Work started on cutting the neck and head profile. The extra length of channel I stupidly routed for the truss rod has been filled with a strip of rosewood left over from trimming the Ricky fingerboard to size.
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Fanned 5
- Thread starter Al Heeley
- Start date
SDB Guitars
Commercial User
Some stuff arrived today, here's an impatient mockup to check proportions and ctrl spacing.
I know its just a mockup. But, make sure you get the bridge saddles in the right place. They should be more angled (in relation to each other) than the angle of the 24th fret. You probly know this, but it's worth mentioning just in case of an oversight.
Also, as a Dingwall player, I'd put the dots on the treble side of the fretboard. That's where we have the most trouble landing on the correct fret, as the side dots don't line up well with the treble side of the fret pacement.
It's looking good!
BurningSkies
CRAZY BALDHEAD
- Feb 20, 2005
- 27,956
- 20,348
- Disclosures
- Endorsing artist: Dingwall Guitars
Or better yet, keep the dots above the 12 to the treble side, and put the others wherever you want.
Also, it looks like that neck placement is pretty far back into the body?
Also, it looks like that neck placement is pretty far back into the body?
Thx guys,
Yes the neck isn't really that far into the body, the pickup is preventing the template from blowing waya!
No the bridge slant is actually more than that, as you say, on my template a little more angled than F24.
Thanks Jadi, I wondered why they put the dots on the opposite side, I thought it was maybe just design aesthetics, though not sure how wierd it would look to have dots below F12 on the bass side and dots above F12 on the treble side.
Yes the neck isn't really that far into the body, the pickup is preventing the template from blowing waya!
No the bridge slant is actually more than that, as you say, on my template a little more angled than F24.
Thanks Jadi, I wondered why they put the dots on the opposite side, I thought it was maybe just design aesthetics, though not sure how wierd it would look to have dots below F12 on the bass side and dots above F12 on the treble side.
Sheldon has plenty of pics of Dingwalls with the dots on the treble side, on his site.
Unfortunately, my Dingwalls don't have dots. I'm gonna have them placed at the 15th, 17th, 19th, 21st, and maybe the 24th--treble side. The frets are close to normal (parrallel fret) slant at the 12th, and I don't need dots below that.
Trust me, for playability, you don't wanna put them on the bass side.
Today's work on the neck. Virtually all carved out with drill and sanding disks, which is a first for me (though this is only my third neck built from scratch).
I must say the results achieved so far are far more pleasing than the first 2 necks, and about 90% faster and easier.
I must say the results achieved so far are far more pleasing than the first 2 necks, and about 90% faster and easier.
Yes I contacted them about a year ago. They told me, it's expired, do as you please.
Body routed for neck and MM pickup.
Can anyone suggest a neat method of getting the dog-ear semicircles nicely cut into the wood, where the pickup fixing screws go?
Can anyone suggest a neat method of getting the dog-ear semicircles nicely cut into the wood, where the pickup fixing screws go?
I'd probably use a forstner bit of the right size. Just glue in a couple of stub pieces of wood in the appropriate areas so that you can have a center point for the forstner bit to dig into, and drill it. Would have been simpler if the pickup route hadn't already been done.
Body routed for neck and MM pickup.
Can anyone suggest a neat method of getting the dog-ear semicircles nicely cut into the wood, where the pickup fixing screws go?
Interesting pup placement. Seems very far forward for a MM pup, sorta in the P bass pup position. Should sound very warm and deep.
yeah, a forstner bit would work great, but if I were you I wouldn't do that directly on the wood, but rather make a template, use the forstner bit to remove most of the waste close to the line (about 1/16") and then clean it all up with a 1/2" pattern bit. The dog ears have a 1/2" diam.
SDB Guitars
Commercial User
+1 that's the easiest way, IMO... of course, I've also done it using a forstner bit to make the holes on the body for the dog ears, and then just using a rectangular pattern for the pickup body.
But Making a template is a better idea, as then you'll have it for the neck time!
What finish are you using there? It looks pretty slick
Some more progress today. Finished off the neck join rout and pickup cavity rout.
Got the bridge saddle recess routed and the saddles fixed with the thru-body clamps (yes, these hipshot triple locks are a real PITA to fit).
Got some maple ears glued onto the headstock and the shape cut and sanded. Some more work on the neck volute.
Hope my fingerboard arrives in the next day or two so I can make a start on the fanned frets.
I also really need to make myself a 14" radius sanding block for the fingerboard.
Pleased with the neck joint- nice and snug without feeling the wood is being put into compression.
Got the bridge saddle recess routed and the saddles fixed with the thru-body clamps (yes, these hipshot triple locks are a real PITA to fit).
Got some maple ears glued onto the headstock and the shape cut and sanded. Some more work on the neck volute.
Hope my fingerboard arrives in the next day or two so I can make a start on the fanned frets.
I also really need to make myself a 14" radius sanding block for the fingerboard.
Pleased with the neck joint- nice and snug without feeling the wood is being put into compression.
SDB Guitars
Commercial User
