expert builders here as I plan the upcoming steps.

1) This is a sequence question. Do I cut out the f-holes and pick-up openings first, then carve the top? Or vice-versa. NOTE: it is my ambition to use a router to carve the top and back (inside and outside faces).

2) Using a router to carve the top/back --- do I go free-hand using a smaller router? Or would I need a more powerful router and need to use a sled?

As a reference, this build I found from another forum/site --- seems like openings for F hole and pickups were cut out first. The builder doesn't mention if a sled was used or if it was freehand...

Invalid Link Removed

Much thanks!!

I've developed a sequence, but I'm not sure if it would fit your situation

My process is driven by the neck pocket. I have a template that I built that has a 3 degree slope built in. I need an uncraved top to mount the template. Same is true for the Fholes and the Pups.

I'll be using the same laminate router to carve the top.

Cheers

 

[83_Silberpfeil]

Thanks @Scoops for looking back at my past post and addressing this. I'm still debating what sequence/process I should take --- at least for the "outer-facing" surfaces. The inside-facing surfaces I'll likely carve first (with trim router).

Certainly, having a flat surface makes cutting the F-holes, bridge, and pick-up openings much easier, and more precise/accurate. I'll keep an eye on how yours turn out.

I've developed a sequence, but I'm not sure if it would fit your situation

My process is driven by the neck pocket. I have a template that I built that has a 3 degree slope built in. I need an uncraved top to mount the template. Same is true for the Fholes and the Pups.

I'll be using the same laminate router to carve the top.

Cheers

 

[83_Silberpfeil]

So, I gave it a go and tested out the new side-bending contraption. I used a test strip of maple (same material from same stock as the future actual side). This test strip was 1.25" high, but only ~ 0.08" thick. I soaked it in water (see post #76) for a few hrs. The actual/real side will be a bit thicker somewhere between 0.1" and 0.125" thick. For that I will soak for 24 hrs.

First in the test run was to prep the template with notches and holes to facilitate proper tying/securing of the bent side with strings.

Then, I "mapped-out" the curvatures of the sides onto a straight/linear scale. This lessens the guesswork on where to apply heat and bend the sides.

Here I show the result of the first bending --- at the "cut-out" before the horn. Seemed fairly straightforward. Kept a bucket of water on the side to re-wet the side, after a few seconds on the hot pipe. I wish I had fotos of the actual bending process to share -- but did not have assistant or extra pair of hands to help.

Here I show the second curve, the 'horn'. This one I was most nervous about. But again, fairly straightforward. I'm applying a little bit of pressure w my finger to secure the side to the template (at the first curve). Strings should easily provide enough pulling to keep the side in form.

Overall this test run was very confidence inspiring - very please with the learnings I got out of it.

The trickiest part was to keep the torch at an optimal distance from the pipe --- too close, and flame dies out, lack of O2. NOTE, rolled up a ball of aluminum foil to plug the open end of the pipe --- to retain heat. So, O2 starvation if torch is inserted to close, far into pipe. On the other hand, place the torch to far away from pipe, then heat is not being applied to pipe, and flame chars the plywood. A few times when the flame died out, I would just shut off the torch valve and continue w bending until the pipe cooled off.

Hope this is helpful for anyone who is looking to do similar build.

 

[jamro217]

First time builder? Very impressive undertaking. Watching your progress intently. Thanks. You can call it a custom based on a Gibson EB-2L / Epiphone Rivoli. (If there was such a thing, most were shorties. The closest thing was the Gibson Midtown with a 34" scale, but the body was smaller.)