anyone have approx inside dimension of the 412 v-4 cab
have a different 412 cab and was likin this idea
have a 410 sealed cab may want to fabricate a 212 (&/or both) to pair with..
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have a different 412 cab and was likin this idea
have a 410 sealed cab may want to fabricate a 212 (&/or both) to pair with..
I don't remember off hand, but it is a little less than 1cu ft per speaker. I think it was 10.5 inches from the inside of the baffle to the back.. the main thing about that v4 cab is that it is braced already. Also, it isn't a big square like most guitar cabs.
OK, so It’s been a while and I have put some hours on these speakers.. I am very happy with them. I get so many compliments from other bass players and random people. I have not done anything else to it other than what was posted here. Still running 4 in a sealed V4 cab with a mattress pad in it. The only complaint I have is that it rattles the tubes in my amp so I have to put something between them... last gig I used a guitarists pedal board case.
Someone suggested I install ribs along the inside of the top of the cab.. does anyone know how that works or have any other suggestions?
Someone suggested I install ribs along the inside of the top of the cab.. does anyone know how that works or have any other suggestions?
So........
I have searched the interwebs over and over and have seen a few people in threads here reference "straightening out the cab" and "fix it at the source, brace the cab" when people ask about head vibrations, but no one has anything specific to add. internet search for bass cabinets returns nothing but car stereo and sub cabinets.. I don't want to stiffen the hell out of this cab.. I am not looking for audiophile clarity, just less vibrating on top. I have had to pull the chassis and tighten the spade lugs on the 300T twice now due to what sounds like microphonic tube crackling, but isn't. I am about to just remove them and solder directly to the board.. but still the vibrating is not cool mechanically...
Does anyone here have any specific suggestions to add bracing to reduce the vibrations on the top? this is a monster rig..
I have searched the interwebs over and over and have seen a few people in threads here reference "straightening out the cab" and "fix it at the source, brace the cab" when people ask about head vibrations, but no one has anything specific to add. internet search for bass cabinets returns nothing but car stereo and sub cabinets.. I don't want to stiffen the hell out of this cab.. I am not looking for audiophile clarity, just less vibrating on top. I have had to pull the chassis and tighten the spade lugs on the 300T twice now due to what sounds like microphonic tube crackling, but isn't. I am about to just remove them and solder directly to the board.. but still the vibrating is not cool mechanically...
Does anyone here have any specific suggestions to add bracing to reduce the vibrations on the top? this is a monster rig..
Hey PawleeP,
Sorry, I missed this commentback in February. I don’t forum much these days without selfish intentions.. I forgot the actual measurements, but I remember estimating it at just a wee bit under a cuft per speaker once the bracing and speaker volume were considered.. sorry this info is so late, I’m sure you have moved on.
- Apr 18, 2008
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You do if you want all of your watts producing noise, instead of flexing cab panels.
Exactly. Best case you’re wasting watts, worst case you’re damaging your head.
A few dowels, cut to exact length, running top to bottom.
Like this: Internal Cabinet Bracing Question
How’s the V4 doing? I have one on the way myself. This thread has made me consider the 16 ohm 12PR310 for it. If I go that route, I’ll post a review here.
So the 12PR300 doesn’t model as well @kringle77? In what way? I have been following your saga of the sealed cabinets for a while, by the way... This will be my first sealed cab.
So the 12PR300 doesn’t model as well @kringle77? In what way? I have been following your saga of the sealed cabinets for a while, by the way... This will be my first sealed cab.
The 412 i have is an old peavey sealed cab (for guitar i suppose) came with scorpions that need new foam in the motor vent holes..
If anyone is interested... Got my V4 cab in. It has the original 1975 Eminence speakers in it. Man, this thing sounds sweet.
I’m running my SVT-7 PRO into it, not turned up all the way of course. Running some heavy compression to tame transients, and have my bass knob (40Hz) dialed way back, as I’ve been doing lately anyway. I am surprised how strong this thing sounds. We’ll see how it does in the band mix, but right now, if these speakers give out I may just replace them with more guitar speakers (Eminece Legend 1258 are often recommended).
I hear guitar speakers are made to distort easily. I’m not exactly familiar with what guitar speaker breakup sounds like, but whatever is coming out of these speakers sounds quite clear, and great.
I may get some “real” bass speakers at some point, to A/B against the guitar speakers. While I’ll gain low end capability, the current speakers sound so good I suspect I may lose some guitar speaker voodoo mojo.
I’m running my SVT-7 PRO into it, not turned up all the way of course. Running some heavy compression to tame transients, and have my bass knob (40Hz) dialed way back, as I’ve been doing lately anyway. I am surprised how strong this thing sounds. We’ll see how it does in the band mix, but right now, if these speakers give out I may just replace them with more guitar speakers (Eminece Legend 1258 are often recommended).
I hear guitar speakers are made to distort easily. I’m not exactly familiar with what guitar speaker breakup sounds like, but whatever is coming out of these speakers sounds quite clear, and great.
I may get some “real” bass speakers at some point, to A/B against the guitar speakers. While I’ll gain low end capability, the current speakers sound so good I suspect I may lose some guitar speaker voodoo mojo.
Its a 6-string cab which means the cab was designed for 6-string application.
It may happen that the loaded drivers don't handle (high excursion) bass guitar demands save over time and you may claim damaged speakers over time.
sorry to say but that's a very save bet to damage 6-string application designed loudspeakers/cabinets.
Very likely these sound "very sweet" at moderate loudness level needs
Did you really figure the peak level voltage at the output terminals of your amplifier?
Perceived loudness tells nothing about the voltage peak levels which may push a loudspeaker into "transient" short burst overexcursion.
You are doing quite the opposite. Compressoion gains sub harmonic transients.
Honestly (sorry to say) but lots of arm chair engineers think they could protect loudspeakers with compressor tools. In real practice the loudpeaker will be more harmed the more "compression" was "digged in" to the sound.
At least ONE good idea just not to "damage" the drivers
Likely as long as there is no demands for rehearsal or "on stage" loudness level needs.
Its never a good idea to use 6-string loudspeakers for bass guitar application cause these may be damaged easily in practice whenever there was need for decent loudness and/or lowisch tunings
In first place they are designed to reinforce distorted sounds from amplifiers
Partial cone resonance is one factor rather than "break up".
Likely as long as the 6-string speakers work still "well" as long as these don't suffer on damaged properties caused by abuse with the bass guitar.
You should stop damage 6-string speakers at once.
There is really no need for any voodoo mojo
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Do you ask for the V9 cabinet?
If I'd do any recommendations for bass guitar application I'd have to know the internal volume and port dimensions
Unfortunatelly for bass guitar application there are only a few drivers available which will do a good job in a sealed cabinet.
@kringle77 did decent experiments with different drivers for his svt 810 cab which is a sealed cabinet similar to the V4.
I think he has got more practical "experinece" rather than me with suitable drivers for a sealed cabinet.
Tell him your sound goals and I'm sure he might give you a proper recommendation what is best for your personal sound needs.
edit, btw,
sealed cabs don't benefit from a port which helps to keep cone excusion small.
Anyway I don't think it was at all possible to choose apropriate drivers for a sealed 410 cab but robust enough to cope with the enormously watts of your svt 7 pro amplifier.
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that's cool if they make 16ohm 12's for sealed.. may get me 4 one day!
thanx for the info, p
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