fEARful™ Part Ten (10)

[greenboy]

Yeah, forgot about the long staples. I've seen those used in enclosures and furniture and home interior work. Good indeed.

 

[Sundogue]

Fasteners are a good substitute for more clamps or more time. A lot of experienced builders do not look down their noses at the use of brad guns and/or screws. Suit yourselves, but try not to make it religious issue ; }

An aside: building my quickie "fuglies" I always had a drill with a 1/8" bit or countersink on it side by side with another drill carrying a phillips tip. For screw work that really speeds things up.

Yeah I'm a "Glue and Screw" guy. I just glue it up and while it sets I go...wait, no...I glue it up (well, PL on this last build) and screw it in place so I can immediately move on to the next part. I only use clamps until the screws are in.

Sometimes I leave the screws in, but once the glue/PL is set you can take the screws out and there is very little to fill, especially on the edges that get rounded over.

Everyone has their own method. All that matters is that it does the job. About the only time I don't use screws is for stain/woodgrain finishes where I don't want any fill spots showing. If you are just painting or Duratexing your cab, the method is just a matter of what works for you. Screws sure don't add much weight even if you leave them in.

 

[jeff5311]

I worked mostly from the front to the back, assembling the baffle, shelf & divider, top bottom sides first. Then I did the mid box and braces, and finally laid in the back (on top of the back braces already glued in place). All butt joints.

Because Titebond sets in 30 minutes or so, each step went quickly, and even though I discovered some inaccurate cuts and had to recut some pieces, the whole thing went together just fine.

Thanks for the input! My experience with woodworking is watching "This Old House" on PBS a couple of times... so I've got some learnin' to do.

Regardless, thanks for everyone's help! Now, I've just got to find a good source for 1/2" Auraco plywood in Atlanta, GA.

 

[greenboy]

Arauco likely isn't the only non-heavy ply worth investigating in a major center like Atlanta.

 

[ian_s]

On the fEARful site I mention in passing the use or plastic wood or Bondo (instructions come with products) for filling on the exterior, because I think paint will not adhere to PL Premium very well.

Have you tried it? It works just fine for me. I sprayed a primer then painted with Duratex, mostly just to save Duratex.

 

[DukeLeJeune]

It would seem that based on Duke's recent post, the image is correct when using an Alpha6A and the discussion text is correct when using an 18Sound.

I'm using the Alpha6A so do I wire the ASD1001 normal or reverse? Although, it's easy enough to simply swap the wires at the driver later if necessary.

Sorry for the confusion!

With the Alpha6, wire the tweeter with the same polarity as the midrange; or in other words, reverse polarity with respect to the woofer.

With the 18Sound, wire the tweeter in reverse polarity with respect to the midrange; or in other words, with the same polarity as the woofer.

It is possible that the difference between correct and incorrect tweeter polarity is inaudible or nearly so.

"... On the 15/6 crossover, reduce the series resistor to 1.5 ohms and increase the parallel resistor to 40 ohms. Also change the 15.0 uF cap to 14.0 uF. You might have to do something like parallel 12.0 uF with 2.0 uF."

p.s. Did he mean 12.0 uF with 2.0 uF in SERIES...

14 microfarads is an odd value and may be hard to find, but it can be arrived at by wiring - in parallel - capacitors whose values add up to 14 microfards. 12 uF in parallel with 2 uF is an example of one way to get there using commonly available values.

 

[greenboy]

Have you tried it? It works just fine for me. I sprayed a primer then painted with Duratex, mostly just to save Duratex.

I know Bondo works for adherence and it's easy to work, and its cheap enough.

I'm not sure how well fully cured and sanded PL Premium holds paint.

 

[greenboy]

It is possible that the difference between correct and incorrect tweeter polarity is inaudible or nearly so.

Sure seems like it. It's a very narrow null and not so deep, could even vary from driver samples and measurement technique. It's not a big trench carver like polarity-related nulls so often are. I'd have to see a lot of data at various L-pad settings to say more, but it's in a range that's got so little natural overtone series bass guitar content that IF SOMEONE CAN'T TELL, IT'S NOT AN ISSUE.

Summary: people, flip it around several times if you want and see if you can hear a diff.

 

[dhomer]

Who is Oberton ? Those part numbers look sorta BMS like..

Oberton is a (i'm assuming) Russian? speaker manufacturer of drivers that may be suitable for our needs. Check the thread on the ultimate 2x10 for links. There is no US distributor for these, but according to Arjank they can be purchased direct.

I would think if these were going to be widely adopted as acceptable substitutes for the fEARfuls, they would have to be more readily available.. Business opportunity for someone...

 

[greenboy]

I would think if these were going to be widely adopted as acceptable substitutes for the fEARfuls, they would have to be more readily available..

More readily available and with a widespread support network. After seeing how crappy the BMS distributor has handled stuff over the years here in the US, I can't recommend something like that.

 

[mothra2]

... 14 microfarads is an odd value and may be hard to find, but it can be arrived at by wiring - in parallel - capacitors whose values add up to 14 microfards. 12 uF in parallel with 2 uF is an example of one way to get there using commonly available values.

Thanks for the clarification for this Newbie.
Much appreciated

 

[MX21]

I am loooking to build a fEARful 1212+6. I download the plans from Greenboy's site, the cutlist and Sketch Up from Davio's site.

I went ahead and did research on the site to be informed about the project, but I am still missing some information. I may have not been able to properly locate the info. If it is posted somewhere feel free to send me a link to the page.

I bought 1/2" Birch to start this project. I am going to mark the wood tomorrow, and then go ahead and start cutting my pieces out.

The question I have is regarding crossovers.

I read about biamping and the Greenboy crossovers and I saw MX21 had an excellent thread on his build and a special section on the fEARful site on all his wiring options.

To sum it all up, I found the crossover on the fEARful site and was wondering if I had to modify it in anyway if I am going to run my head bridged in to the cab.

Currently I run a Sansamp RPM into a QSC 1450 bridged to my current cabinet. I have the speakon wired accordingly to the bridged setting.

Could I just run it bridged speakon to speakon to the cabinet? Or would I need to modify or add to the crossover/cabinet?

As others said, the speaker end is no different when running bridged. Just 1+ and 1- into the crossover input.

 

[Coolhandjjl]

Seems like there is a love/hate relationship regarding hurricane bolts. I was planing on using Recex screws for my 15/6 Tube. When I made my BFM cabs, the cab design had the Recex screws going through two layers of 1/2 BB to anchor the drivers. Do I need to put some backer wood behind the face panel of my 15/6 Tube to hold the Recex screws?

 

[rpsands]

I've been fine using 1/2" with recex before but it certainly would be easy to put backing pieces in place. PL rules.

 

[Pilot172]

I bought an air stapler. Didn't use it on the 12/6 but I can say it will hold better than brads...great little gun to have for any wood working. Wish I had it when building the cab.

Yeah, forgot about the long staples. I've seen those used in enclosures and furniture and home interior work. Good indeed.

 

[wcriley]

Seems like there is a love/hate relationship regarding hurricane bolts. I was planing on using Recex screws for my 15/6 Tube. When I made my BFM cabs, the cab design had the Recex screws going through two layers of 1/2 BB to anchor the drivers. Do I need to put some backer wood behind the face panel of my 15/6 Tube to hold the Recex screws?

I mark where the recex screws will go and glue 1" x 1" pieces of 1/2" ply behind them. The woofer in my year-old 1
12/6 hasn't worked loose.

 

[3506string]

Well this is the first price increase I've actually seen since the news.

Eminence Kappalite 3012LF Neodymium 12" Speaker 3012 LF | eBay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370498309726#ht_3322wt_805

 

[Coolhandjjl]

Thanks!

I'm also planing on using individual round steel grills over each driver. Parts Express sells the Dayton brand, @ 1.2mm thick powder coated metal, and an economy brand that is .7mm powder coated metal at almost half the price of the Daytons. Any thoughts on either would be helpful.

 

[Arjank]

Oberton is a (i'm assuming) Russian? speaker manufacturer of drivers that may be suitable for our needs. Check the thread on the ultimate 2x10 for links. There is no US distributor for these, but according to Arjank they can be purchased direct.

I would think if these were going to be widely adopted as acceptable substitutes for the fEARfuls, they would have to be more readily available.. Business opportunity for someone...

Oberton is from Bulgaria (EU), I never heard of Oberton myself a half year ago but since I got these drivers I can't stop braggin' about this stuff. I' ve just asked them if people can buy single units if they buy directly from the factory. I hope to recieve an answer tomorrow.
Also, the 15's they make are from exceptional quality.
I visited the Dutch distributor a few times and talked to him about Oberton. He also thinks the quality is top notch, he also mentioned that he never had any defective drivers from customers. He still has loads of spare diaphragms and recone kits.....

 

[rpsands]

Thanks!

I'm also planing on using individual round steel grills over each driver. Parts Express sells the Dayton brand, @ 1.2mm thick powder coated metal, and an economy brand that is .7mm powder coated metal at almost half the price of the Daytons. Any thoughts on either would be helpful.

Hey speaking of this can anyone who has used a round grille on a 3015LF link me up with a specific link to the model you use?

Thanks!