Fender Mustang Club

[Doctor Morbius]

Well, my photography skills really stink so I'm just going to upload a few pics of the actual article. As you can see in one of the pics, this was a "used" product so I saved a few extra buckaroos.

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

 

[OtherLisa]

• Shell Pink
• Sonic Blue
• Surf Green (incoming)

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

Oh man. I so want a Surf Green! I didn't know they were doing the MIM PJ in Surf Green! I have uhhhh I think it's called Sonic Blue, which I do like. But as I've complained before, a lot of the Mustangs other than the MIM PJ and the Squier have a wider nut than I like. So I've been eying the Squier Classic Vibes in Surf Green.

I have blown my bass budget several times over for the year. I got the Acinonyx—which I'd wanted in Surf Green but those were way sold out. I got my second choice, black with tort pickguard, which I think is tres sexy.

But I still want a bass in Surf Green, dang it.

 

[OtherLisa]

I replaced the 3 way switch with a blend knob on one of my P/J Mustangs.
It's one of the older ones when they first came out and the switch was a problem right from the start, always cutting in and out.
No problems with the blend knob. I like it much better.

I did the same thing. I'm pretty much very unsavvy when it comes to many aspects of music tech, but I knew that I did not like that switch, I just didn't like it. I wanted a knob. I got a knob. It is better.

 

[halfwound121]

I'm going to put DiMarzio Model PJ DP 126 pickups in my Mustang PJ and upgrade the electronics and bridge.

I'm trying to decide on how best to wire it though.

I've been reading through a lot of old posts here about PJ wiring setups and I'm leaning towards either VT VT with a 3-way selector or just doing VVT and replacing the switch with one of the controls.

Any advice based on your experience would be appreciated. Thanks!

I tried a couple of configurations, and I ended up with VT VT and kept the 3-way switch, so it looks somewhat as intended. Be careful ordering pots, though, because the control plate takes smaller diameter bushings. Regular 3/8" pots will not fit. I used Noble pots I found on Bestbassgear which fit the holes.

 

[cratz2]

Looking good guys!

 

[Robot.G]

I tried a couple of configurations, and I ended up with VT VT and kept the 3-way switch, so it looks somewhat as intended. Be careful ordering pots, though, because the control plate takes smaller diameter bushings. Regular 3/8" pots will not fit. I used Noble pots I found on Bestbassgear which fit the holes.

I almost bought an American Vintage 62 Jazz Bass Wiring Kit from Bestbassgear, but I thought it would be best to score a new Mustang control plate before I did so. Thanks for the heads-up on the control plate!

 

[halfwound121]

I almost bought an American Vintage 62 Jazz Bass Wiring Kit from Bestbassgear, but I thought it would be best to score a new Mustang control plate before I did so. Thanks for the heads-up on the control plate!

I don't think their standard J wiring kit will work.

 

[Robot.G]

I don't think their standard J wiring kit will work.

The J bass control plate from the kit obviously won't work and my replacement Mustang control plate will need to be drilled to 3/8", but otherwise what would be the issue with using the authentic Fender VT VT pots? I guess I should measure the depth and width of the routes in the body to make sure they will fit. Thanks for the heads up on the Noble pots. I'll look into those!

 

[halfwound121]

I've never had luck drilling chrome parts. My workmanship (and workshop) is not close to professional, though, so you may not have an issue. If the J pots fit into the routing, you might try drilling your old plate first just to see how it goes.

 

[Robot.G]

I've never had luck drilling chrome parts. My workmanship (and workshop) is not close to professional, though, so you may not have an issue. If the J pots fit into the routing, you might try drilling your old plate first just to see how it goes.

I have a drill press at work that I can use.

Again, thanks for the feedback on the Noble pots. That might be a better option.

I'm really thinking VT VT plus the switch is going to be the best route here.

How do you find yourself using that setup?

 

[2cooltoolz]

The J bass control plate from the kit obviously won't work and my replacement Mustang control plate will need to be drilled to 3/8", but otherwise what would be the issue with using the authentic Fender VT VT pots? I guess I should measure the depth and width of the routes in the body to make sure they will fit. Thanks for the heads up on the Noble pots. I'll look into those!

It's been a while, and I can't access my Mustang right now (I'll try to check when the family rises from their crypts), but I think you might be a bit cramped on a stacked pot on the rear (bridge side) of the control plate. I used a CTS stacked pot, wired V/V, on mine and I believe my tone pot (single/master) is a mini CTS. I have a couple PJ Precisions, and due to the tight rear-most routing (intended for a jack on Ps) I used minis on those for tone.

I used a switchcraft 3-way selector and sawed the switch in half to reduce accidental changes. Helped a little.

 

[halfwound121]

I have a drill press at work that I can use.

Again, thanks for the feedback on the Noble pots. That might be a better option.

I'm really thinking VT VT plus the switch is going to be the best route here.

How do you find yourself using that setup?

I kept the original switch, which was a mistake. It cuts out easily when touched accidentally. I intend to replace it with another 3-way. I used smaller diameter knobs (Hipshot) and I have no issues with spacing on the control plate. Regardless, I don’t change my setting often, and the switch is most helpful when I just want to solo the P.

 

[Robot.G]

It's been a while, and I can't access my Mustang right now (I'll try to check when the family rises from their crypts), but I think you might be a bit cramped on a stacked pot on the rear (bridge side) of the control plate. I used a CTS stacked pot, wired V/V, on mine and I believe my tone pot (single/master) is a mini CTS. I have a couple PJ Precisions, and due to the tight rear-most routing (intended for a jack on Ps) I used minis on those for tone.

I used a switchcraft 3-way selector and sawed the switch in half to reduce accidental changes. Helped a little.
View attachment 4713702

View attachment 4713703View attachment 4713705

That's the other setup that I was considering. VVT with a better switch of course.

I ordered a new "Switchcraft toggle" from Amazon but it was a fake! Ugh!

 

[Doctor Morbius]

Anyone have an extra tort guard just lying around collecting dust? I can't justify $45 for a new WD guard. I'm way too cheap for that.

 

[Dewdman42]

Anyone happen to know the weight of the tuners used on current American performer mustang bass? Fender describes them as being "Fender® "F" Light-Weight Vintage-Paddle Keys with Tapered Shafts"

This must be something that is lighter than standard? If so, by how much? I asked Fender and they responded by saying they don't have the weights documented.

Just trying to determine how much weight would be saved on the headstock by getting HipShot tuners or if that even makes sense...trying to tame my neck dive a little.

 

[Greywoulf]

Anyone happen to know the weight of the tuners used on current American performer mustang bass? Fender describes them as being "Fender® "F" Light-Weight Vintage-Paddle Keys with Tapered Shafts"

This must be something that is lighter than standard? If so, by how much? I asked Fender and they responded by saying they don't have the weights documented.

Just trying to determine how much weight would be saved on the headstock by getting HipShot tuners or if that even makes sense...trying to tame my neck dive a little.

Take a look in the Squier/Fender Little Pups club thread. There's some details there re installing Hipshot Ultralights on a Mustang...

 

[Dewdman42]

right I will check there, I'm first trying to find out if the American performer already has lighter tuners and whether its even worth buying hip shots at all.

 

[2cooltoolz]

Anyone happen to know the weight of the tuners used on current American performer mustang bass? Fender describes them as being "Fender® "F" Light-Weight Vintage-Paddle Keys with Tapered Shafts"

This AmPerf Mustang's head pic is from Fender's site. I believe it's the same tuning machine as the one I weighed. Mine was from a Jazz build. My list of weights are a mix of manufacturers specs (Hipshot (USA only)) and my Fender measured weights. Grain of salt, always.

BASS Tuners WEIGHTS
Hipshot ULTRALITE 3/8” MINI CLOVER KEY 1.59oz [45g]
Hipshot ULTRALITE 3/8” LOLLIPOP KEY 1.69oz [48g]
Hipshot AMERICAN CLASSIC HB10 2.9oz
Hipshot ULTRALITE 1-2 LOLLY KEY 1.93oz [55g]
Fender AmPro F-Logo Fluted Shaft 099-2006-000 2.6oz
Fender American Standard 007-5116-000 2.6oz
Fender Mexican Standard/Player 003-6400-049 2.9oz

 

[Dewdman42]

here's the spec sheet Fender sent me...

part number: 7710693000 KEY BASS DLX NEW MOD TAPER LONG

 

[2cooltoolz]

here's the spec sheet Fender sent me...
part number: 7710693000 KEY BASS DLX NEW MOD TAPER LONG

Yeah. Fender and their numbers!
The number from their service manual is the same as the machine I weighed, above. So, I think the 2.6 oz. thing is probably correct.
With the Hipshot Clover keys, about a 4.04 oz total weight savings; 3.64 saved with the Hipshot Lolly keys. I bet it would make a significant difference in the dive, but pretty expensive if you go with the USA Hipshots, and leaves those ugly holes in the head .
Mine has the Hipshot HB10s, which are great machines, but pretty heavy at 2.9 oz. I actually ordered a set of the Lollipop Hipshots, holes be damned, but they were backordered at the time with a couple month wait, so I cancelled. I ended up just making the strap extender pictured a couple posts up.