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fEARful part 13: the bad luck's done, son

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#281
jeff5311 said:
AH HA! Thanks BurningSkies... that's exactly what I'm hearing. The MarkBass F1 / F500 mids are distorting when the pre-amp gain is set at more than 1/4 of it's total.

Is there another micro that y'all would suggest I use to drive my 15/6/1 or 12/6/1 cube?

Or... should I just suck it up and get a power amp (and a separate preamp)?
Click to expand...
I think the ideal micro amp for a (8ohm) 15/6 is the gkmb800. I have the gkmb500 and its pretty awesome... havent cranked it yet though. Never had it distort at all. I also can't think of a micro that is louder than these gk offerings. If you want really loud check out the bx1500 which gives 900w bridged at 8 ohms. Only 10LBS and features out the wazoo. Good price too.
 
#284
ZombiCrow said:
I'll start with dual 15/6's, good suggestion Mr. Reiner, however the 1515/66 looks MIGHTY interesting from the standpoint of synth/vocals/kick. You could easily be a fully self-sufficient band with that sort of setup! PS: When is that rock preamp going into mass production? :P
Click to expand...

Yup, that big cab is badass indeed! I would have gone that route but I wanted to try the cut kits to try and support the authorized builders, so I figured a pair of 15/6s was the next best thing.

As for the preamp, we'll never see any kind of real production unless I can kidnap some Keebler elves and teach them how to solder, but I do hope to pick up the pace next year now that the sound lab and amp garage are in order.
 
#288
Well its taken quite awhile but I think/hope I have fixed my driver problem permanently. As you may recall, I was having trouble with the fibreglass and t-nuts not working well and failing on a number of bolts securing the driver to the baffle. A few weeks ago Robby sent me a 1/2 inch plywood ring. I PL'd that in. Then I went to purchase recex screws but could not find them locally and just went with regular construction screws (the best I could find). They did not work to my satisfaction so I removed them.

So this is what I did.

1. cut eight 1x2 inch pieces of 1/4 inch plywood and inserted T-nuts into them.

2. Used 2.5 inch bolts and lock washers and coupled those into the T-nuts. Adding Locktite (blue) to given more antivibration security.

3.PL'd those onto all the 8 appropriate screws holes, being careful to not get the PL in the actual holes... just surrounding wood.

4. re-applied gasket tape to the back of the driver and dropped it in.

5. Used a combination of flat washers and lock washers as well as nuts that have partial nylon threads to secure all 8 bolts.

The driver is super secure now and I highly doubt I have any more problems.
 
#293
The reviews are on the same page you linked to, but you have to click on the "reviews" tab to see them. Some people reported problems with the nuts spinning during the rivetting/flanging job, and ended up with botched nuts which couldn't be removed (get your minds back on woodworking). Just meant that for small jobs, it might be feasible to work around the mistake, but on a nearly finished cabinet... not so easy.
 
#295
My only problem with Resex screws is that they are just wood screws and 2-3 times of in and out and you start having problems. Ive always liked T-nuts and have used them quite a few times with good success. But I have had the occasional drop out or spin. I believe if you set the T-nuts well and were careful of the use of the mandrel, the incidence of error would be greatly diminished. And once they are correctly installed, theyre there for good.
 
#296
Ol'Bass'ead said:
My only problem with Resex screws is that they are just wood screws and 2-3 times of in and out and you start having problems. Ive always liked T-nuts and have used them quite a few times with good success. But I have had the occasional drop out or spin. I believe if you set the T-nuts well and were careful of the use of the mandrel, the incidence of error would be greatly diminished. And once they are correctly installed, theyre there for good.
Click to expand...

I have yet to have a recex screw strip out, in tens of driver swaps across various cabs.
 
#298
I used standard t-nuts and blue loctite to mount the drivers. I understand how they could be cross-threaded if the holes they are in aren't straight, but I don't see them coming loose or turning any time soon assuming they're whacked into place well enough. Ah, the hammer, my favourite high-tech precision device. ;)
 
#299
rpsands said:
I wouldn't buy baltic birch if you live in LA.

Get with AIT wood and get a sheet of Okoume.
Click to expand...

Why? Is that better, cheaper, or something else?

I see on their site they have 48"x96" 9-ply European birch plywood for $72.00:
Aitwood Anderson International - StoreFront

I don't see any Okoume on the site.
If I do find it, can I use something thinner than 1/2"?

This is all new to me and I don't want to make the wrong choice and screw up my build.
 
#300
Yep, my bad, it is the radius of the circle, the main point being to measure to the outside of the bit rather than the inside or you'll get a hole that's to big. (though not twice too big).

That picture on the left shows test circles in a scrap of plywood. You can make out the screws that hold the center points of the different circles.

In the trade show industry we use 1/4-20 T nuts on most of the displays that are assembled and disassembled by various qualities of labor all over the world. The 1/4-20 is your standard, do everything bolt or screw on the crates as well. The trick to getting T nuts to stand up to that kind of abuse is a couple small screws that lock the flange down and keep it from being pushed out or spinning. PITA but that makes em almost idiot proof. This is mostly used where it will be impossible to get to the T nut after the structure is built.

I use a C clamp to push the spikes all the way into the wood, then install the screws.

That's what's on tap for this morning: mounting the 3015LF, 18Sound, horn and wave guide, and round grills. For the small grill, I just tap the plywood with a 1/4-20 tap and skip the T nuts, it's really tight in that midrange compartment. Some polyfill for damping, and wiring the 4 pole speakon inputs. Parts Express came through in less than a week.

I'm still waiting on Erse for the crossover parts.
 
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