EUB project

[BassHappy]

from @BassHappy's post -
Only available on an OEM basis, not for sale to the general public:

Hey JIO

Yes, you need to submit an OEM application with EMG as a builder. If you pass the test on their paper, they will either sell them direct or else point you to a dealer who will (once you are cleared).

And yes, due to the size you almost always have to stagger them. I love what Blast Cult did by making the adjustable mounts:

 

[JIO]

Spent some time filing the nut and bridge - it's pretty close, playable - but is still a bit high. Sounds good acoustically w/my temple resting on the hs. Bridge is holding up well and once tuned it stays there. Pretty cool. The string length is 99% good (still shows wrap) other than the G-string, which doesn't. (as in, usually the G -string has the longest way to it's tuner-pole)

 

[JIO]

 

[charlie monroe]

I saw what you did there

 

[T_Bone_TL]

The string length is 99% good (still shows wrap) other than the G-string, which doesn't. (as in, usually the G -string has the longest way to it's tuner-pole)

Only on a 4-in-line. Speaking as a 2x2 owner...

 

[JIO]

Only on a 4-in-line. Speaking as a 2x2 owner...

I might order a single in that type in the shorter scale if I can for that G-string. The rest are perfect.

 

[JIO]

After being strung-up now for a day - I noticed my composite bridge is 'leaning' toward the neck a bit. The steep angle of flat-wound strings into the body is subjecting substantial force on it. It also has to do with my bridge slot which has a bit too much of play. Things to observe/study and address.

 

[Hopkins]

That is one reason I absolutely cannot abide silks, you would think that a string manufacturer would be smart enough to start the silk winding at the same distance from the ball end on every string so they line up straight across on the head stock. For some reason they are always off. It sends my OCD for symmetry into high gear, so any strings with silks are a deal breaker for me.

 

[swarfrat]

It's not the steepness of the angle but the difference in angle from front to back. As I see it, you basically have a couple choices.
1) Get the tailpiece up to the height that the angle will equal.
2) Modify your aluminum piece with some webbing to resist the torque.
3) Put some really big feet on the bridge (variation of #2).

Were you not this far along, ordinary bass guitar bridges up at the appropriate bridge height would have also worked. I may use my single string bridges sitting in a drawer for mine.

 

[Jisch]

That is one reason I absolutely cannot abide silks, you would think that a string manufacturer would be smart enough to start the silk winding at the same distance from the ball end on every string so they line up straight across on the head stock. For some reason they are always off. It sends my OCD for symmetry into high gear, so any strings with silks are a deal breaker for me.

Or worse - when the silk on the B string falls onto the nut! I had to pull the silk back on a set, the metal under the silk is much more shiny than the rest of the strings. Makes me insane every time I see it.

 

[JIO]

It's not the steepness of the angle but the difference in angle from front to back. As I see it, you basically have a couple choices.
1) Get the tailpiece up to the height that the angle will equal.
2) Modify your aluminum piece with some webbing to resist the torque.
3) Put some really big feet on the bridge (variation of #2).

Were you not this far along, ordinary bass guitar bridges up at the appropriate bridge height would have also worked. I may use my single string bridges sitting in a drawer for mine.

I'm going to observe it for now and as long as it doesn't angle further - Id be tempted to leave as is. It's not dramatically angled - just leaning.

 

[JIO]

That is one reason I absolutely cannot abide silks, you would think that a string manufacturer would be smart enough to start the silk winding at the same distance from the ball end on every string so they line up straight across on the head stock. For some reason they are always off. It sends my OCD for symmetry into high gear, so any strings with silks are a deal breaker for me.

I have some ideas to resolve that issue on this bass...

 

[Hopkins]

I have some ideas to resolve that issue on this bass...

Strings with no silk? lol

 

[JIO]

Strings with no silk? lol

another idea

 

[swarfrat]

Yeah. In this case symmetry would mean insufficient break angleoverthe bridge. I think you may be right. the apparent looseness of that slot seems like it could account for the angle.

One of my brain farts that will likely never get built is a floating top, with an offset spar inside the body to counteract string torque. An actual driven spruce top that does little acousticly, but let's you put the piezo pickup under the bridge plate/on a vibrating top, rather than on/under saddle.

 

[JIO]

Late night no-flash grainy pics of some experimentation… I remembered I had an ancient Barcus Berry upright contact pu (2 AAA batteries) and when I opened it I found ancient leaked batters still inside. As a chronic fixer-upper, I removed the batteries, cleaned off the corrosion and with a soldering iron, solder and copper tape - got it working again! I luckily had 2 AAA batteries in the freezer and rubber-banded the unit to the end section. It worked but needed much amp volume to get an audible sound. Good enough for now as I played it a bit through the amp - it was fun but I still need to fine-tune the action lower. At this point, it may be more of a slight neck platform wedge to raise the fb at the butt side.

 

[JIO]

I inserted the thinnest of slice of maple at the butt end of the neck joint and it brought the strings lower, but w/buzzing at the upper fb. So, the bridge height as it was is pretty much there. I have a bit more I can file from the nut and then that's it. It'll be a good left-hand strength builder! Also inserted a very thin maple wedge on the neck-side of the bridge slot and it trimmed it nicely.

 

[swarfrat]

Can you sand some fall away into the fingerboard to allow the action to go lower?

 

[JIO]

Can you sand some fall away into the fingerboard to allow the action to go lower?

I want to lower the string at the nut a bit more and I think that will be that. What I'm trying to achieve is the correct height for both pizzicato and legato. The strings, especially the E needs space to vibrate when both plucked and bowed. I feel I'm very close, and like I said - as being someone who sets my solid body electric basses with fairly low action - this is a different animal and I will conform to it's perimeters.

Once I file the nut-slots a bit more, I will wait until the pu's arrive and design & fabricate a carrier for them. Not sure which tact to take as they are both good solutions. (platform from the fb vs floating platform w/magnetic position variables)

 

[JIO]

Well… this is what $110 gets you. I hope it delivers - the size is what I expected and will be eay to work into the needed platform design for them. Workmanship is basic - no frills involved and this is the 'packaging'. I guess if it were me, I'd go a bit further in the 'final product' finishing dept and most likely a bit of boxing presentation. No time lately to work on it - will save it for the next bit of sunshine between projects.