• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Euphonic Audio

#61
chadds said:
Days after I sold but hadn't shipped my iAMP 800 I discovered that really cranking the pre gain like to 12 even 3 o'clock brought out a warmth and response that I didn't know it had. Linear/audio taper pots. More you crank more you get.:)
Click to expand...

I've had the iAMP800 for several years and never tried cranking the pre gain up until today. I maxed it out and you're right, the sound stays clean and undistorted. So why does the amp have limiter lights on the pre-amp gain if it doesn't distort when they're all lit up?
 
#62
Here's the micro 300/wizzy 10 in action from last night. Nothing in the PA. P with flats. Amp is max gain, max master, basically flat eq. I think I piddled with it and ended up about flat. The bass volume is about 3/4. About 100 people at a little fundraiser dinner. Edit: FWIW, the cab is sitting on a 1x12 cab I didn't use, about a foot off the floor.

Filmed with my wife's digital camera, so it's not high quality but you can tell that the little cab is keeping up in this situation.

Viewer warning: Old drunk white people dancing.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I3Ki2iXN7tA

I put the little a capella bit at the end to show what an in the pocket snapper I am.
 
#63
i have one of the older ea cabs 2-10 w 2 4 inch speakers and 1 inch tweeter. it's been one of my favorite cabs, can handle alot of power for a 2-10. i get good midrange tone out of it but i'm a midrange freak so that works for my application. it's multi functional also, used it for vocals, studio monitor and bass. it is a good cab for small to medium rooms or to compliment a 15 cab etc. i had the iamp 800 and it's ok but traded it in and i use a 1974 ampeg v4b which has awesome tone and power.
 
#64
Dudaronamous said:
I've had the iAMP800 for several years and never tried cranking the pre gain up until today. I maxed it out and you're right, the sound stays clean and undistorted. So why does the amp have limiter lights on the pre-amp gain if it doesn't distort when they're all lit up?
Click to expand...

I have the same question. Is seeing the limiter light on the whole time a bad thing if there is no audible distortion??
 
#65
can you hear me said:
I have the same question. Is seeing the limiter light on the whole time a bad thing if there is no audible distortion??
Click to expand...

I always got the best results running the input so that it lit up the top most red lights only occasionally on my loudest notes. If you dime it into the red on every note, you will get some distortion (but it take a hot bass with a lot out output to do this). Think of the iAMP preamp section as a studio recording strip. You want to dial in a good strong signal, first (but keep it out of clipping), EQ only as needed, and then bring up the master to the desired final level.
 
#67
nutdog said:
Wow dude I feel like an idiot. I don't have a manual and can't find one on the EA site but the back of the amp says min load = 2 ohms. Looks like I might be in the market for another whizzy 10.

Thanx.
Click to expand...

Nutdog,

I've got the 300 and a Wizzy 10 as well. Great stuff. EA's website, not so great. Though after the revamp the site looks better, it still isn't updated enough with important info, like a PDF of the Micro 300 Manual.

So, even though it's against the Geneviva LasVegas Convention (cats vs dogs etc) this cat will toss you a bone. Here you go:
Invalid Link Removed

You may be a canine, but you play bass and have cool taste in gear so you can't be an all bad dog.

Yeowl,
FF
 
#68
Hey Tom and Frankie

I'm talking about the input clip light on the iAmp pro, which I think is a yellow-ish color, not the red clip light on the output.

I didn't light the red one at all I don't think, but the yellow was on a lot, but I needed to push the input gain relatively hard to get the volume I was looking for. I could honestly see my self running this thing on almost full gain and full master, but the tone is really as "clear" as everyone say it is, and I found it had a nice fullness in the bottom compared to the iAmp micro which I had for a bit recently(and loved).


The local distributor here in Aus is an absolutely fantastic guy and I will be able to trial the pro at some gigs I've got coming up. Looking at it as a light-weight and/or back-up head as an alternative to a bigger Mesa, GK or similar head, with different tone, less volume but brilliant and unique in its own right.

Thanks

Phil
 
#70
can you hear me said:
Hey Tom and Frankie

I'm talking about the input clip light on the iAmp pro, which I think is a yellow-ish color, not the red clip light on the output.
Click to expand...


I'm pretty sure not much has changed in that input stage from even the very early versions... That's not actually where the limiter is. The limiter is situated at the power amp and prevents severe transients from getting to the power stage.

The yellow light is just you hammering away at the input stage. There's a chip right at the jacks (might even still be on its own daughter-board inside) that takes the signal in and amps it, buffers it before it heads to the rest of the preamp. It wont break anything but you may hit some nasty clipping if you pound hard enough.

What used to fry that was static. The 600, 350 and even the 200 I believe was very easy to toast if you liked to play your bass in your socks on deep pile carpeting... ;-)
 
#71
Feral Feline said:
Nutdog,

I've got the 300 and a Wizzy 10 as well. Great stuff. EA's website, not so great. Though after the revamp the site looks better, it still isn't updated enough with important info, like a PDF of the Micro 300 Manual.

So, even though it's against the Geneviva LasVegas Convention (cats vs dogs etc) this cat will toss you a bone. Here you go:
Invalid Link Removed

You may be a canine, but you play bass and have cool taste in gear so you can't be an all bad dog.

Yeowl,
FF
Click to expand...

You are very kind. I'm wagging my tail. If you were here I would lick you and sniff your...maybe this cat/dog thing has gone too far.

Thanks! :D
 
#72
frankie5string said:
I'm pretty sure not much has changed in that input stage from even the very early versions... That's not actually where the limiter is. The limiter is situated at the power amp and prevents severe transients from getting to the power stage.

The yellow light is just you hammering away at the input stage. There's a chip right at the jacks (might even still be on its own daughter-board inside) that takes the signal in and amps it, buffers it before it heads to the rest of the preamp. It wont break anything but you may hit some nasty clipping if you pound hard enough.

What used to fry that was static. The 600, 350 and even the 200 I believe was very easy to toast if you liked to play your bass in your socks on deep pile carpeting... ;-)
Click to expand...

Thanks mate

That clears it up.

For those who are interested I do pound my bass pretty hard and it has a very hot output. While I got the yellow light when playing the pro in a loud demo (not band) environment, and with the micro when playing it in loud bands through a couple of different cabs at different times , there was 0 audible clipping, so I wasn't reaching the point that Frankie was talking about, even on the micro.

If I can't reach that point with my LEJ, low-ish action and angry fingers then it is not an easy point to reach imo.

For the record, I hate lights that don't mean "danger!!" Too many amp designs incorporate these, I don't think I'm alone based on what I've read here when people talk about some other amps that have a similar LED. However, maybe I am just weird.
 
#74
This is from the micro 300 manual (just got from feline):

Level Indicator Yellow LED: The Level Indicator LED is a visual representation of your input level. This yellow LED should illuminate brightly under normal playing conditions.
Click to expand...

Using the Gain Knobs and Input Trim Pots: The yellow LED (for each channel) should illuminate brightly under normal playing conditions with the gain knob about half way up. We also suggest that the volume control on your instrument be set near maximum for better signal transfer from your instrument.
Click to expand...

If you want a “dirtier” overdriven-type sound, it is best to use an effects device through
the Effects loop.
Click to expand...

May not be the same for yours.
 
#75
peterpalmieri said:
Just because you don't hear anything that doesn't mean the light isn't doing it's job. If our ears always were able to detect the slightest amount of clipping there would be no need for a light.

Sent from my iPad using TalkBass
Click to expand...


My original comment is me saying "I wish the light meant danger" so I'd know to back off, you've read it as something else I think. The yellow light does not mean "danger", whether there is a negligible bit of clipping or not.

I get what you're saying about hearing, I think a lot less of my hearing ability than you do;) From what Nutdog has posted, if the input stage is the same as the older amps the yellow light does not necessarily mean clipping anyway
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back