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Fender Mustang Club

There's affordable tuners out there. My Snark pedal tuner was $35 on Amazon. I like that I can see it's big display in sunlight.
Thanks to all of you. I went ahead and purchased a Donner dt1 and yes I had to get the power supply. That urks me. But I'm over it. It ended up $35. I don't feel tooooo taken. My bass teacher had a PEWaves that he had for sale for the same price but I notice that TRUE was spelled TURE so I went ahead and passed. I will do the measure ment tomorrow G. Also thanks on the saddle screw heads up. I have run into that issue before but at my age a gentle reminder is always helpful. Trough this all it was also discovered that the P pups were replaced backwards after the invidual finished shielding the cavities. Gave it a real Gomer Pyle sound. I switched them around and now it has a real rich Jim Neighbors tone to it. If I ever find that tech that did the shielding I will.........
I know that has nothing to do with intonation but I thought everyone could use a chuckle. I will post the results tomorrow.
Thanks all
Bob
 
I finally remembered to have someone take a picture of me with the mustang pj at a gig, so here it be, dimarzio p/j, hipshot, high mass bridge, and tort pickguard. Labella low tension flats, I love them on this bass - I installed yesterday and they were not annoyingly bright tonight, they sound somewhat broken in already but I know I'll love them even more in about 3-4 weeks.


View attachment 3432354

Nice!
 
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Bob, it may not be your tuner that's the problem.

Use a tape measure and check to be sure your bridge saddles's movement is in the area that is twice the distance from the fretboard side of the nut to the 12th fret. If your bridge is too close to the neck, you will always be sharp.

Read the section "Set Your Intonation" near the bottom of this webpage: Invalid Link Removed
.

So. It is 15" from inside of the nut to the 12th fret an 16" from the 12th fret to the saddle movement with my voo doo limited math comes out to 31". I believe that is the parameter you were describing correct? Or did I miss a step, which could be very likely since the shielding tech I described in my backwards pickup installation post was actually me.
Thanks G
Bob
 
So. It is 15" from inside of the nut to the 12th fret an 16" from the 12th fret to the saddle movement with my voo doo limited math comes out to 31". I believe that is the parameter you were describing correct? Or did I miss a step, which could be very likely since the shielding tech I described in my backwards pickup installation post was actually me.
Thanks G
Bob

The 15" measurement from the nut to the 12th fret means it's a 30" scale, so the string witness point at the saddle should be just a bit longer than 30" for intonation. Thicker strings tend to intonate a bit longer than thinner strings but your 16" measurement from the 12th fret to the saddle witness point is too long. I'd start by moving the saddles closer to the nut.
 
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The 15" measurement from the nut to the 12th fret means it's a 30" scale, so the string witness point at the saddle should be just a bit longer than 30" for intonation. Thicker strings tend to intonate a bit longer than thinner strings but your 16" measurement from the 12th fret to the saddle witness point is too long. I'd start by moving the saddles closer to the nut.

Thank you,
So I am understanding that would require drilling new mounting holes correct?
What should the desired distance be? 30" total? Or 15" from the 12th fret to the saddle movement?
Bob
 
The 15" measurement from the nut to the 12th fret means it's a 30" scale, so the string witness point at the saddle should be just a bit longer than 30" for intonation. Thicker strings tend to intonate a bit longer than thinner strings but your 16" measurement from the 12th fret to the saddle witness point is too long. I'd start by moving the saddles closer to the nut.
The 15" measurement from the nut to the 12th fret means it's a 30" scale, so the string witness point at the saddle should be just a bit longer than 30" for intonation. Thicker strings tend to intonate a bit longer than thinner strings but your 16" measurement from the 12th fret to the saddle witness point is too long. I'd start by moving the saddles closer to the nut.

I think I totally misunderstood you. I initially thought you meant move the "Bridge" closer to the nut and then re-read your post and realized you were referring to the saddles themselves by virtue of the saddle adjustmen screw. Have I arrived to the correct page this time? Sorry for my confusion.
Bob
 
Thank you,
So I am understanding that would require drilling new mounting holes correct?
What should the desired distance be? 30" total? Or 15" from the 12th fret to the saddle movement?
Bob
I’d be loathe to dill holes. Not a huge deal, but you’ll want to plug the holes and hope they’ll be covered by the bridge. Do you still have the stock bridge? If so, consider putting it back on and see how it intonates. If all is well that way, it sounds like that high mass bridge may not be a direct drop-in for the Mustang and you may want to go with a different high mass, if that’s what you prefer. I know a lot of people like the aesthetics of them even if they can’t tell any difference in sustain. The Fender high mass is rumored to be a direct drop-in, but I don’t know for sure. I’ve got the stock bridge on my Mustang and intend to keep it that way...
 
I have the Fender High Mass bridge on my Mustang and it is indeed a direct drop in with the existing screw pattern. It is also a longer bridge with a lot more room for intonation. Mine intonates perfectly.

92AF47C2-5394-4E31-A0A8-1B8CA2B2AD07.jpeg
 
Keep in mind in that pic I have Thomastik jazz flatwounds installed and they tend to intonate a bit differently than other strings(probably because of the round core and construction of the string). So the E looks like I have the saddle up to far, however it is dead on. With this bridge the bass has intonated perfectly with any strings I have used on it.
 
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Thank you,
So I am understanding that would require drilling new mounting holes correct?
What should the desired distance be? 30" total? Or 15" from the 12th fret to the saddle movement?
Bob

I installed this hi-mass bridge on my Mustang PJ:

Hipshot Brass A-Style Bass Bridge Mount

Three of the five holes lined up perfectly (no drilling), easy intonation, less neck dive and a bonus...top string loading makes for easy string changes.

https://www.amazon.com/d/Bass-Guitar-Bridges-Parts/Hipshot-Brass-Style-Bridge-Mount/B003XVO45K
 
As an Amazon Associate, TalkBass may receive commissions from qualifying purchases made via links on this site.
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I’d be loathe to dill holes. Not a huge deal, but you’ll want to plug the holes and hope they’ll be covered by the bridge. Do you still have the stock bridge? If so, consider putting it back on and see how it intonates. If all is well that way, it sounds like that high mass bridge may not be a direct drop-in for the Mustang and you may want to go with a different high mass, if that’s what you prefer. I know a lot of people like the aesthetics of them even if they can’t tell any difference in sustain. The Fender high mass is rumored to be a direct drop-in, but I don’t know for sure. I’ve got the stock bridge on my Mustang and intend to keep it that way...
I’d be loathe to dill holes. Not a huge deal, but you’ll want to plug the holes and hope they’ll be covered by the bridge. Do you still have the stock bridge? If so, consider putting it back on and see how it intonates. If all is well that way, it sounds like that high mass bridge may not be a direct drop-in for the Mustang and you may want to go with a different high mass, if that’s what you prefer. I know a lot of people like the aesthetics of them even if they can’t tell any difference in sustain. The Fender high mass is rumored to be a direct drop-in, but I don’t know for sure. I’ve got the stock bridge on my Mustang and intend to keep it that way...

First I will answer your questions.
Yes I still have the stock bridge and as usual the thought of reinstalling it and checkng the intonation did not cross my mind.
I did not install the Hipshot bridge for asthetics that was a pleasant suprise. I installed it to help with the neck dive as my RA was accelerating and standing becoming increasingly uncomfortable. But I do admit I really do like the look. If the bridge was to be moved toward the nut there is only about 3/4" of space to the J pup. But from the anchor holes to the back of the bridge it is 1" so the holes would be covered. My initial rsponse to moving the bridge was going to be I think I wll measure twice and exhaust all recommendations first before moving in that direction. I see I have 2 alerts so that might be a mute point.
Finally intonation had never been a problem until recently. The only change made was installing a set of flatwounds that cam highly recommended on the RA thread here. But due to my limitations and not able to shorten the silk I used medium scale which were perfect but for the E string where the metal went around the post by a quarter of a turn. I was assured by a gutarist with 60 years of experience and who I know very well and trust that this should not be an issue. I hope I answered your questons and provided a bit more info that could help.
Thank you for your input I do aporeciate it.
Bob
 
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I think I totally misunderstood you. I initially thought you meant move the "Bridge" closer to the nut and then re-read your post and realized you were referring to the saddles themselves by virtue of the saddle adjustmen screw. Have I arrived to the correct page this time? Sorry for my confusion.
Bob

Yes, just the saddles should be moved but if the bridgeplate is placed too far back for the saddles to compensate enough to provide correct intonation the bridge may need to be relocated or a bridge with a longer saddle travel substituted.
 
The very last thing I have done, thanks to a email I received from Hipshot support, is to measure my string to string spacing which they stated should be 19mm. I checked with a micrometer and the spacing between the G and D was 21mm and the spacing betwen the A and E was 22mm. So I re-spaced so all of the strings are now at 19mm.
Suddenly I can intonate. I knew nothing about string spacing. I only did it because I thought the string might be binding the saddle adjustment screw. I didn't know that spacing was to be measured. But I don't think that was the primary fix. IMHO I feel it was a combo of all the suggestions and input. But I am not willing to go backwards to find which ones. Backwards pups were enough.
Bob
 
The very last thing I have done, thanks to a email I received from Hipshot support, is to measure my string to string spacing which they stated should be 19mm. I checked with a micrometer and the spacing between the G and D was 21mm and the spacing betwen the A and E was 22mm. So I re-spaced so all of the strings are now at 19mm.
Suddenly I can intonate. I knew nothing about string spacing. I only did it because I thought the string might be binding the saddle adjustment screw. I didn't know that spacing was to be measured. But I don't think that was the primary fix. IMHO I feel it was a combo of all the suggestions and input. But I am not willing to go backwards to find which ones. Backwards pups were enough.
Bob
Awesome! Impressive customer support from Hipshot. Pretty sure I’m going with them when I do the tuner swap.