Tim1 I think you are right about the 300 being a little to much for them to work an attenuator into. I would still like to play through one someday, but for now I am happy with the weight and sound of the 100.
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Oh really? So all the engineers and players who are loving the sound of the DI obviously don't know what a good bass sound is, I guess. Especially those hacks with gold and platinum on the wall, LOL! BTW, did you learn anything about DI options on the 100T? And FYI, it's not a schematic, it's a block diagram, since we're being sticklers.Look at schematics...
If you don't think there's a speaker 'emulator', then I suggest you to DI the 'speaker out' via an appropriate DI box with a pad (the Radial JDI can do that). Then you'll hear how a real post power amp signal should sound!
Okay, I'll bite.I believe a lot of you 100T thread contributors are much happier (at least as evidenced by your posts) taking part in the SB300 or V4B threads. I encourage you to ignore us lesser mortals who willfully ( although apparently ignorantly) choose to celebrate the 100T. Goodbye!!
Marc
Certainly don't mind informed opinion from anyone who has experinece with the 100T vs. anything else. My problem is there's a lot of novice's who read threads like this for information to help them make decisions on gear, and when someone states incorrect info, or outright opinion, as fact, I see that as a problem. A perfect example is the whole 100W issue. You'll see someone state that they went from the 100T to the SB300 or whatever because 100 watts is just not enough power. Not "for my purposes or situation", and with any explanation, just state it likes it's law. There has been a lot of discussion on the 3 parts of this thread about that one topic, and both camps are correct. There are those like me who chose the 100T strictly for the lower power and the easy power tube distortion. Others, most notably Tim1, missed the dynamic punch at louder levels that the SB300 et al can deliver. But regardless of how many times it's been reasonably discussed, if all the newbie sees is the one post stating as a fact that 100 watts isn't enough, then he's likely to take that as gospel. So as long as it's presented in a way that offers discussion, that's what this should all be about. Not "this is right because I say it is", or "even though this is my opinon, only an idiot would want it any other way". Yes?
Okay, I'll bite.
As the OP (a long time ago) of this whole 100T thread, as one of the very first purchasers and advocates of the 100Tand in the interests of open debate, I stand by my rights to contribute to any thread I wish.
It does not reflect negatively in any way on the 100T to compare it with other heads, if you have the relevant experience of the other heads to do so. Rather it is to everyone's benefit to share opinions, surely? It is simply a case of horses for courses and whatever suits your style or personal preferences.
Open debate is no place for the overly sensitive, and debate has always been one of the strengths of this forum. Are we going to discourage people who have differing opinions to ours from voicing them................?
All that said, I continue to promote the 100T and have encouraged many others into its purchase - it remains in my mind the most versatile 100 watt head on the market. Just because I prefer the SB300 for my purposes does not make the 100T any lesser an amp. It would be a boring world, and indeed a boring thread, if we all voiced the same opinions.
As usual you have nailed it, Freight Train. Agree with you 100%.Certainly don't mind informed opinion from anyone who has experinece with the 100T vs. anything else. My problem is there's a lot of novice's who read threads like this for information to help them make decisions on gear, and when someone states incorrect info, or outright opinion, as fact, I see that as a problem. A perfect example is the whole 100W issue. You'll see someone state that they went from the 100T to the SB300 or whatever because 100 watts is just not enough power. Not "for my purposes or situation", and with any explanation, just state it likes it's law. There has been a lot of discussion on the 3 parts of this thread about that one topic, and both camps are correct. There are those like me who chose the 100T strictly for the lower power and the easy power tube distortion. Others, most notably Tim1, missed the dynamic punch at louder levels that the SB300 et al can deliver. But regardless of how many times it's been reasonably discussed, if all the newbie sees is the one post stating as a fact that 100 watts isn't enough, then he's likely to take that as gospel. So as long as it's presented in a way that offers discussion, that's what this should all be about. Not "this is right because I say it is", or "even though this is my opinon, only an idiot would want it any other way". Yes?
I have no experience at all in tube rolling other than sitting in for an evening while a guy rolled and compared on his amp while I drank beer. But you might consider that a more efficient cab could probably make a lot more difference that any power tube rolling possibly could. But only if you have a fairly inefficient cab now. If you move from a cab with say 96dB/watt/meter to one with 103dB/watt/meter efficiency, that is a 7dB increase in volume, which would be similiar to moving from a 100 watt to a 250 watt head, and you're not going to get that from rolling tubes. Also, even thoug this a generazation, a ported cab that is tuned more for a upper bass/low mid punch as opposed to a round bottom end will give you a lot more projection and presence live. Not saying of course you should buy a cab that you otherwise hate just because it's efficient. You should also analyze what you're doing in the low bottom end and determine if you're eq'ing your rig for more lows, say below 80hz, than you really need. If you're eq'ing things for a big huge round low bottom end, that will sap a LOT of available power from a low-wattage tube head.What tube compliment would you guys suggest to try to get a little more clean headroom from this amp?
I've found it just rests at the proper levels on top of a 212, but I'd like to have the option to go past the threshold of just loud enough. I have more cabs, but space is tight on the gigs we've been playing, so no 215. I could add the 210 on top, but i like the single cab solution.
As of right now, the 100T is the at-home and recording amp, while my SS Little Mark II has been getting gig time.
What tube compliment would you guys suggest to try to get a little more clean headroom from this amp?
I've found it just rests at the proper levels on top of a 212, but I'd like to have the option to go past the threshold of just loud enough. I have more cabs, but space is tight on the gigs we've been playing, so no 215. I could add the 210 on top, but i like the single cab solution.
As of right now, the 100T is the at-home and recording amp, while my SS Little Mark II has been getting gig time.
I have no experience at all in tube rolling other than sitting in for an evening while a guy rolled and compared on his amp while I drank beer. But you might consider that a more efficient cab could probably make a lot more difference that any power tube rolling possibly could. But only if you have a fairly inefficient cab now. If you move from a cab with say 96dB/watt/meter to one with 103dB/watt/meter efficiency, that is a 7dB increase in volume, which would be similiar to moving from a 100 watt to a 250 watt head, and you're not going to get that from rolling tubes. Also, even thoug this a generazation, a ported cab that is tuned more for a upper bass/low mid punch as opposed to a round bottom end will give you a lot more projection and presence live. Not saying of course you should buy a cab that you otherwise hate just because it's efficient. You should also analyze what you're doing in the low bottom end and determine if you're eq'ing your rig for more lows, say below 80hz, than you really need. If you're eq'ing things for a big huge round low bottom end, that will sap a LOT of available power from a low-wattage tube head.
Yeah, if that's all the eq you're doing, nothing outboard, then you're good. I have no experience with the cab at all. You'd have to check your specs and see what the sensitivity is. This is a total WAG, but I'd think for playing at rock levels with the 100T you'd need a cab with at least 100 - 101dB/watt/meter efficiency if you wanted to keep it out the wool.Mostly goes like this:
Gain 6-8 depending on bass
Bass 3
Mid 8-10
Treble 7-8
I have avatar neo 212/210, and a mesa diesel 215. I know that b212 isn't the most sensitive cabinet, but seems to do just fine projectionwise with 350 SS watts. Once again, I don't expect crystal clear quality at 100w, but would like a little less wool.