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Discussion in 'Basses [BG]' started by Geroi Asfalta, Apr 11, 2012.
Yes mine is all original, I resoldered the wiring when I got it and it looked and sounded great.
Just looks like every other PJ bass. Think Duff McKagen.
Yes I see what you mean.
I was actually going more for this look but I wanted the lighter weight and didn’t want to pay $2,000
You’re on it! I love the black-on-black myself, as a nice antidote to my other more wild-look8mg instruments.
You, sir, are JP90 Club #28. As you see, we’re smaller and more selective in here...
New here on talkbass. I've got a JP-90 (#N013033 for those who care) that's been my wife's primary instrument for about 20 years. We both love it. The light weight is perfect for her (and me, as I play it sometimes too!). We need some help though. The volume and tone pots have needed to be replaced for some time, but I'm not sure what to order. I've got a new pickguard in my cart at WDMusic.com and would like to order pots at the same time. Anyone here able to point me towards the specific pots? Thanks!
Hey! Warm welcome to TalkBass; it's rare to bring a new member into the JP90 Club, but you (and/or your wife) are officially
JP90 Club Member Number 29!!!!
As for your question, here's what I can tell you. Assuming you've got stock pickups, the pots in there now will probably be minis, so this would be a great opportunity to plus up to something like a full-size CTS. Original specs called for 500k pots and a .068mfd capacitor for your rewire. If your switch needs replacing, I'd imagine any mini-switch would work.
Do keep the stock pickups in there; they're first-line contemporary MIA Fender quality.
Again, welcome. Don't hesitate to bring up anything else.
#29 it is! Thanks Picton! So far as I know, there are no mods and we have no intention of doing so. My wife loves the tone (and so do I) and since she's not a fan of change, we'll leave it as is. LOL!
3 way mini switch is still good. Until I read through this thread, I had no idea that the JP had such nice MIA pickups.
I believe what I'm looking for in replacement pots are 2 split shaft 500k pots like these (shorter shaft), right?
CTS Control Pots | stewmac.com
And this capacitor, right?
Sprague® Orange Drop Tone Capacitor .068uF
Thanks for the help and quick response!
Honestly, I'm not sure about which shaft you should get; others might be. I'm away from home (and my bass) at the moment, but others might chime in. But they're the same knobs Fender used for Strats, so whatever the internet recommends for those is probably correct. Short shaft, definitely, and I THINK the splits are the way to go.
Those pots and caps will work fine.
Awesome! Thanks Picton.
Just a follow up on my JP-90 upgrade. The results are spectacular. The tone is more detailed and present and our old baby sounds better than ever. Thanks for all of the guidance by Talkbass members!
Nice, and thanks for the follow up.
I picked up a G&L SB2 in the white color I was looking for, but keep going back to my JP-90.
I picked one of these up at a local pawnshop, about a month ago. A bit of a story here, this thing was beat up,
rusty strings, and looked every bit of its 29 yrs. The neck had some blotches, and the body was beat up pretty good,
but it did seemed to play ok, so...
I did a bunch of research, and realized it had to be a early 90's - 91', (no skunk back neck) (took neck off, 1990)
Dug up the money, went and purchased it, took it home changed strings and tuned her up, yikes,
...the neck seemed to bow before my eyes, I was bummed, so I took it to a guy who usually does great neck work.
He messed with it for a while, couldn't get the neck to straighten up, and told me the neck was shot, bad design, blah, blah...
He said I might take the nut off of the truss, and put some washers in, then try to crank it, to see if that would help the bow.
I let it sit for a couple of weeks, looking at replacement necks, but, I really wanted to keep the original neck.
So, yesterday, I put 1 washer in the cavity and put the screw nut back on, and cranked it a few turns, pulled the neck back!
I was afraid to put strings on it, and have it bow again, and it didn't bow!!!
...tuned her up, set intonation, played it a bit, cranked the rod once more, and she plays great, now off to rehearsal
This bass sounds great, lighter than my Jazz, playing was smooth, my new/old go to for sure,
I had purchased a used Squire Jaguar short scale last week, the PJ-90 plays and sounds like what I was wanting, ...yea!!! The Jag is just ok.
Some TLC to the fretboard, sanded the back of the neck, linseed oiled, plays great,
...got me a good one
...anybody passin' out numbers, ("feel like a number" - with the Bob Segar voice)
That's a fantastic story! Congrats.
The ones without skunk stripes are thought to have less disaster-prone necks, but who really knows? Anyway, I'm glad you've got yours working. Enjoy it.
Some call us a small club. I think of us as "select." And you, mule, are officially Number 30!!!!
Great story, and nice to see one without a skunk stripe.
So, I've read this entire thread and I'm now unlikely to purchase this bass at the current price. Love the look, particularly with the red guard, but i can't get it in my hands before purchase. It's a skunk stripe neck and he's asking $900 (NZd....around $580 USd) with a buy it now of $1000 so I'll probably let it go. I'd be willing to pay $800 if it doesn't sell at auction. It has Nordstrand pickups, and VBT controls.
They’re typically 5-600 USD basses here in the States, stock. You’d need to weigh the added value of all the mods, including the bridge and PG, to see how much you think all of it’s worth. Me, I like the stock pickups and wiring, though I have installed a BAII bridge.
In my experience (limited, for sure), these usually show their flaws quickly if they’re going to show them at all, particularly where the trussrod is concerned.
Only a coupe of years ago, they were going for $385 US on Ebay, and not in the best of shape. Looks like my investment is finally paying off.
I don't know what number I am here, but I've owned a JP-90 since brand new in 1993. Been thinning the herd a bit, decided to keep the JP90 and let go of some other gear, including some more expensive basses and guitars. (Neck stamp is 1993).
I grabbed the JP90 when they went on clearance at Guitar Center, way back when. I was getting more into bass, borrowing an instrument from friends and got my own. The one I picked out of the pile felt really great, neck was smooth and easy and quite straight.
What's great about the JP-90 is that is comfortable. It's light, slim, plays well, feels quite ergonomic. The neck and string alignment on mine are perfect. The neck has held up over the years very well. It's still very straight, buzz free. Only mod was done early on. Bad-Ass II bridge in black. Looks great on a black-on-black bass.
What's not so great: Some cut rate electronics, pickups, and in my case, some really odd workmanship.
My bass was manufactured with the pickups drilled and installed in the wrong place. They're quite far off the mark. Pickups are like horseshoes and close is good enough, but these were about 1/4" off target, and the factory hand filed the pickguard cutouts pretty generously to get it fitted to the body. I played it and ignored it, but it has always had a kind of "lumpy" wolfy tone, that I attribute to both the misalignment and the Squire import-type ceramic magnet pickups.
The minipots work ok, but they have required a number of cleanings over the years and don't have the feel of the full size pots.
I recently set about the task of fixing her up.
Some data, if you're curious:
•Pots are 500k, A-taper - mini "import" types, with a metric bushing and the body route at the tone pot will not accommodate a standard USA pot at the factory position.
•Output jack is also an "import" type, as a standard switchcraft part will not fit the route easily.
•The pickups are ceramic magnet, epoxy potted, integral covers, same as found on import Squire basses.
•Pickguard is single-ply, .060".
•No shielding at all is present, not even foil tape on the pickguard.
•The "J" bridge pickup is actually a *neck* size J-pickup, not a bridge sized J-pickup. This makes changing pickups a little more complicated, as the pickguard may need to be trimmed, the bridge pickup is 1/8" wider and the screw ears very slightly wider spaced than the neck pickup.
•The nut is 1.5", 1.144" E-to-G spacing, 1/8" wide and about 0.190" high. This is the less-common curved bottom J-bass nut. (PT-1215, etc if you need to replace it).
Plug all the original pickup screw holes and the pickguard screw holes, since they're all wrongly placed.
Install a set of Fender Yosemite P-J pickups, in proper alignment with the strings.
Replace pickguard with new, higher quality one.
Install copper shielding foil.
Consider alternate wiring/control layouts.
Stay tuned for more of the story...
I have one of these.( Not Sure I Posted Here Already) I don't play it much anymore. But it is one of the most complimented bass (sound wise) that I have ever giged with !? Looking to use it as a trade in (or sell)on my next bass purchase.
That's weird, about the pickups being in the wrong place. Pics!
And, when you post them, you'll be Number 31!
Post a pic or two. If you trade it at a place like GC, I doubt they'd give you much; they offer them used for $4-500.