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Fender Rumble Club

Absolutely love this site.I've been a rumble owner since sept.'16. Right now I'm giging a500c with 112 cab.l also just picked a100c for practice and small gigs.These amps totally rock.love to get a number.
I gig that same setup. How find you the 12 and 10's? I can't complain except the fact that I've got to line those cabs with something - lot of physical buzz.
 
I really like the combination, looks and sound.I cant say I've had any problems with buzzing or anything like that although I never push it too hard because most of time I'm usig it foh support.
I gig that same setup. How find you the 12 and 10's? I can't complain except the fact that I've got to line those cabs with something - lot of physical buzz.
li
I gig that same setup. How find you the 12 and 10's? I can't complain except the fact that I've got to line those cabs with something - lot of physical buzz.
 
I gig that same setup. How find you the 12 and 10's? I can't complain except the fact that I've got to line those cabs with something - lot of physical buzz.
There should be no buzzing whatsoever. I consider it unlikely that the cabinet itself either on the 500c or the 112 is the problem, it sounds like there is something loose somewhere - in which case lining the cabs won't help. I would start by isolating the source of the buzz, by playing the 500c by itself at gig levels. If you get buzzing, you'll know that the combo is at fault, if there is none, it's probably the cab. Then tighten all screws you can find, the screws holding the drivers in place are prime candidates, but even the corner protectors can buzz if they're loose. If the buzzing comes from the combo, it might be the screws that hold the amp unit in place, if not, you might consider tightening the nuts on the sockets on the back a little. If you still get buzzing after this, it might be time to have the amp looked at by an Autorized Service Center. Good luck, and let us know how you get on!
 
I haven't used one personally, but I'm sure it is fine with any amp.

One thing to note about the G10 is that for some reason it doesn't want to work with Spector Tone Pump or Glockenklang preamps, as least that is what I have read. This may or may not be something that bothers you.

(Sorry for the late response. Just getting back into real life after the holidays)

At the very real risk of disagreeing with Gravedigger Dav of all people, I had a G10 and sold it. For playing around the house it was ideal, but I experienced one too many dropouts at gigs so, for me at least, it wasn't worth it. Switched back to cable. On the plus side, I took the money I got from reselling it and bought a very nice Tascam DR-05 recorder that I use to record practices now. (Great for when that damn guitar player insists I missed a chord change and I play it back and prove him wrong. It has happened.) Much better investment IMHO. I love wireless but it has to be rock solid and my G10 just wasn't. Some people have no problems, but my experience was different.
 
(Sorry for the late response. Just getting back into real life after the holidays)

At the very real risk of disagreeing with Gravedigger Dav of all people, I had a G10 and sold it. For playing around the house it was ideal, but I experienced one too many dropouts at gigs so, for me at least, it wasn't worth it. Switched back to cable. On the plus side, I took the money I got from reselling it and bought a very nice Tascam DR-05 recorder that I use to record practices now. (Great for when that damn guitar player insists I missed a chord change and I play it back and prove him wrong. It has happened.) Much better investment IMHO. I love wireless but it has to be rock solid and my G10 just wasn't. Some people have no problems, but my experience was different.

I trip on cables so I love the wireless when it works. Sometimes I have to unplug it and replug it a few times to get it to work.

Plus it's super flimsy and prone to accidents. I have broken 2 due clumsiness/ fragility and sticking perpendicular out of guitar design. Even with the 90 degree elbow it twists and hangs itself off the side prone to accidents.

I love it but find I just can't trust it.
 
The easiest thing for you to do is trade it in on a new Rumble 500. That said, for your Rumble 350, pull your woofers out and give them away. Inspect the inside of your cabinet for cracks in the MDF. Small cracks can be glued. Breaks in the MDF will require extensive repair in which plywood panels would glued and sistered on. If all is copacetic, reglue all your seams. This will add some strength and insure a tight seam. Line your cabinet with good quality acoustic foam. Leave the baffle board; floor, and shelf port naked. Install a pair of Eminence Legend B102s. [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
And that should do you. Also you talk about "winding up the bass" when you should be going the opposite direction and investigating subtractive EQ.

Thanks for the advice. I am well aware of subtractive eq and that is always my first response to an inferior eq situation. Take the nasties away first, then add what you need if you need. However, that approach produced a poor balance across the strings with the higher strings losing volume and definition. I also feel that if a tone control can not be effectively applied in either cut OR boost then it’s existence is a bit pointless.
I have also considered the B102s but in Australia they are outrageously priced so if I am going to spend up big I think the trade-in option might be a better move.
Thanks again for your response.
 
The 350 was the V2 Rumble with an MDF cabinet. I have no love myself for MDF. Lots of companies used it. The problem isn't just the earlier Rumbles, but all MDF audio cabinets.

It's exceedingly heavy, fragile, readily soaks up water and distorts, and is a poor choice for... well anything.

Linins suggestions, particularly the first one will help out tremendously.

I mean no disrespect to anyone that owns and loves the Rumble 350, I'm sure the powerhead itself is great however that cabinet at the very basics of it because of the MDF Construction leaves a lot to be desired in my eyes.

The suggestions they've already been made however about how to alleviate some of the acoustic problems with that cabinet should probably work well.

Thanks for the response. Like you, I’m not a fan of mdf for all the reasons you mentioned. At my age, the weight is something I’d rather do without.
Eminence speakers are very expensive in Australia so if I decide to spend I think I’ll look into the trade-in approach.
All the best from Australia.
 
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Hello all.

Ampeg guy here who chose to add the Fender Rumble 40 combo amp to my collection.

The light weight is major along with 40 watts and a 10” along with the fact you can pop a Basslite S2010 in along with a few other tweaks and really maximize what already is beyond solid.

No, I don’t need to upgrade it and yes I firmly understand that putting a $90 MSRP speaker into a $199 combo would make zero sense to most as they’d simply buy a bigger combo or spend $300 plus on something used.

I like New when it comes to lower priced gear because I don’t trust how others may have abused it which is why I won’t buy GC demo units.

Anyhow, I get the fact that for the dollars invested to upgrade this does not change it from what it is albeit just a little better. I’m good with that.

Now that’s out of the way before anyone tells me upgrading isn’t worth it. (Though @AstroSonic proved you can upgrade a Rumble 40 and I’m taking their lead)

Anyhow, I’ve got one of these and would gladly like a number and to perhaps take part then in discussions pertaining to.

Enclosed is photo evidence and my cat since I figure that’s as good as a watermark since nobody else owns that cat and if someone does have his twin and they play bass?

I’d be glad to meet them.

Thank you to Linnin for all the answers to questions I had on Fender stuff just as much as Jimmy has been my learning tree of Ampeg knowledge.

Rumble on.

P.S. I do love the tone of the Ampeg BA108 which is half the price but the bloody thing weighs nearly twice as much which alone made my choice to add this as a knock around/carry anywhere practice combo.
 
Ampeg guy here who chose to add the Fender Rumble 40 combo amp to my collection.
You have chosen wisely. :thumbsup: Welcome to the Fender Rumble Club :woot:
The light weight is major along with 40 watts and a 10” along with the fact you can pop a Basslite S2010 in along with a few other tweaks and really maximize what already is beyond solid.
You will be astounded & amazed.
Thank you to Linnin for all the answers to questions I had on Fender stuff
You are quite welcome.
Rumble on.
It's what we do! :cool: Rumble On! :cool:
 
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I gig that same setup. How find you the 12 and 10's? I can't complain except the fact that I've got to line those cabs with something - lot of physical buzz.

Not sure about your situation, but with my 500c + 210 cab, the buzzing is coming from everything around it, most notably door trim, silverware, glasses, etc... Anything not firmly attached to the earth will buzz / rattle when I play through this thing...
 
Not sure about your situation, but with my 500c + 210 cab, the buzzing is coming from everything around it, most notably door trim, silverware, glasses, etc... Anything not firmly attached to the earth will buzz / rattle when I play through this thi
Not sure about your situation, but with my 500c + 210 cab, the buzzing is coming from everything around it, most notably door trim, silverware, glasses, etc... Anything not firmly attached to the earth will buzz / rattle when I play through this thing...
Same thing happens at my house. I suppose we could turn 'em down,but why deprive the neighbors.
 
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It's always good to take your rig outside away from any structures and put it in contact with good old Mother Earth (no casters). All tone controls at zero boost/cut with no overdrive or voicings engaged. Play at concert volume level. If there are any abnormalities, you will be certain to hear them. Structural cabinet buzz or rattle is distinctly different from driver deficiencies. This way you'll be able to know for sure. Quite often the remedy is to build a better house or erect a sound structure (studio) specifically suitable to low frequency generation at high SPL.
 
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I picked up a new Rumble 200/15 a few weeks back and I've been so happy with the way my P sounds through it that I was thinking about picking up the 210 extension cab....not to hook up to the 200 but to run with my PF800. It would be my Jazz bass rig.

I am currently using a Hartke 4.5XL. It's a little too much for my "studio" not to mention it weighs a ton (96 lbs) so I was thinking about getting the Ruble 210 and killing two birds.....

I've read though much of this thread and it seems the 210 is a pretty nice option. There aren't any around where I live to try out but Musician's Friend has a good easy return policy so I'm thinking hard about ordering it. Any opinions or feedback on the 210 would be appreciated.

Thanks
 
I picked up a new Rumble 200/15 a few weeks back and I've been so happy with the way my P sounds through it that I was thinking about picking up the 210 extension cab....not to hook up to the 200 but to run with my PF800. It would be my Jazz bass rig.

I am currently using a Hartke 4.5XL. It's a little too much for my "studio" not to mention it weighs a ton (96 lbs) so I was thinking about getting the Ruble 210 and killing two birds.....

I've read though much of this thread and it seems the 210 is a pretty nice option. There aren't any around where I live to try out but Musician's Friend has a good easy return policy so I'm thinking hard about ordering it. Any opinions or feedback on the 210 would be appreciated.

Thanks
Ive never played through a pf800...but I have a Rumble 500 and 210 cab. The 210 is a great cab, lighter than most(but not too light) and easy to carry and sounds great. I like the idea of a rig that can scale up or down depending on gig size so I plan on getting another 210. If you are dragging it out to gigs, you will want to get a good cover for it.
 
It's always good to take your rig outside away from any structures and put it in contact with good old Mother Earth (no casters). All tone controls at zero boost/cut with no overdrive or voicings engaged. Play at concert volume level. If there are any abnormalities, you will be certain to hear them. Structural cabinet buzz or rattle is distinctly different from driver deficiencies. This way you'll be able to know for sure. Quite often the remedy is to build a better house or erect a sound structure (studio) specifically suitable to low frequency generation at high SPL.
This is a great idea. Hadn’t thought of this before.

I live on the water so what I’d really like to do is rig up a nice SVT rig on the boat deck and see how far the sound can carry or see if it can make wakes of its own in the yacht club as everyone shakes their fists.

(I’d also like to find someone with a full Marshall stack who would be interested in such a venture to see how that sounds screaming across the water)

I can’t stand the yacht club folks so would be good fun.

Though that’s to be considered mean by some but sharing bass should be good.

Also simply getting away from any structure will show you what is truly buzzing and you’ll know its your cab rather than the downstairs neighbor’s Knick knacks.

Although I’d like to ask her if we could shatter a Hummel from one floor above at some point.
 
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This is a great idea. Hadn’t thought of this before.

I live on the water so what I’d really like to do is rig up a nice SVT rig on the boat deck and see how far the sound can carry or see if it can make wakes of its own in the yacht club as everyone shakes their fists.

(I’d also like to find someone with a full Marshall stack who would be interested in such a venture to see how that sounds screaming across the water)

I can’t stand the yacht club folks so would be good fun.

Though that’s to be considered mean by some but sharing bass should be good.

Also simply getting away from any structure will show you what is truly buzzing and you’ll know its your cab rather than the downstairs neighbor’s Knick knacks.

Although I’d like to ask her if we could shatter a Hummel from one floor above at some point.
:roflmao::roflmao:... I don't own a Marshall stack but I would buy one just to join you in your worthwhile venture....
 
It's always good to take your rig outside away from any structures and put it in contact with good old Mother Earth (no casters). All tone controls at zero boost/cut with no overdrive or voicings engaged. Play at concert volume level. If there are any abnormalities, you will be certain to hear them. Structural cabinet buzz or rattle is distinctly different from driver deficiencies. This way you'll be able to know for sure. Quite often the remedy is to build a better house or erect a sound structure (studio) specifically suitable to low frequency generation at high SPL.

Excellent idea, Linnin!
Just like food tastes better outside, music sounds better too (with enough wattage).
 
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