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Fender Rumble V3 100 speaker up-grade ?

The upgraded Rumble 100 ALMOST sounds as good as the Rumble 200 at lower volumes....
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I did the same thing to an empty Rumble 100 I aquired...Beta 12-A with half the cab lined with professional cone shaped foam sound proofing.

The volume, depth and mid range bark has increased a lot, its a really great upgrade and the few extra pounds in weight is hardly noticeable. Very good.


Outstanding bass71 !! I bet our cabs sound nearly identical. The Rumble 100 is a great amp to begin with. With the speaker upgrade I would compare it to high end amps costing much more. For MY purposes, the 100 now actually sounds better and blends with the mix BETTER than the Rumble 200 I recently acquired. The Big Band I play with can't believe how good I sound "lately".....especially with my G&L L2000. It is Really Punchy and Articulate. The down side is, every pitch is so clear.....I can't make any mistakes. I got called out for playing Eflat rather than E on one tune. THAT never happened before........
 
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Outstanding bass71 !! I bet our cabs sound nearly identical. The Rumble 100 is a great amp to begin with. With the speaker upgrade I would compare it to high end amps costing much more. For MY purposes, the 100 now actually sounds better and blends with the mix BETTER than the Rumble 200 I recently acquired. The Big Band I play with can't believe how good I sound "lately".....especially with my G&L L2000. It is Really Punchy and Articulate. The down side is, every pitch is so clear.....I can't make any mistakes. I got called out for playing Eflat rather than E on one tune. THAT never happened before........

Excellent!
I run mine with my practice Rumble 40 on top chained through the line out....what a racket!, No idea how loud the 200 is but this combination gets pretty darn noisy with a massive mid range hump...I'm always being told to turn down as it cuts thru everything like butter!

I'm wondering if the 140 watt total output of the two chained combos might actually be louder than the single fifteen in the 200 single cabinet setup.
 
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I just now finished installing an Eminence S2012 in my 100C. I can report that it definitely sounds better - cleaner bass notes, clearer treble, and even noticeably louder. I was thinking about doing some before-and-after sound level measurements with my trusty old Radio Shack sound level meter and some test tones, but I didn't. Given the obvious (if subjective) improvements, I don't really feel the need to go to the trouble.

The only problem I had was with the new T-nuts. The wood seems to be very soft and compressible, and in the end I had to use Super Glue to keep the nuts from falling out as I inserted the screws.
 
I figure I'd add to this, as I've just performed the same upgrades on my Rumble 100 v3 (adding an Eminence S2012 and lining the cabinet).

As I discovered afterwards, there's no need to remove the back plate and such; simply removing the front mesh cover gives you all the access you need. The metal clamps attaching the two wires to the OEM speaker's back are quite stiff, but ultimately just pull straight off once you apply enough force (and removing and putting them back is all the "electrical work" the project requires). Despite reports that the S2012 is a bit larger, when screwing in the new speaker I had no need to make any unusual adjustments to account for its size vs the existing holes in the cabinet: with a tiny bit of wiggling everything lined up pretty much the same and the screws used to hold the OEM model worked just fine for the new one.

For the lining, I used two sheets of 1/2" Sonic Barrier foam. You'll have leftover foam so long as you measure and cut frugally.

The result sounds beautiful, and all you need is an hour or so (mostly for the measuring and cutting of the foam) and a Phillips screwdriver. Very much a beginner-level project.
 
I figure I'd add to this, as I've just performed the same upgrades on my Rumble 100 v3 (adding an Eminence S2012 and lining the cabinet).

As I discovered afterwards, there's no need to remove the back plate and such; simply removing the front mesh cover gives you all the access you need. The metal clamps attaching the two wires to the OEM speaker's back are quite stiff, but ultimately just pull straight off once you apply enough force (and removing and putting them back is all the "electrical work" the project requires). Despite reports that the S2012 is a bit larger, when screwing in the new speaker I had no need to make any unusual adjustments to account for its size vs the existing holes in the cabinet: with a tiny bit of wiggling everything lined up pretty much the same and the screws used to hold the OEM model worked just fine for the new one.

For the lining, I used two sheets of 1/2" Sonic Barrier foam. You'll have leftover foam so long as you measure and cut frugally.

The result sounds beautiful, and all you need is an hour or so (mostly for the measuring and cutting of the foam) and a Phillips screwdriver. Very much a beginner-level project.


OUTSTANDING, KHann! Wow.....you got the screws to go back into the original factory T-nuts? If that's the case.....yes, this is an extremely easy beginner level upgrade. The Eminence Beta 12A sounds like a less expensive...but a bit heavier upgrade with similar results. I was able to sell the speaker I took out for $35 on OfferUp or LetItGo. Congratulations!!!!!!! I'm sure it sounds amazing. Enjoy your new Rumble.
 
Why do you have to cut the speaker frame to clear the bolts with the Beta 12A? Its "mounting holes BCD" is 11.69" and the BCD of the OEM speaker, from screw center to center, is 11.75", meaning the Beta 12A mounting holes are closer to center of the speaker, not closer to the frame edge. If anything you should need to trim the foam gasket, not the metal frame.
 
Okay, so I realized my error with the mounting holes... was looking at it backwards. The speaker holes are closer together than the mounting holes in the cab, so the screws will overhang the lip of the speaker frame. I must have disc-lexia!

Rather not cut the lip of the metal speaker frame. What if I get some fiber washers, cut and them in half, and put them under the screw heads to build up around the speaker's holes to the same level as the lip on the speaker frame?

Can't seem to find how thick that lip is, what thickness washers to get, and with the washers, will there still be sufficient screw thread left at the T-nuts.
 
I figure I'd add to this, as I've just performed the same upgrades on my Rumble 100 v3 (adding an Eminence S2012 and lining the cabinet).

As I discovered afterwards, there's no need to remove the back plate and such; simply removing the front mesh cover gives you all the access you need. The metal clamps attaching the two wires to the OEM speaker's back are quite stiff, but ultimately just pull straight off once you apply enough force (and removing and putting them back is all the "electrical work" the project requires). Despite reports that the S2012 is a bit larger, when screwing in the new speaker I had no need to make any unusual adjustments to account for its size vs the existing holes in the cabinet: with a tiny bit of wiggling everything lined up pretty much the same and the screws used to hold the OEM model worked just fine for the new one.

For the lining, I used two sheets of 1/2" Sonic Barrier foam. You'll have leftover foam so long as you measure and cut frugally.

The result sounds beautiful, and all you need is an hour or so (mostly for the measuring and cutting of the foam) and a Phillips screwdriver. Very much a beginner-level project.

I have the Rumble 100 and too want to upgrade the speaker. How exactly do you place the Barrier Foam into the cabinet? I want to do this right. Also, has anyone considered the Deltalite II 2512 model 12" speaker (Or is this probably overkill)? Thanks
 
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I have the Rumble 100 and too want to upgrade the speaker. How exactly do you place the Barrier Foam into the cabinet? I want to do this right. Also, has anyone considered the Deltalite II 2512 model 12" speaker (Or is this probably overkill)? Thanks

The 2512 is one of my favorite speakers, and will be about 3db more sensitive than the S2012 which will make a huge difference for a lower powered amp. I'd go for the 2512 myself without question.
 
I have the Rumble 100 and too want to upgrade the speaker. How exactly do you place the Barrier Foam into the cabinet? I want to do this right.

I followed guidelines from others, which said to cover everything except the bottom of the cabinet. The foam itself has a peel-off back, so the only difficulty is getting it placed right in some of the more awkward-to-reach places without it sticking to itself or the wrong spot, but that's not a real issue if you take your time. The foam is simple to cut, so if you mismeasure a piece you can always trim it easy enough / slice out a small filler piece to fill a gap.
 
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A while back ago I noticed some mentions of Rumble V3 100 owners upgrading the single 12" driver, I did the search thing but could not re-find the recommended 12" speaker.

What speaker is the upgrade model ?
Why do the upgrade ?
What difference does the speaker create ?
Does it make the Rumble 100 even louder ?

I have a Rumble V3 100,, and also the Rumble V3 500,,, when I use my 100 at rehearsal's I do notice my Rumble farting out a bit when I'm hitting my low B string (I absolutely love both my Rumbles though).

I've also considered getting the GK MB112 if the Rumble 100 can't be beefed up with a speaker upgrade.

Thanks in advance.
Cheers
Davyo
I added a Harke Bass Attack II and now I get a clean sound at much higher volume.
 
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Rumble 100. Adding the Harke Bass Attack II made all the difference in the world. Much clearer, louder and still a Rumble sound using the on board effects. And i am still going to replace the speaker. I put a Celestron in my Rumble 40 and it would bounce around on the hardwood floors..... Made it a Rumble 60 if you will.
 
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I’d agree.
Amps that have no provision for an add-on speaker are usually at their recommended design max as they are.
For an amp to operate (safely) at 150 watts, it needs to be a 150 watt amp.
Usually 4/8 Ohm amps drop the design powered output from max rated at 8 Ohms.
You cannot assume that an amp that is rated for 100 watts, will support higher power at lower impedance.
At least for very long.

Upgrading to a different speaker of the same size may get you a little louder, or it might go the other way.
If you really want to make a screamer out of your 100 watt, 8 Ohm amp, get a 2 x 12 (or 2x15) 8 Ohm cab, disconnect the combo’s internal speaker and use the external cab.
If you’re clever, install a switching jack so that when the ext cab is plugged in, it disconnects the internal speaker.

I love this idea. But I'm electronically stupid. Lol. I would get the mini SVT Ampeg 2-10 cab. So light weight, especially important at age 67.
 
I followed guidelines from others, which said to cover everything except the bottom of the cabinet. The foam itself has a peel-off back, so the only difficulty is getting it placed right in some of the more awkward-to-reach places without it sticking to itself or the wrong spot, but that's not a real issue if you take your time. The foam is simple to cut, so if you mismeasure a piece you can always trim it easy enough / slice out a small filler piece to fill a gap.
Thanks