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fEARful Part Twelve (12)
- Thread starter greenboy
- Start date
- Status
I just thought of a solution that would solve everything.
I could continue with my makeshift fixes to the various issues and continue to use the cab I have while Robby builds a replacement cab. I assume the replacement cab would be built to circumvent these issues before they happened. Once the replacement cab is done I could ship my current cab back and he could fix it properly and re-sell at a discount price or just use it for parts. This solution would enable me to have a cab to use while the replacement is being built. At the same time I would get a better built cab that would last a long, long time rather than what I am resorting to now.
To quote Deb
Is this a reasonable solution?
I could continue with my makeshift fixes to the various issues and continue to use the cab I have while Robby builds a replacement cab. I assume the replacement cab would be built to circumvent these issues before they happened. Once the replacement cab is done I could ship my current cab back and he could fix it properly and re-sell at a discount price or just use it for parts. This solution would enable me to have a cab to use while the replacement is being built. At the same time I would get a better built cab that would last a long, long time rather than what I am resorting to now.
To quote Deb
Is this a reasonable solution?
BurningSkies
CRAZY BALDHEAD
- Feb 20, 2005
- 27,956
- 20,348
- Disclosures
- Endorsing artist: Dingwall Guitars
I'm not Robbie, but that would be a workable solution if I had built it...
If it were me, I would just drill and tap the ring and bypass any nuts. Plus it will negate any place for rattles to come from.
Robby promptly returned my email saying he'll fabricate a ply ring for me today and put in a tube of PL and some extra spring clamps.
Sounds good to me.
Question: Should I use T-Nuts once the ring is in place? I assume they will work well with plywood? I was also thinking of using some Locktite Blue (removable) as well.
Sounds good to me.
Question: Should I use T-Nuts once the ring is in place? I assume they will work well with plywood? I was also thinking of using some Locktite Blue (removable) as well.
I see what you're saying, and that could be a very simple solution, and the simplest solution is often the best. However any metal stout enough to hold cut threads better than recex screws in an inch of hardwood plywood would come at a fairly significant weight penalty. I personally would never thread anything aluminum - even forged, and expect it to out-perform wood screws, t-nuts or hurricane nuts.
Speaking of the simplest solution- perhaps that is a hardwood plywood ring laminated inside the baffle, and recex screws to mount the driver. You get proven screw holding strength, as well as the option to use new holes when re-mounting the driver by simply rotating the speaker a few degrees.
For alternate cab material, it would be slick if Eminence and other mfr's were to offer rings which are essentially the mounting ring portion of the basket with steel threaded inserts, backed with nylock style thread lockers, and VHB tape on the baffle side to mount it. It still seems however, that the issue with Robbie's cab's might be panel compression, so such a thing wouldn't really help in Torin's case. Also, it occurs to me that perhaps they don't offer such a thing because it isn't really necessary, and it turns out I'm just over-thinking things - as usual.
If it's a plywood ring I would just use recex screws. Screw t-nuts. They're for suckers
What he said.
there have been plenty of posts on this one.. not sure if these graphs have been posted before.
IMO they show pretty destinctly why the 18Sound 6ND410 has been the mid driver of choice for greenboy with the ruler flat, distortion free mid range, leaving aside the sensitivity advantage.
Conversely, the FaitalPro W6N8 is showing, why some people prefer them in their nEARfuls with the dip at 2000 Hz, the extended top end with its associated cone break up. Different design goals. However the 6ND410 can easily be eq'ed for that 2k dip.
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IMO they show pretty destinctly why the 18Sound 6ND410 has been the mid driver of choice for greenboy with the ruler flat, distortion free mid range, leaving aside the sensitivity advantage.
Conversely, the FaitalPro W6N8 is showing, why some people prefer them in their nEARfuls with the dip at 2000 Hz, the extended top end with its associated cone break up. Different design goals. However the 6ND410 can easily be eq'ed for that 2k dip.
the same, but [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
To me the18sound is superior to the other 2.
Another interesting choice that is closer to 18sound in my opinion is this one:
Link Removed
It seems to provide better dispersion control of high mids due to the "phase plug". Off axis response looks better on paper.
It looks visually similar to what Barefaced Big Baby uses to pair with a 3012 LF. And this choice would make sense to me.
Slightly more expensive in USspeaker, clearly cheaper in Spain, probably about the same cost in most Europe.
Another interesting choice that is closer to 18sound in my opinion is this one:
Link Removed
It seems to provide better dispersion control of high mids due to the "phase plug". Off axis response looks better on paper.
It looks visually similar to what Barefaced Big Baby uses to pair with a 3012 LF. And this choice would make sense to me.
Slightly more expensive in USspeaker, clearly cheaper in Spain, probably about the same cost in most Europe.
Okay, I tried the cab out tonite at rehearsal and it seems fine now after my fixes. Fine enough that I'll try it on a gig.
One question:
I put 2mm foam tape (as gasket tape) between the mid driver and the baffle and I screwed it down fairly tight. However, I am pretty sure I can get some more turns of the screw driver. Do I want it so tight that the screws will no longer budge? Or should I leave it a tiny bit loose so the foam tape is not completely compressed?
One question:
I put 2mm foam tape (as gasket tape) between the mid driver and the baffle and I screwed it down fairly tight. However, I am pretty sure I can get some more turns of the screw driver. Do I want it so tight that the screws will no longer budge? Or should I leave it a tiny bit loose so the foam tape is not completely compressed?
::::BASSIST:::: said:
Forgive my ignorance if you already posted this, but what sort of screws are they? Machine thread into tee /hurricane nuts or coarse wood / sheet metal screws? The latter are prone to breaking off if torqued too much. As for your question, I would say tighten them sufficiently such that nothing moves or buzzes, and compresses the gasket sufficiently so it doesn't cause the seal to weaken as it compresses further. Then check them a few days later. (IMHO). But not having built a fearful (yet), I'll defer to those who have on that.
If I wanted a fEARful 12/6/1 that could double as a practice cab for use in my garage, what are some super-low noise amps you guys can recommend?
I've noticed that even really quiet noises can bug me when practicing in a quiet room, and knowing how well fEARfuls represent the sound going into them, any noises produced by the amp will come through clearly.
So any ideas?
I've noticed that even really quiet noises can bug me when practicing in a quiet room, and knowing how well fEARfuls represent the sound going into them, any noises produced by the amp will come through clearly.
So any ideas?
Does the sound of the fan actually come through the speaker at all? Unless that's the case, I don't mind the sound of a fan.
I'm talking more like hiss, fuzz, buzz, ringing, anything like that. I've noticed that you can hear that from some amps when they're sitting idle.
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