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Fender Fullerton Reissue club
- Thread starter mrpackerguy
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Somebody local is selling a never installed (though in excellent condition, not NOS/mint) Fullerton '57 P reissue neck made in '84. It has a TORRES stamp mark and pencilled date of 5-1-84 on the heel, includes the original/correct tuning machines (with tarnish) and bone nut. (no affiliation)
I'm considering what that might be reasonably worth and contemplating whether I want to make an offer and how much.
I'm considering what that might be reasonably worth and contemplating whether I want to make an offer and how much.
"For U.S. Vintage Series, check date on the neck for specific year" from Fender Guitars Serial Number Decoder - GuitarInsite
You can detach the pickguard and take photo. You will see REAL original color underneath. ^^
Question for you
I have two 57 AVRIs
The red one has a big gap between the end of the knobs and pickguard but the white one has a much smaller gap
How can I reduce the gap of the red one to be like the white one
I have two 57 AVRIs
The red one has a big gap between the end of the knobs and pickguard but the white one has a much smaller gap
How can I reduce the gap of the red one to be like the white one
Attachments
Unscrew the knobs using the Allen wrench screw. See if it's fully seated. I assume it is, but if not, set them, tighten the screw, and keep on playing.
pushed all the way down. Someone may have adjusted them to be that height for whatever reason, so just push them down after you loosen the screw.
if that doesnt work, you may be able to take the whole pickguard off, loosen the nut on the face side of the pot and tighten the nut on the other side to lower the hight of the entire pot, then the knob will be flush(er) with the pickguard if it is already fully seated.
“so just push them down after you loosen the screw”
yes done that
“tighten the nut on the other side to lower the hight of the entire pot”
There is only one nut and that is on top
There is no nut on the underside of the guard
I could add more washers?
yes done that
“tighten the nut on the other side to lower the hight of the entire pot”
There is only one nut and that is on top
There is no nut on the underside of the guard
I could add more washers?
Sure. That could work. Also, as it is, does it function, or is all this work just for aesthetics?
I typically place a thin guitar pick underneath my knobs when installing them. This gives me a little bit of space between the knob and the pickguard so that the knobs won’t rub. It also ensures all of the knobs are set at equal heights.
If the shaft of the pots are too high to allow your knobs to sit low, simply add a washer or a nut between the pot and the back side of the pickguard. Be careful to use a nut or a washer that won’t cause a short. I’ve seen instances of people breaking their pickguard by using their Superman strength in tightening the pot. Just get the top nut snug enough so that the pot won’t spin when your knob hits the end stops.
None of this is rocket science. It’s all fairly remedial. If you have any issues, simply post another message asking for help. Most everyone on this site will go to great lengths to offer advice.
If the shaft of the pots are too high to allow your knobs to sit low, simply add a washer or a nut between the pot and the back side of the pickguard. Be careful to use a nut or a washer that won’t cause a short. I’ve seen instances of people breaking their pickguard by using their Superman strength in tightening the pot. Just get the top nut snug enough so that the pot won’t spin when your knob hits the end stops.
None of this is rocket science. It’s all fairly remedial. If you have any issues, simply post another message asking for help. Most everyone on this site will go to great lengths to offer advice.
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Grinderman, I bought that neck. I needed it for one of my V000307 that had an incorrect neck and although it's an '84, it's as close to an '82 for what I paid that I'll ever find.
The neck could have been mounted before but not for long and the photo depictions are accurate. Truss nut still has the factory grease on it and it functions just fine. Frets have some original lacquer over spray. Tuners are super tight and the nut is perfect. There are two or three points that have slightly higher frets here and there but a fret dress will correct them. Fits like a glove and an un-regrettable purchase.
That's great. Good to find it turned out good for someone, an ideal match for your V000307.
I considered it for the high-end DIY P bass build I'm doing but I already had/have neck ordered from Musikraft.
Heya folks - wondering if anyone can shed light on a problem I'm having dating a Jazz bass that I may purchase; I think it may be a Fullerton, but it doesn't have a V serial number; it's on the neckplate, and is only 5 digits, which doesn't line up with any info I've found online for any reissues. Nowhere on the bass does it denote the country of manufacture either. The neck stamp reads "8-23-83" written in pencil. If I use a serial number lookup, it comes up as a '61, which it is not. I have heard of the Custom Shop using 5 digit serials, but I don't think they were a yet thing back in '83 - Fullerton line was the precursor to CS if I have my info correct.
Given the transition logo and lack of an "E" serial number, it appears to be a 62 reissue, but it has a three knob control plate, not two stacked. I read earlier in this thread that early models came with both (stack installed, 3 knob plate included if preferred). It does have bridge and pickup covers, and a spiral saddle bridge, and cloth wiring. "Contour Body" decal is at the far end of the headstock, near the curve. Single dot inlays, not block. Slab rosewood, not curved/veneer. It has a case that looks like the 80's reissues.
Thanks so much for any info anyone can give me.
Given the transition logo and lack of an "E" serial number, it appears to be a 62 reissue, but it has a three knob control plate, not two stacked. I read earlier in this thread that early models came with both (stack installed, 3 knob plate included if preferred). It does have bridge and pickup covers, and a spiral saddle bridge, and cloth wiring. "Contour Body" decal is at the far end of the headstock, near the curve. Single dot inlays, not block. Slab rosewood, not curved/veneer. It has a case that looks like the 80's reissues.
Thanks so much for any info anyone can give me.
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Yes - just 5 digits. I considered that as well, but it's such a strange thing to replace; seems unlikely to me. I've been told it's one owner, and it looks in mint condition for an '83. If it weren't for the penciled neck date stamp, I'd be more sceptical.
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