Same here. I've never had to adjust the neck on my 2008 '62 AVRI Jazz. The neck is perfect on that one, perfect string height all the way up the neck, perfect frets, and it never moves.
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Fender American Vintage vs Custom Shop
- Thread starter Russell Bergum
- Start date
Same here. I've never had to adjust the neck on my 2008 '62 AVRI Jazz. The neck is perfect on that one, perfect string height all the way up the neck, perfect frets, and it never moves.
Engineering wise the likelihood that two small inclusions have a noticeable influence on the tonal palette of a wood neck are very low .. I'd also like to know how many tests on how many necks you have done to reach your conclusion ... mh.. for sure the neck is very stable considering it's thin structure (talking about the jazz bass) ... my MIJ neck is thicker but it moves sometimes although its behaviour improved considerably after subjecting it to a PLEK intervention.
On the other hand I have a MIJ PB70 with a very cheap but stable neck ... can't complain much.
On the other hand I have a MIJ PB70 with a very cheap but stable neck ... can't complain much.
Yeah, I wondered about the dead spots too. That said, I have yet to own a Fender bass where the dead spot thing has been a real issue. I have had a couple where it is certainly noticeable, but easily and subconsciously compensated for through attack.
For the first time I am struggling to balance string volume on a 7.25" neck with my CS 55P. I have never noticed it on a 7.25 J or P before, but for some reason the SCPB pickup on the 55 makes it quite obvious. I contemplated getting a pickup with raised magnets on the A and D strings, but I think I have got around it by changing string heights at the bridge to compensate and by putting on TI flats. For some reason Daddario chromes really over-emphasised the issue. I have never owned a bass where pup height makes such a huge difference to tone, it really is very sensitive and has a clear sweet spot. All that aside, I love the bass and it has its own special magic of neck and tone which stand it apart from the traditional P and J thing.
Yeah, this (lighter gauge strings) is quite a common remedy with necks that struggle to remain stable or that cannot get low enough relief. I long ago came to the conclusion with Fender bass necks that it is best to put the feeler gauges away when setting up the truss rod. I think the neck basically "talks" to you and tells you where it is going to be happy and you can do more harm than good trying to aim for a very light relief if the neck won't go there. I can get a reasonably low action and a nice feel (to me) with anywhere from 15 - 25 thou relief by paying greater attention to the nut, bridge and frets. Again, I do not obsess any more with measuring string height at the twelfth fret etc. as I know now what I like. Mind you, this is after 40 odd years of playing and having mutilated a few basses in my youth (as you do
).That said, if you want to obsess with a problem neck I always clamp the neck into a slight back bow before tightening the truss rod - as Dan Erlewine recommends. If you are a fiddler the other point worth mentioning is that Fender now sells the right washers to fit over the truss rod if the adjuster is disappearing into the neck hole.
I've owned AV RIs and CS basses...there is a definite difference in details both great and small...I've sworn off spending over $3k for another bass, and as much as I love the CS stuff, they're included, but many can be found under $3k all day and I'd get used CS over a new AV RI every time...nothing I've played beats the playability and care in craftsmanship in a Fender-type bass, and I've played almost everything I care to play...
God, I'd barely gig or tour with it..lol. That's the problem and why I love my AVRI so much. Perfect price point for a high level Pbass without crossing over into boutique (or as I call it - fear of touring with this bass) land.
That must be a very thin Lin between the two price points...I purchased a'59 P for about $200 less and than a new AVRI...it's all about finding a good deal, eapeyin the used market...
I got my AVRI for right under $1,300. It had never been owned before, but the shop did not have the ashtray or pickup cover and it had super small cracks on the finish that I can barely see.
A CS for the price you paid is a really nice deal. I have never seen one for Under 2k. I like to try and tour with instruments under $1,500.
Yeah $1,300 is indeed a very good deal..occasionally the CS stuff pops up here or Reverb under $2k...the "make an offer" button has been a very good friend indeed..
I also love my 63 avri P bass. I have never played a CS and would love to compare them.
Aside from the direct experience of people who owned and played both CS and the corresponding AVRI versions of the same type of bass, in the case of the YouTube video I mentioned earlier on, it would be nice to have an audio only version of it and check again the listeners' opinion ... maybe a well equipped TBer may arrange such a demonstrative session ...
After a while I'll change my own judgement getting more in line with @Midak and then:
1. CS59.
2. AVRI62.
3. Pino Palladino.
4. Select.
I am still intrigued by the CS 59 ...
