Fender 9050 flats E string doesn't fit?

[Davebass77]

Has anyone noticed this? Was trying to install new Fender 9050 flats on my 2008 Fender Highway One (1?) Jazz bass and something felt wrong with the E string.

Bought the bass used about 5 years ago and it came with a Leo Quan Badass II bridge installed. One of you Fender-philes can probably tell me if it came from the factory like that, but I don't know.

Here's the issue: the E string bridge hole is too small for the green silk on the ball end of the E string to fit through. I mean, easy fix with an x-acto blade to trim some of the silk off so it would fit, but is that normal?

Sure, I've changed out the regular bridge on my '86 Jazz Bass Special (MIJ) to a LQ Badass II back in the day, but never had that problem. Of course I was using rounds, not flats then. Is this a known issue?

 

[michael_t]

I have used Fender 9050L (45-60-80-100) and 9050CL (45-60-80-105) on my 2008 Highway One Jazz with the stock BAII bridge with absolutely no issues.

 

[BassDaddy77]

Yep, the 2008 Highway One basses had a BAII from the factory. I also had to trim the silk on the E string for flats with that bridge. I believe they were Chromes at the time.

 

[Davebass77]

My set is the 9050L. Maybe the strings were made on a Friday? LOL!

 

[iiipopes]

Drill the anchor hole out slightly with a one or two size larger machine bit, which are numbered bits that change diameter by a few thousanths of an inch for each bit. Don't use regular wood bits, because they don't have fine enough gradient between bit sizes. I have had to do this occasionally over the decades with both guitar and bass bridges, and for brass instrument mouthpiece throats where the plating was too thick.

 

[Davebass77]

Appreciate the responses. Do you think these numbered machine bits would be available at a Home Depot or Lowes? @iiipopes - would you know the brand or type to ask for? Is this metric?

 

[BassDaddy77]

Something that may be worth trying: Take an old roundwound E string (the biggest gauge you have that fits through the hole, and stainless steel would be more abrasive than nickel if you've got an old one) and use it as a file to grind away a bit of the plating inside the E string pilot hole in the bridge. Might take a few minutes, but it's a cost-free option that just might do the trick without a trip to the hardware store.

 

[jdjk7]

Has anyone noticed this? Was trying to install new Fender 9050 flats on my 2008 Fender Highway One (1?) Jazz bass and something felt wrong with the E string.

Bought the bass used about 5 years ago and it came with a Leo Quan Badass II bridge installed. One of you Fender-philes can probably tell me if it came from the factory like that, but I don't know.

Here's the issue: the E string bridge hole is too small for the green silk on the ball end of the E string to fit through. I mean, easy fix with an x-acto blade to trim some of the silk off so it would fit, but is that normal?

Sure, I've changed out the regular bridge on my '86 Jazz Bass Special (MIJ) to a LQ Badass II back in the day, but never had that problem. Of course I was using rounds, not flats then. Is this a known issue?

I recently moved one of my basses from EADG tuning to BEAD tuning, with the La Bella Jamerson set. I added a low B and then moved the rest of the strings down. The low B just barely fit in the post hole, and just as well, the string tension over the years had actually squeezed the slots so they were narrowed at the top. The B wouldn't fit in the E tuner, the E wouldn't fit in the A tuner, etc.
I had to take a big flathead screwdriver and hammer it into the slots to wedge them open.

 

[Lenny JG]

 

[Wisebass]

Hi Dave

A flat string that doesn't fit in a round hole?

Do you think these numbered machine bits would be available at a Home Depot or Lowes?

Ask for a conic step drillbit for metall "HSS"

Dont use a straight drill, it will likely break and your bass might be badly scratched,

because the angle has to fit (as close as possible to straight, which isn't easy without taking the bridge off the bass)

drilling a hole in a hole ain't for beginners!

I don't know Lowes or Home Depot (no such thing in Europe)

but every good hardware/ tool shop has these drills (even mom and pop shops!)

But!

When you aren't used to drill holes get a round file!

(safer than drilling a hole in a hole! and IMO the professional way to do that)

(might be a bit trickier to get one though) how big is the hole?

A chainsaw file is probably too fat. But round files exist in smaller sizes!

Measure!!!! Before you buy!

My set is the 9050L. Maybe the strings were made on a Friday? LOL!

Must be a Monday string!

Friday folks work faster to get home early (the strings are thinner on Fridays)


greetings

Wise(b)ass

 

[macmanlou]

Get yourself a set of needle files (less than $10 on Amazon). Use the round tapered one to enlarge the hole.

 

[Davebass77]

You can be sure the bridge will be removed from the body. Come to think of it, I have an old Dremel Moto-tool that might have a bit attachment that could fix this. Now, to find it....Wait! Needle files for the win!!

 

[Chop11777]

Throw a few layers of tape on the body and drill that baby out !
Go slow let the drill bit do the work or risk punching the bit thru the hole and scratching the crap out of your bridge plate
No biggie !!!

 

[JeezyMcNuggles]

Has anyone noticed this? Was trying to install new Fender 9050 flats on my 2008 Fender Highway One (1?) Jazz bass and something felt wrong with the E string.

Bought the bass used about 5 years ago and it came with a Leo Quan Badass II bridge installed. One of you Fender-philes can probably tell me if it came from the factory like that, but I don't know.

Here's the issue: the E string bridge hole is too small for the green silk on the ball end of the E string to fit through. I mean, easy fix with an x-acto blade to trim some of the silk off so it would fit, but is that normal?

Sure, I've changed out the regular bridge on my '86 Jazz Bass Special (MIJ) to a LQ Badass II back in the day, but never had that problem. Of course I was using rounds, not flats then. Is this a known issue?

I stead of trimming the silk everytime you replace a string, trim the hole once.

 

[iiipopes]

Appreciate the responses. Do you think these numbered machine bits would be available at a Home Depot or Lowes? @iiipopes - would you know the brand or type to ask for? Is this metric?

They are usually at specialty hardware stores. Some Ace hardware stores also have them, others don't. I found a set for my step-father's birthday at Harbor Freight. If you go this way instead of the needle files, which is also a good idea, if you can find one small enough, you will also need a micrometer to measure the thickest part of the stringwhere you say it binds, then take that measurement and cross-reference it to a machine bit chart to find the right diameter for the right numbered drill bit. Use the bit that is one size larger than your micrometer measurement of the thickest point of the string close to the ball anchor so the string will freely mount through the bridge. By this method, you assure the mounting hole is no larger than it needs to be so it doesn't weaken the bridge anchor, and it will be smooth and cylindrical. Once you drill, yes, a small needle file may be needed to chamfer or clean the hole if there is a burr, which can happen even when using the most care. Here's an example of a chart:

 

[garrett77]

Tune your bass AADG.

Just kidding. That’s a horrible idea.