• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Fender Rumble Club

That is my experience and I have seen links to you on TalkBass from the Fender site, so trust me, I would listen to you first. My question then is why would someone recommend turning the Master all the way up and controlling volume with the Gain? That would disturb neighbors, increase my tinnitus AND scare the be-jeebus out of my rabbits.
Anyhow, it's caused me to start playing with it and the results are educational. Thanks Linnin, I ask you first because I think you are the guy that knows. I have a lot to learn.
That's common with other SS amps, notably the GK 400RB/800RB, to get a certain "grindy" tone. If you see someone refer to a SS amp "on the rails", this is what they are referring to. I believe Rumbles are probably best using the gain in a more traditional fashion (adjust for tone and hotness of pickups) while using the master for volume adjustments, though I haven't actually tried "on the rails" with a Rumble.
 
I haven't actually tried "on the rails" with a Rumble.
Sounds good with my Rumble 200 combo. Master volume controls are attenuators by nature. You can only turn the volume down from wide open, but we don't think of it in that way. We say we are turning up the volume, but that is a misnomer. In the days of tube amps with channel volumes and no masters, the power amp was wide open all the time. The only volume control was the pre-amp channel volume. You crank it up louder 'n' hell and you get the tube distortion. There were no little noise boxes until the late 60's and early 70's. Master volumes also came into being and that changed everything and gain structure suddenly became very important.
 
Thank you brother!
You know, I want to thank you for your patience, I have been playing around with the settings on the Rumble 500 and I have that P Noir bass. I don't care what anyone says that is a fine version of a P Bass. I was a Jazz aficionado but this P is the real deal. I am really considering the P Bass as the master bass for most applications. Thanks for all your input.
 
Ok Rumblers I have a question about weight that I don't understand. How is it that the 210 combo weighs 36.5 lbs and the 210 extension cabinet weighs 39 lbs? Wouldn't the combo with the amp in it be heavier?
They designed that cab for guys (idiots) like ME that would try to make that cab do more than what it's design to do and I have pushed it too. I have pushed 800 into it (briefly). So I suspect they knew I was buying one:) Where as you can only push the 210c only so much because the watts are controlled. All joking aside- I think the 210 cab has better construction/materials maybe for the reason I gave- I'm guessing too:thumbsup:
 
  • Like
Reactions: StrangerDanger
Gain can do different functions in different amp designs. The basic things I find gain useful for are :
Compensating for weak or too strong signal from the guitar. Your guitar may not be able to drive the power amp to full power with the input gain flat. Or it may cause overdrive and clipping, so acts as a power amp clipping limiter.
Can be used to overdrive the pre-amp without overdriving the power amp.
Can have effect on the pre-amp and equalizer section distortion and bandwidth, and induce changes in the timbre or as some call it, the way it sounds.
I have seen the gain control change the sound from thin to thick, best I can describe it.
 
Ok Rumblers I have a question about weight that I don't understand. How is it that the 210 combo weighs 36.5 lbs and the 210 extension cabinet weighs 39 lbs? Wouldn't the combo with the amp in it be heavier?

Maybe because of stability? The 210 is designed to be used with the 500 combo, with the 500 on top of the 210, so it makes sense to design the 210 with some extra weight to lower the center of mass of the stack.
 
  • Like
Reactions: StrangerDanger
If you're still not satisfied perhaps you may try a noise suppressor. One guy I know bought a new Roland JC120 that had 'white noise' (their known for that he said) when not playing-but he swore it was the cleanest S.S. amp out there. I think he use a Boss NS-2 noise suppressor IIRC. Maybe worth a try.

A noise gate can help with pickup hum/guitar grounding buzz, especially at high gain overdrive settings. All it does is cut the signal from the guitar when the input drops below the threshold.

It can also quiet a noisy preamp when the gate is used in the effects loop. Again, only when not playing, since when you are playing the gate is open.

If the noise is coming from the power amp, there is nothing a noise gate can do.

Yes I own the boss pedal, since about 1993/93. They are essential for high gain guitar. And I did use mine in my early bass days, where I had a huge pedalboard. The NS was integral, as a power supply for the rest of the boss pedals on the board, and I utilized its effects loop. The way to run it is to put the noisy pedals such as distortion, chorus flange etc in the loop, so when the guitar is gated, the noise and hiss generated from the pedals is also shut off. Delays and reverbs are best used after the gate, and not in the gates loop, so the reverb tails and delay repeats don't get cut off when the gate kicks in.

Using the boss suppressor in a guitar amps effects loop (a specific way to hook it up with the guitar feeding the input of the gate, and the gate loop and amp loop connected) is a good way to calm the hiss common to tube amps with high gain preamps, which is where most of the hiss comes from. But again, no gate or hush can quiet a noisy power section.

That is my experience and I have seen links to you on TalkBass from the Fender site, so trust me, I would listen to you first. My question then is why would someone recommend turning the Master all the way up and controlling volume with the Gain? That would disturb neighbors, increase my tinnitus AND scare the be-jeebus out of my rabbits.
Anyhow, it's caused me to start playing with it and the results are educational. Thanks Linnin, I ask you first because I think you are the guy that knows. I have a lot to learn.

That is the correct way to do it on a single Channel guitar amp with master volume. Cranking the master and controlling volume from the gain or input volume control is the correct way to get the loudest clean tone from a guitar amp.

With bass it is a little different, but the same principal would apply to an SVT classic.

With a more modern hi fi type amp (swr etc), it is best to run the preamp gain to just before clipping, for the highest signal to noise ratio. Cranking the master on those is just a good way to amplify the noise floor of the preamp.

It is really different depending on the type of amp. Bass is a more HiFi application and many bass amps are more closely related to PA systems than guitar amps.

Rumbles are different as well. Since the gain is more of a variable attenuator and does not turn off the signal when turned all the way down. There is no need to crank the master on a rumble since the gain control is not prone to introduce distortion or ugly fatty clipping like the gain control on other amps do. Consider it a teenager proof feature perhaps. Personally I would like the option to overdrive the first gain stage, but the rumble does not allow that, at least not with a passive bass in my experience. But I can get close enough with the overdrive.

The rumble truly is a different beast, which is easier for the non technically inclined to get a good standard warm and clean bass tone. Unlike an SWR or Boogie where the good tones take a bit more expertise to pry out of the amp, and there are many wrong ways to dial the amp in that sound like butt :) rumbles make it easy
 
A noise gate can help with pickup hum/guitar grounding buzz, especially at high gain overdrive settings. All it does is cut the signal from the guitar when the input drops below the threshold.

It can also quiet a noisy preamp when the gate is used in the effects loop. Again, only when not playing, since when you are playing the gate is open.

If the noise is coming from the power amp, there is nothing a noise gate can do.

Yes I own the boss pedal, since about 1993/93. They are essential for high gain guitar. And I did use mine in my early bass days, where I had a huge pedalboard. The NS was integral, as a power supply for the rest of the boss pedals on the board, and I utilized its effects loop. The way to run it is to put the noisy pedals such as distortion, chorus flange etc in the loop, so when the guitar is gated, the noise and hiss generated from the pedals is also shut off. Delays and reverbs are best used after the gate, and not in the gates loop, so the reverb tails and delay repeats don't get cut off when the gate kicks in.

Using the boss suppressor in a guitar amps effects loop (a specific way to hook it up with the guitar feeding the input of the gate, and the gate loop and amp loop connected) is a good way to calm the hiss common to tube amps with high gain preamps, which is where most of the hiss comes from. But again, no gate or hush can quiet a noisy power section.



That is the correct way to do it on a single Channel guitar amp with master volume. Cranking the master and controlling volume from the gain or input volume control is the correct way to get the loudest clean tone from a guitar amp.

With bass it is a little different, but the same principal would apply to an SVT classic.

With a more modern hi fi type amp (swr etc), it is best to run the preamp gain to just before clipping, for the highest signal to noise ratio. Cranking the master on those is just a good way to amplify the noise floor of the preamp.

It is really different depending on the type of amp. Bass is a more HiFi application and many bass amps are more closely related to PA systems than guitar amps.

Rumbles are different as well. Since the gain is more of a variable attenuator and does not turn off the signal when turned all the way down. There is no need to crank the master on a rumble since the gain control is not prone to introduce distortion or ugly fatty clipping like the gain control on other amps do. Consider it a teenager proof feature perhaps. Personally I would like the option to overdrive the first gain stage, but the rumble does not allow that, at least not with a passive bass in my experience. But I can get close enough with the overdrive.

The rumble truly is a different beast, which is easier for the non technically inclined to get a good standard warm and clean bass tone. Unlike an SWR or Boogie where the good tones take a bit more expertise to pry out of the amp, and there are many wrong ways to dial the amp in that sound like butt :) rumbles make it easy
That was an awesome most invaluable explanation. thanks for the info.:thumbsup:
 
Rumbles are different as well. Since the gain is more of a variable attenuator and does not turn off the signal when turned all the way down. There is no need to crank the master on a rumble since the gain control is not prone to introduce distortion or ugly fatty clipping like the gain control on other amps do.
And there you have it. It is exasperating the number of otherwise intelligent bass players that simply cannot grasp this simple concept. They can write iron clad contracts; program computers, fiddle with sub-atomic particles, but gain structure completely eludes them. Same thing with EQ. You can explain until you're blue in the face and they just don't get it.
 
Photo of the Day is of Polish Bass Player, Kinga Glyk

PhotobyKrzysztofGrabowski5.jpg
 
And there you have it. It is exasperating the number of otherwise intelligent bass players that simply cannot grasp this simple concept. They can write iron clad contracts; program computers, fiddle with sub-atomic particles, but gain structure completely eludes them. Same thing with EQ. You can explain until you're blue in the face and they just don't get it.
My experience with most humans I have encountered, and I have encountered many, is that they have the capacity to absorb one or 2 areas of expertise, their career and their main hobby/sport. Expecting them to play an instrument, have a professional career doing whatever it is they do to earn their upper middle class income that affords them to pursue music as a.hobby and buy gear, but also have a full understanding of the workings of the gear, and why things work the way they do, so they can make it do whatever they need it to do without a bunch of trial and error whack a mole experimentation is too much to ask of most.

And then you have the techie gear nerd polymath types who want to know everything about everything they are interested in, and they are interested in many things.

I once had a "more experienced" sound guy tell me you had to do either live or studio sound, not both. Because the gain structure was different... Ummmm OK. This guy also bragged that he could set traps in the system that I would never figure out. But he wouldn't do that because it could ruin a show.

I bet he couldn't have figured out how to use an old SPX90 that was in the monitor rack at the sister venue, to screw with a douchebag keyboard player in a pay to play reggae band who was pissing everybody off, house crew and the headliners crew, and make him think his keyboard was going out of tune. We were ROLLING! To me it was just as simple as seeing what I had at my disposal, and using cue meters and my headphones to get the levels all at unity so when I swapped his signal over to the 1 semitone sharp pitch shift effect, all he heard was his keyboard going out of tune. Of course it sounded fine in the house, but he was 100% reliant on me for his stage sound. If your gonna be a douchebag, at least provide your own keyboard amp!

I wish the other sound guy from the sister venue could have been there. He might have second guessed his presumed superiority. Experience is one thing. Being able to think of things outside the box and execute them on the fly is another thing.

I did very well as an astronomy/telescopes/astro imaging sales guy as well. I used my audio engineering mindset and applied it to the concepts of both the optical and electronic components of the system, focal ratios, arc second per pixel resolution for both the imager and autoguider, and how the automated components interfaced with each other and the software, and things like narrowband filtration as well. And I could also pick the perfect eyepiece and filter to go with the type of telescope, object viewed and viewing conditions for simple visual astronomy. I did far more visual work than imaging work, and would frequently have the best contrast view even among old timers with larger more expensive telescopes, but not the same grasp of the concepts of exit pupil and which power and filter to use to get the best views. Even in my early days with Chinese and Taiwanese mass produced 8" newtonians up against the 9.25" 10" 11" and 12" Meade and celestron scopes. "Why does your view of the same object look so much better than it does with that guys larger aperture scope?"

I just can't conceive getting into something and not knowing how to do it to it's best potential. That was a career for 5 years, top sales in one of the top astronomy retailers, and corporate type events getting paid to let private and public groups look through my telescopes on the side. But it was not meant to continue because my head exploded.

Ignorance IS bliss. Sometimes I envy the simple.

Yes I'm pretty much socially inept and overwhelm the majority of people I interact with.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RedVee and Linnin
I thought maybe it was the steel handles on the side but I wasn't sure.
The odd thing is that while the 210 certainly is heavier than the 500c by about 2.7 kilograms, it actually feels lighter, because of the placement of the handles, plus the fact that there are two of them. In any case it's light as 210 cabs go, so it's all good :)
 

Latest posts