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fEarful cabs screwed and glued? Or just glued?

OzzyGreg

OzzyGreg

Jun 7, 2008
1,488
471
Illawarra, NSW, Australia
www.tz350.com
#1
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I am about to embark on my very first fEarful cab construction. I've made several other DIY cabs before, all screwed and glued.

I cut out all the components today at work using the cutting list provided on fEarful's website.

My question is:
It appears to me that the basic carcasses of these cabs are not screwed and glued, just simply cramped and glued.

I can't see how they can be screwed because any routing (rounding) of the edges would strike any screws used around the perimeter edges of the box in the absence of support bracing around the perimeter of each side/top/bottom.

Am I right here in assuming that they are simply glued butt joints?

This would limit the radius of any final routing to, I'm guessing here: about 1/4" or so.

Input/advice?

Greg
 
#3
from what i could gather from the fearful site, the cabs do look butt joint only. however, if you have the capability to pocket screw from behind (or underneath rather), that would help. a local cabinet shop might be able to help w/that. then you could slightly router the outer edge w/no prob and a reinforced joint. the other post made sense as well if your hooking it up fast w/no cost or too much time. good solution for quick cheap improv. local cab shop or welder could help w/clamps if need be i bet! blessings! trisha
 
#4
I am building a non-fearful cab right now and plan on using glue and screws. PL Premium Glue and 2" deck screws on 3/4" plywood. I plan on using clamps and weights to hold the whole thing down while it dries.

BTW, here is a good source for cheap clamps:
Invalid Link Removed
 
#7
i would use just glue if it were dovetail joints. otherwise in 5 years when the glue is brittle it will crack easily, and probably wont survive a 2 foot drop without loosening a panel and having it buzz.
 
#8
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DONZI97,

I went to the link you provided (fEarful forum) and tried to register.

At the end there was a security question about a cat who won't give out or something.
Man, I'm in Australia, I have no idea which cat they are talking about!!!
I tried "Felix", but that was wrong.
Which cat is it? Please!!!!

Please PM me if necessary.

Greg
 
#9
Hi.

staindbass said:
i would use just glue if it were dovetail joints. otherwise in 5 years when the glue is brittle it will crack easily, and probably wont survive a 2 foot drop without loosening a panel and having it buzz.
Click to expand...

5 years for the glue to get brittle??

That's some crappy cheap-ass glue if that happens.

And if it does, the cab will rattle about as much with screws as it would without.

Regards
Sam
 
#10
OzzyGreg said:
.
DONZI97,

I went to the link you provided (fEarful forum) and tried to register.

At the end there was a security question about a cat who won't give out or something.
Man, I'm in Australia, I have no idea which cat they are talking about!!!
I tried "Felix", but that was wrong.
Which cat is it? Please!!!!

Please PM me if necessary.

Greg
Click to expand...

Was it, Who's the cat that won't cop out? / When there's danger all about?

SHAFT!


I don't think I had to answer a question when I registered, but hopefully that's what you're looking for.
 
#11
here's mine. I used all sorts of clamps and did one section at a time and a allowed a day's drying time with each session. No screws used.
 

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#13
Using no fasteners is fine. Fasteners only serve to hold the parts in alignment while the adhesive sets. The downside to using no fasteners is that you can only do a step or two at a time, but that's not a problem if you're in no hurry. I use 18ga brads and staples almost exclusively, because holding power isn't an issue, they're at least three times faster than using screws, and they don't need to be removed before rounding the edges.
I don't think I had to answer a question when I registered
Click to expand...
'Captcha' verification codes have been broken by spambots, so most sites are switching to questions that spambots can't answer. It does help to keep the questions easily answered by the average human being, though.
 
#14
Pocket holes are handy, especially for the fit as you go.
You can put it together, and even try the driver in it for a dry run before you commit to glue.

When it comes time to glue it, there's no clamp time.
Never had an inside pocket interfere with a roundover, but you can double check the screw length.
 

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