BurningSkies
CRAZY BALDHEAD
- Feb 20, 2005
- 27,956
- 20,348
- Disclosures
- Endorsing artist: Dingwall Guitars
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
fEarful cabs screwed and glued? Or just glued?
- Thread starter OzzyGreg
- Start date
.
Aaah so ..... prastic, yes honourable Munjibunga-san !!
(LOL!! Sorry, couldn't help but add to this!!)
Seriously now, yes mate, I will be using plastic corners. I plan the carpet the outside as well if I can. I've done this on the other cabs I've built in the past.
Aaah so ..... prastic, yes honourable Munjibunga-san !!
(LOL!! Sorry, couldn't help but add to this!!)
Seriously now, yes mate, I will be using plastic corners. I plan the carpet the outside as well if I can. I've done this on the other cabs I've built in the past.
.
"Clamps" or "cramps"?
Until recently I've always called them clamps, right from my 1st year apprentice carpenter days back in 1980.
I'm now a woodwork/metalwork teacher in high school and was corrected by one of the elder teachers in our faculty recently. He insisted the correct term is "cramps". (At least here in Australia they are apparently "cramps".)
I still reckon it's "clamps", but I really respect this old guy, so I use "cramps" now.
Greg
"Clamps" or "cramps"?
Until recently I've always called them clamps, right from my 1st year apprentice carpenter days back in 1980.
I'm now a woodwork/metalwork teacher in high school and was corrected by one of the elder teachers in our faculty recently. He insisted the correct term is "cramps". (At least here in Australia they are apparently "cramps".)
I still reckon it's "clamps", but I really respect this old guy, so I use "cramps" now.
Greg
I've seen glued finger joints fail on old (~50 years) combo and speaker cabinets. It also isn't unusual to see brads that need resetting when recovering cabinets.
The modern brads that you shoot are coated with glue and hold better than the older hammer-in pin type. The ribbed ones are even better.
Although all you need is carpenters glue, I like the security of brads or screws. As was said earlier, when a cab is bounced around a little too much, some extra insurance isn't a bad thing.
The modern brads that you shoot are coated with glue and hold better than the older hammer-in pin type. The ribbed ones are even better.
Although all you need is carpenters glue, I like the security of brads or screws. As was said earlier, when a cab is bounced around a little too much, some extra insurance isn't a bad thing.
.
Thanks for all the responses guys.
I'm always very careful with my gear, so its highly unlikely that I'll be dropping this cab and damaging it.
I reckon I'll use the no-screw method and see how it goes.
I'll cramp it all together section by section over the next week for maximum strength.
Fingers crossed!
Greg
Thanks for all the responses guys.
I'm always very careful with my gear, so its highly unlikely that I'll be dropping this cab and damaging it.
I reckon I'll use the no-screw method and see how it goes.
I'll cramp it all together section by section over the next week for maximum strength.
Fingers crossed!
Greg
I use clamps to see everything's lined up right then run little #6 screws in to hold it just because I don't have 20 clamps, I have 4. You could take all the screws out after the glue sets but I just leave them in, it's only maybe 2 pounds. If you sink 'em a little you can round the edges over without hitting them.
I clamped, screwed and glued, then removed the screws, routed the edges, and filled the remaining holes.
Er... that's what she said.
Er... that's what she said.
.
I ended up cramping the sides of the cab, but found that the sash cramps I borrowed from work were (just) too small to reach from the top of the cab to the bottom! Doh!
I ended up routing the corners first, then found that I could position screws correctly and countersink them enough for them to be hidden under the carpet I am covering the cab with. That's what I did on the top and bottom where I couldn't use the too-short cramps.
I'm off to buy carpet and fittings now.
Greg
I ended up cramping the sides of the cab, but found that the sash cramps I borrowed from work were (just) too small to reach from the top of the cab to the bottom! Doh!
I ended up routing the corners first, then found that I could position screws correctly and countersink them enough for them to be hidden under the carpet I am covering the cab with. That's what I did on the top and bottom where I couldn't use the too-short cramps.
I'm off to buy carpet and fittings now.
Greg
Rick Auricchio
Registered Bass Offender
Yes, but they didn't have modern glues back then. PL premium results in joints that are stronger than the wood itself; they're not going to loosen.
When I built my BFM Omni15, I worked with a friend who has a big woodworking shop. Cabinet joints were simply clamped, but we shot some brads to hold braces in place during gluing.
Yes, carpenter's glue is also stronger than the wood itself. I've used PL Premium in other applications and it's great stuff. It would be very interesting to see any studies on the stability and strength of a PL Premium joint over time and adverse conditions such as cold, heat, and humidity. It's done a great job holding my bathroom tiles (yes Never_Grew_Up, I said bathroom!) in a hot humid environment. I also have faith that PL Premium is a great product for cab building.
Nobody builds a cab worrying about how the bond will hold in the very long term. I do like the extra insurance of some fasteners if the cab is going to used in a professional setting where it is going to be transported frequently.
No doubt the adhesive is far stronger than the screws or other fasteners. However, working from the inside out (screws from the inside, not long enough to get in the way of edge routing) gives the best of both worlds - security and speed, because:
I don't have that many clamps myself, so I countersunk screws and used the handy little furniture plugs you find in the hardware store:
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
After finishing they're pretty much invisible:
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
After finishing they're pretty much invisible:
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
Gleg, where abouts in Australia are you? If you're in Sydney I can lend you some of my long cramps.
FWIW I usually glue and cramp my cabs, rout the edges when it's dry, then add screws last. I just figure the glue is less rikery to let go with a screw holding everything in place.
FWIW I usually glue and cramp my cabs, rout the edges when it's dry, then add screws last. I just figure the glue is less rikery to let go with a screw holding everything in place.
Gotta love the Aussies - always willing to share a cramp!
(Munji would have said it if I didn't)
(Munji would have said it if I didn't)
.
LOL!!!
(sorry ..... should it be ROR? I don't know, what do the japs struggle with? I'm not sure now.)
No, all good mate, the cab is all but complete. Thanks anyway.
(I'm down in Shellharbour BTW, a bit far from Sydney to duck over and borrow cramps/clamps.)
I made my grill/frame up this morning, just waiting for it all to dry.
All I really need now is a couple of speakers to arrive.
Everything else is finished.
I'll post a few pics tomorrow when I have fitted the grill.
Greg
LOL!!!
(sorry ..... should it be ROR? I don't know, what do the japs struggle with? I'm not sure now.)
No, all good mate, the cab is all but complete. Thanks anyway.
(I'm down in Shellharbour BTW, a bit far from Sydney to duck over and borrow cramps/clamps.)
I made my grill/frame up this morning, just waiting for it all to dry.
All I really need now is a couple of speakers to arrive.
Everything else is finished.
I'll post a few pics tomorrow when I have fitted the grill.
Greg
