• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Fender Fullerton Reissue club

Here are some pics of my case if anyone is interested - still has the price tag on (£850 bought in 2016) and one of the original pots inside which I forgot was there. It smells like it's from 1983 too!
 

Attachments

  • 20210921_163201.jpg
    20210921_163201.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 83
  • 20210921_163259.jpg
    20210921_163259.jpg
    742.1 KB · Views: 77
  • 20210921_163312.jpg
    20210921_163312.jpg
    877.3 KB · Views: 84
  • 20210921_163327.jpg
    20210921_163327.jpg
    735 KB · Views: 76
  • 20210921_163413.jpg
    20210921_163413.jpg
    244.6 KB · Views: 76
Hi there,

Is the depth of the truss rod nut a concern on this Fullerton 83 Jazz ?
I have seen truss rods that deep being maxed, and other not... Seller says the truss rod is ok but I have never had a "Fullerton" bass so any advice is welcome !

Picture :
Capture.JPG
 
I cannot check the bass in person unfortunately.

I’ve seen truss nuts that are buried much deeper into the neck, but I’ve also seen many (such as mine, for example) that are near to the surface.

D031A454-8614-4536-A5CB-BC5CDC5E3F54.jpeg


The key is to check the relief on the neck itself. Use a capo on the first fret and hold the G string down on the 15th fret. The gap between the bottom of the string and the top of the 8th fret should measure about .3mm.

A typical thin pick is around .4mm. (A typical medium guitar pick is closer to .7mm and a heavy pick averages around .9mm). So if you can fit a thin guitar pick between the G string and the 8th fret and it just barely rubs your relief is pretty close.

If the relief is higher (i.e., there is too much gap) you’ll need to tighten the truss rod to increase the effect of the truss rod - which could pull the nut deeper into the wood of the neck. If the relief is too low, you’d loosen the truss nut to allow the string tension to pull the neck into shape and achieve the proper relief.

Personally, I don’t like to use the truss nut to do all of the work. I prefer to secure the body of my bass onto a sturdy platform such as a table and GENTLY apply a very small amount of downward pressure to the headstock. I then tighten the truss nut and GENTLY release pressure on the headstock. This is how Rickenbacker suggests that truss rods on the old 4001 basses were to be adjusted, but the same technique can be performed on any instrument with a truss rod.

As always, take special care as it is very possible to strip the truss rod or damage your instrument.

 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: D Bopp and Eneade
One more thing…

Having worked on a few dozen late 70’s to mid 80’s Fender necks I’ve noticed that the holes drilled into the heal of the necks can vary in depth. Some came from the factory with the truss nut being flush with the butt end of the neck and some necks were drilled deeper. In fact, I’ve seen a few truss nuts that are very very deep (almost 4mms or so) and some that actually protruded past the butt of the neck.

The early AVRI models tend to show MUCH MUCH better workmanship and care. Compared to today’s CNC standards and considering their age, the AVRIs fare very well indeed. Some of those mid to late 70’s basses, however, could be downright embarrassing.
 
While I'm at it, another great find. Plays outstandingly.
I had to change the pickups and the original neck was missing but otherwise it's all there. 2008 Road Worn P Bass neck fits like a glove and lines up perfectly. Prices on original 82 necks are insane.
Pots date to week 6 of 81. Earliest pot date on any reissue I've seen. This makes #4 of the 82's I have.

AA4.jpg
'82 P 1.jpg
 
Last edited:
Hello all,
I'm wondering if any fellow club members here can help me acquire some original accessories for a 1984 '62 precision? I need a complete set of pickup and bridge covers, and any spare case candy or other era-correct memorabilia would be neat additions as well. If anyone here has anything they're willing to unload for some value, let's get in touch?
 

Latest posts