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EUB project
- Thread starter JIO
- Start date
Hopkins
Commercial User
@JIO, this is my favorite build that you have done so far. Your out of the box design is absolutely perfect for this build.
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,614
- 222,137
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,614
- 222,137
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
I don't want to start a thread in pu's & electronics section, and first tried searching there for this question to no avail… but can anyone answer this - a standard P pu is usually staggered one atop the other w/overlapping center sections. Would it work if they were side by side? (not overlapping- 2 strings over each unit). On that same tact, what if there were 2 sets (we're talking the smaller Bullet P pu's) with one pu unit per string (like this Aria example pic). I'm guessing for the 4 unit/2 pu example you'd have to link them electronically as one pu. (as compared to a separate V for E-A/D-G strings) I don't think I'll have room for a set-up like this being tighter string spacing anyway, so the question is more about using one Bullet P-pu.
It seems many of the 4-string cigar box magnetic pickups are 6 strings with fewer pole pieces, but the 3-string one are often much smaller bobbins and wouldn't represent an overly long aperture of string length if mounted sideway like that. Might need to trim the housings down. Since you have an even number of strings, if you could swap the magnets / turn the coils over, you could get a humbucking picup.
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,614
- 222,137
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- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
These look very interesting - I think the HC (hand crafted) series would be ideal. I could create a base (of the maple) that follows the fb arch and drill holes to mount each of the 4 units. Way preferable as far as integrated design and it costs about the same as the Bullet P-pu. And sonically it sounds like it would be the best way to amplify this instrument. Thanks for sending!
Last edited:
Hopkins
Commercial User
If you went with 4 individual pickups, one for each string, you would have 4 different wiring options. You could wire them all in series, all in parallel, two pair in series then each pair in parallel, or two pair in parallel then wired together in series. Each would give you a different resistance, output, and would move the frequency spectrum around.
As far as the pickup goes, they would work fine without overlapping.
As far as the pickup goes, they would work fine without overlapping.
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,614
- 222,137
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
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I think nesting the P/U's in the ambrosia and then capping them with a plate is the perfect solution.
Have you considered hand painting the alu black with Testor's or something?
I'm not a huge fan of mixing metals. Since the Butt plate and End plate are brass and beautiful, and the alu is matte and dull, I think painting the alu satin black would tie in the binding.
Have you considered hand painting the alu black with Testor's or something?
I'm not a huge fan of mixing metals. Since the Butt plate and End plate are brass and beautiful, and the alu is matte and dull, I think painting the alu satin black would tie in the binding.
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,614
- 222,137
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
It's a consideration - I could easily spray matte black over the aluminum bits.
I think that you should consider using your "slotted body" style of fitment for the p/u housing.
Since there will be no compression from string contact, maybe a modicum of velcro concealed under the fingerboard between the maple and the ebony.
It will leave the ambrosia figure completely clean from fingerboard to bridge.
So much more elegant than the bent alu feet and Phillips head screws in the drawing.
Since there will be no compression from string contact, maybe a modicum of velcro concealed under the fingerboard between the maple and the ebony.
It will leave the ambrosia figure completely clean from fingerboard to bridge.
So much more elegant than the bent alu feet and Phillips head screws in the drawing.
@JIO I know you are already moving in a different direction, but I modified a musicmaster bass with two sets of mustang pickups side by side because I was looking for a "huge" sound. Hey, I was 20. <shrug> It basically didn't do what I wanted because it sounded nearly identical to a mustang bass, but I didn't notice any extra string pull issues and there were no aperture problems that I recall. I didn't do all the switching options @Hopkins mentioned but I wish I had... 
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,614
- 222,137
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- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
I considered such and as of now nothing is ruled out. Velcro seems less stable, but the cello fb is scalloped underneath which I could epoxy a 'floating' support system to.
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,614
- 222,137
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
@JIO I know you are already moving in a different direction, but I modified a musicmaster bass with two sets of mustang pickups side by side because I was looking for a "huge" sound. Hey, I was 20. <shrug> It basically didn't do what I wanted because it sounded nearly identical to a mustang bass, but I didn't notice any extra string pull issues and there were no aperture problems that I recall. I didn't do all the switching options @Hopkins mentioned but I wish I had...
Thanks for you insights Beej - I think the small single posts are the solution. It would be interesting to do as Hopkins presented for a variety of tone options.
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,614
- 222,137
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
There will probably be very little in the way of force to work the alu plate out if you make it as snug as your bridge fitting.
I was thinking the velcro would mainly be to snug it up and dampen any vibration. Concealing a little flange under the FB is a good idea.
I wouldn't glue the p/u housing to the end of the FB. However you fit it, it needs to easily come apart. Pick ups are screw mounted for a reason
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,614
- 222,137
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
There will probably be very little in the way of force to work the alu plate out if you make it as snug as your bridge fitting.
I was thinking the velcro would mainly be to snug it up and dampen any vibration. Concealing a little flange under the FB is a good idea.
I wouldn't glue the p/u housing to the end of the FB. However you fit it, it needs to easily come apart. Pick ups are screw mounted for a reason
Yes, what I alluded to is a support system 'tongue' which would be epoxied to the underside of the fb overhang, and a screw-in/on pu unit attached to that. I agree w/you that keeping the body spalting clean/unobstructed is a good call so this is probably the tact I'll explore. I'm enjoying the problem-solving aspect of this build because I'm creating something from the ground up. I love coming up with solutions - but I also really appreciate everyones input as it's always another way to think about getting there. I'll have to wait until the Ubertar Hexaphonic HC individual string pu's get here before going any further. Meanwhile, I did more work on the hs scroll and need this and that resolved after having it assembled.
