Faux Acoustic guitar build

[gitlvr]

You're a machine! gonna have this done in no time.

Actually, this build is one I'm transferring from another board. It's not completed as yet, but what I've posted, and what I'll be posting for a while, was already completed a month ago. Hopefully i will be able to catch you guys up soon. Then the build will probably slow to a crawl, lol.
Got the fretboard out of clamps and trimmed to the neck blank.

Next up is to radius the fretboard.

Radius is 12". I use the 1"x4" boards on either side of the radius block to keep the block centered on the board. Same way I cut a truss rod slot.

And, radius complete.

After radiusing the board, I place some tape down the center, and crossways at the 12th. (Note: Although this pic does not show it, I put a strip of tape crossways at the 22nd fret as well.)

Then i mark my fret marker positions, and drill them out.

 

[gitlvr]

And here are the markers installed.

I went with pau abalone this time. I've been doing a lot of wood position markers, and will again. I like doing that quite a bit. But this time I thought the abalone would be a nice change of pace.
And here with the frets installed.

After which, it's time to start the neck carving. I begin by thicknessing the neck.

 

[gitlvr]

And, carrying on.

And i got really close to being done, when this happened.

This neck is toast. I hate when that happens. Time to pull out my clothes iron and some aluminum foil...

...and pull the fretboard and truss rod.

Fortunately I have another neck blank laying around.

 

[gitlvr]

O.K., so I cut another scarf joint, trimmed a new neck blank and routed it to the neck template Like I did earlier. I did not take any pics of this process, as it's the same as the first time around.
What is different is that, instead of having an oversized fretboard blank that I will later have to trim to the neck blank, this time around I have one that is already sized to fit the neck. So I don't have any leeway for positioning the fretboard. I can't afford for it to slip or drift sideways when clamping. I need to make certain it sits still in the clamps.
To that end, I clamp the fretboard down onto the bench on either side of the first fret.

This is so that the fretboard will not crack or break when I take the fret pulling pliers to the first fret, and remove it, like this.

A process I repeat at the 15th fret.

After which, I drill a small hole through the fret position at both frets.

 

[gitlvr]

The holes drilled at the 1st and 15th fret positions will allow me to use a couple of finish nails as registration pins, so that the fretboard will remain in place during clamping. I'll remove them after the glue dries, and once the frets are replaced, the holes will be hidden.
Here it is in the clamps.

That's all for now. More to come. Thanks for looking.

 

[blubolt]

This is great. Not the neck fail (although this was very informative for those us who hadn't even thought of what to do if something like that happened). I thought it wasn't possible for me to do this without a significant investment in tools. I see now that I CAN do this. Thanks for sharing and I can't wait to see how yours turns out. Really rooting for yours to Rock!

 

[Down & Outman]

I feel your pain destroying a perfectly good neck. Done that twice. Glad to see you recover the fretboard.

Like the way you hollowed out the body. Been considering something like that for a bass for myself.

BTW, I have the same drill, LOL. Go Black and Decker!

 

[blubolt]

So the hole in the neck, is it like a bubble or a pocket or something? You didn't gouge it with a tool while you were shaping it, right?

 

[Tribbinator]

Just curious, why the aluminum foil when glueing? Im assuming it just keeps the glue from spreading? Or there is another reason?

 

[Hopkins]

Just curious, why the aluminum foil when glueing? Im assuming it just keeps the glue from spreading? Or there is another reason?

When using a block of wood as a clamping caul, you have to use something like foil or wax paper to keep the block from sticking to your project.

 

[Stumbo]

I was thinking of routing out my already modded Les Paul. Not this much, but some. Also, considering doing a bass like this...a P Bass...maybe get the upright mojo going.

 

[gitlvr]

This is great. Not the neck fail (although this was very informative for those us who hadn't even thought of what to do if something like that happened). I thought it wasn't possible for me to do this without a significant investment in tools. I see now that I CAN do this. Thanks for sharing and I can't wait to see how yours turns out. Really rooting for yours to Rock!

Yes, you can do it. Tools are wonderful things, and you need some to build. But the biggest thing you need is desire. If you want to build, you'll find a way. The biggest tool in your tool box is your brain. If you use that along with all of the other tools you've got, you'll do just fine.

BTW, I have the same drill, LOL. Go Black and Decker!

LOL! It's a good drill, and well worth the money I spend on it. Although, being a lefty, the little slider that lets you reverse the direction gets in my way a lot, and I tend to accidentally push it into a kind of center position where the drill doesn't want to work. A minor inconvenience, but aggravating sometimes.

So the hole in the neck, is it like a bubble or a pocket or something? You didn't gouge it with a tool while you were shaping it, right?

No, i sanded right through to the truss rod slot. Pretty much no recovery from that.

Just curious, why the aluminum foil when glueing? Im assuming it just keeps the glue from spreading? Or there is another reason?

When using a block of wood as a clamping caul, you have to use something like foil or wax paper to keep the block from sticking to your project.

Ding! Ding! Ding! We have a winner! LOL!
I use the aluminum foil because it will shape itself to whatever I'm using as a clamping caul, and stay put. With wax paper it moves around, and that's just one more thing you have to worry about positioning properly. For me, the foil is faster and less aggravating to use.

 

[ftssjk]

i like it

 

[Thumpin_P]

Subbed! I have butchered an acoustic neck before, by rasping too close to the binding. It's a pain, but, the second neck went soooo much faster.
I have considered this method of body construction also, mostly for a bass, but, I am intrigued at how this will turn out. I know that your opinions will be greatly appreciated.

Good Luck and keep up the good work!

 

[gitlvr]

Thanks, guys!
Thumpin P, I've never done this style before, I'm just shooting from the hip. I guess we'll find out if it works when I get done, LOL.

 

[gitlvr]

I'm baaack! LOL.
On with the show!
I got the fretboard out of clamps, replaced the two frets I pulled, and did some sanding and shaping so that, at this point, we're back where we were before I ruined the first neck.

 

[gitlvr]

The next step is to lay out the tuner hole locations. To do this, I like to cover the headstock with masking tape, and then use a pencil to mark on that, rather than marking the headstock itself.

After that I clamp the headstock to the workmate, so that I can minimize any chipout or tearout to the rear when I drill the holes.

I use "Thing" to make sure my holes are straight.

 

[gitlvr]

Moving on to the side marker install. I use the plastic rod material, and a little dab of titebond. First, I drill the holes.

And then proceed with the install.

I use a razor blade to cut them as level with the side of the board as i can get. Usually, this means they require little, if any, touch up with sandpaper. If it is necessary, the final sanding of the neck will usually get them nice and level and smooth.

 

[gitlvr]

A couple of shots of the completed neck.

 

[blubolt]

Flipping' nice, Man!