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fEarful Cabinet Question...
- Thread starter yodedude2
- Start date
I had an LDS and a 12/6/1 fEarful. Same components except LDS had a really great Faital.
The lds wasn’t close to the fearful. The ONLY difference was the crossover. You can’t just cram stuff in a box, so what are you expecting?
The lds wasn’t close to the fearful. The ONLY difference was the crossover. You can’t just cram stuff in a box, so what are you expecting?
Passinwind
I know nothing.
- Dec 3, 2003
- 23,049
- 45,913
- Disclosures
- Designer/Toaster Tech @ Passinwind Electronics
That’ll drive the box tuning the wrong way, no bueno.
thank you, mr. wind. allow me to ask... my 12sub port is 13 deep*7.5 wide *2.5 tall *2 (2 sides, divided in the middle) = 487.5 (inches). so if that port shelf is cut in half (front to back, as per mr. jbybj,) one gets 6.5 inches. 6.5*7.5*2.5*2 = 243.75. so if i block one half of the port volume completely by filling it with some material, i get 13*7.5*2.5 = 243.75. i am confused.
please help me understand
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these are rectangular ports. but i reckon you knew that already...just trying to be clear.
I’m not an expert but I suspect this is not going to produce the desired result.
thank you once again for your input. i feel like maybe i am not being clear...building a 'block' for the port actually is a block about 6.5"x7.5"x2.5" to fill up half the port volume...i am not understanding how that is different from halving the port volume by shortening the top side of the port shelf (if that is indeed the case).
Think of it this way, if you plug up half the port, you’re making it more difficult for the air to move in and out. If you remove half the shelf, you’re making it easier for the air to move in and out.
interesting. but the moving air really only cares about the port volume, yes? generally speaking...the port could be a cylinder for all it cares...or go out the back or the side...
edit: anyway, i have been encouraged by your positive results. i will try it out myself in the next couple of weeks or so. thanks again for your assistance.
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Ok, let’s be clear, I don’t understand the underpinnings of this acoustic science voodoo. I did what passinwind (who does indeed understand this stuff) told me to do. It worked, really well. So I’m not the person to explain this to you, sorry. I’m just the guy who can confirm, through experience, that it was a good mod.
okay, i've had an epiphany of sorts, but nothing to do with cows i think i understand how my math was off. @Passinwind suggested to jbybj to cut the port shelf 'depth' by half. this reduces the port volume area by half, yes, but it also adds half the previous port volume area to the cabinet interior. this is why plugging half the port won't work here...one gets the right port area but the wrong interior area. i.e. one can't simply subtract ~244 cu. in. from the port area; one must add that same amount of area to the cab interior.
so i may end up trashing these cabs after all...not sure what my next move is...still considering options.
i think i understand how my math was off. @Passinwind suggested to jbybj to cut the port shelf 'depth' by half. this reduces the port volume area by half, yes, but it also adds half the previous port volume area to the cabinet interior. this is why plugging half the port won't work here...one gets the right port area but the wrong interior area. i.e. one can't simply subtract ~244 cu. in. from the port area; one must add that same amount of area to the cab interior.so i may end up trashing these cabs after all...not sure what my next move is...still considering options.
The first thing you need to do is to understand that the HO is way more mid speaker than bass speaker.
It would be very happy as a vocal monitor in a small wedge cab.
It does have value and you might be able to trade it for a used speaker that would suit your needs more.
It would be very happy as a vocal monitor in a small wedge cab.
It does have value and you might be able to trade it for a used speaker that would suit your needs more.
Why would you trash your cab? You asked and got your answer. Turns out it will be a nice cab. Just cut the shelf (doesnt need to be an expert carpentry job).
Edit: Adding the asnwer form Passinwind (a great resource)
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Just re-tune the danged cab to around 55 Hz and it'll work fine. View attachment 2565256
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Here's a Max SPL comparison, green is 3012LF and red is 3012HO w/ same box tuning:
View attachment 2565280
Now re-tune your cab to 55Hz:
View attachment 2565281
And although you won't get the same response below 50Hz (by a lot), IMHO you will have a much more usable standalone cab than a fEARful 12Sub, since the high end will be far superior with the HO driver. So I think you may have inadvertently lucked out, actually.
Edit: Adding the asnwer form Passinwind (a great resource)
↑
Just re-tune the danged cab to around 55 Hz and it'll work fine. View attachment 2565256
↑
↑
Here's a Max SPL comparison, green is 3012LF and red is 3012HO w/ same box tuning:
View attachment 2565280
Now re-tune your cab to 55Hz:
View attachment 2565281
And although you won't get the same response below 50Hz (by a lot), IMHO you will have a much more usable standalone cab than a fEARful 12Sub, since the high end will be far superior with the HO driver. So I think you may have inadvertently lucked out, actually.
Don't trash them.
You can reach inside with one of those wigwag cutting machines to take off some shelf length.
Or sell them as is.
You can reach inside with one of those wigwag cutting machines to take off some shelf length.
Or sell them as is.
Looks pretty handy as a bass driver in Passinwind's 55hz box!
Still need a chisel to break it all out. Wigwag machine buying excuse!
