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Fender Rumble V3 100 speaker up-grade ?

The 2512 is one of my favorite speakers, and will be about 3db more sensitive than the S2012 which will make a huge difference for a lower powered amp. I'd go for the 2512 myself without question.

Of course the 2512 costs 50% of the cost of the Rumble 100. Damn shame you can't order the 100 with an upgrade like with an SUV, Technology package...LOL Could be the Rumble 101 or 100S. I do love the light weight.
 
Thanks to those who wrote about this mod for the 100. A combination of being a curious science teacher and an avid cheapskate brought me to purchasing the 1/2" foam padding and trying it with both my 100 and Ampeg BA108v2 stock speakers. If I don't hear much difference and still feel like I can do more I'll get the better Eminence driver for the Rumble. It seemed like everyone who's modded went in with both improvements and I want to see if there's any difference at all with the insulation only.

Back in my younger days, and after reading GK left the Gen I MB-series cabs bare inside, I decided to do what I thought was the right thing and bought polyfoam and glue and cut the standing waves. To my ears, all I ended up doing was choking the cab to death. There was no depth of sound coming out that 210 and I couldn't stand it and it was literally like all life out of the speakers had been drained. It was a waste of money and effort. I'm hoping this update to the Rumble 100 won't end with the same result and according to this thread, it won't. Thanks again for the detailed instructions and images.
 
Thanks to those who wrote about this mod for the 100. A combination of being a curious science teacher and an avid cheapskate brought me to purchasing the 1/2" foam padding and trying it with both my 100 and Ampeg BA108v2 stock speakers. If I don't hear much difference and still feel like I can do more I'll get the better Eminence driver for the Rumble. It seemed like everyone who's modded went in with both improvements and I want to see if there's any difference at all with the insulation only.

Back in my younger days, and after reading GK left the Gen I MB-series cabs bare inside, I decided to do what I thought was the right thing and bought polyfoam and glue and cut the standing waves. To my ears, all I ended up doing was choking the cab to death. There was no depth of sound coming out that 210 and I couldn't stand it and it was literally like all life out of the speakers had been drained. It was a waste of money and effort. I'm hoping this update to the Rumble 100 won't end with the same result and according to this thread, it won't. Thanks again for the detailed instructions and images.
He always gets it backwards..Mike is more the combination of an avid science teacher and a curious cheapskate loll
 
Awesome detailed description of you mod, BB64 !! THANK YOU for the detail, speaker info, and pics. Too bad that Beta 12A-2 doesn't slide right in....I'm uneasy doing what you did.

Instead of altering the rim of the new speaker, could someone drill new holes in the cabinet ?
Are those wood screws or bolts? Do you think some quality wood screws would hold that speaker in securely?

Do you think the Beta 12A-2 you put in should sound BETTER than the Basslite 2012 in this cabinet?

If you WANTED to do a before/after sound comparison and post it here and/or utube, you could take your modded rig to Guitar Center and borrow one of their Rumble 100's.
Man. I'm not good at messing with it either. But I would love the basslite driver.
 
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In my experience, the foam is a waste of time and money. If you want to "slow down" the bass waves coming off the back of the driver, use fiberglass. And, in such a small cabinet, put the "glass" on the back only. But, IMO, the small cabinet benefits from the backwaves... I realize this goes against the prevailing attitudes, but it is "my" experience from designing and building my own cabinets. There is a benefit, and "liveliness" from unlined boxes in a small cabinet that is helpful and refreshing. I find most any "lining" chokes the sound. Particularly in small cabinets. And, of course, YMMV
 
Thats why I used Acoustic Foam instead of Fiber Fill or that High Dollar Sonic foam stuff, Again My reason for the mod on the Speaker frame was that the OEM screws head ended up on the edge lip of the speaker and I could have Tontored them in to fit but decided to die grind that lip down about 0.250 wide to the flat edge for a perfect seal fit and no angled screws, I have another baselite and another Rumble - which I have listed to sell figured I did not need 2 Rumble - or do I? I have been thinking of getting another Base Lite or Beta and doing the other rumble but with a twist, going to put a plate on the back of one for 2 speakons and either a switch or a jumper set up to make both speakers as just cabinets _ I have a Streamliner 900 Amp I would like to use to run both cabs 500 Watts @ 8 ohms - I do not think 100 watts will power up 2 12s that well, The Beta has a peak @ 500 watts.
 
Also one of my accounts is a High End Home Speaker mfr, he is also helping me on a cross over system that I am just thinking about using four 3" speakers for mid-rage like the Genzler BA12-3- it is like 10 lbs poop in 5 lb pail!
45393168_1881966968586426_8130308443480260608_n (1).jpg
 
View attachment 3174950 View attachment 3174957 View attachment 3174949 View attachment 3174922 I upgraded MY Rumble 100 today using the excellent Eminence Basslite S2012.It has outstanding specs as BassBeginer64 has provided us. USSpeaker.com corrected the neo magnet weight at 7 oz...more than enough pulling power. I lined the inside of the cabinet with 2 sheets of 1/2 " Sonic Barrier (Parts Express).It cut easily with scissors and the adhesive on the back held it securely.
The contacts slide on and off....but FIRMLY and I used a pair of plyers to get them off. View attachment 3174948 White + on right, Black - on left.

Unfortunately, OEM Eminence 12" Speaker is SLIGHTLY LARGER than the new Eminence Basslite S2012 !!! Instead of grinding down the rim of the Speaker as Bass Beginer64 did, I rotated the speaker 22.5 degrees and used large head wood screws (#10 × 3/4 ") to solidly secure the speaker in place.

The total weight of the Rumble 100 decreased .7 pounds......from 21.3 to 20.6. REALLY light !!

The SOUND is GREATLY IMPROVED. I loved my Rumble before, but now all notes including those on the E string are clear with NO HINT of distortion that I was getting before. All notes are more articulate.....clearer.....in general, a higher quality response. The lows are just as deep and warm as before....but now as clear as the rest of the neck. I am TOTALLY glad I did the upgrade....

Ironicly, the day before the new speaker arrived I had an opportunity to purchase a Rumble 200 .....and couldn't resist. I'm keeping BOTH......

How do the two amps now compare ? Well, the Rumble 200 already comes with an outstanding 300 watt 15" Eminence.....the same one they use in the Rumble 115 cabinet....and the 140 watts going through it sound more OPEN and of course LOUDER...as it should...than the Rumble 100. The larger/louder gigs will get the 34.5 lb Rumble 200....but the upgraded 20.6 lb Rumble 100 SHOULD be able to handle just about any situation also....with a more restrained response. It's nice to have a choice...........................


Here's a CORRECTION to the Rumble 100 speaker upgrade I did in October of 2018, almost 1 year ago. I always thought that the sound was a bit TOO damped from the 2 sheets of Sonic Barrier I installed. A recent post validated that concern as he thought small cabinets should be left without acoustic dampening....that they would sound more "lively". (THANKS!)

I removed all the Sonic Barrier except for a small area on the bottom of the back.....and it would have been fine with THAT removed, also. Results: It DOES sound much more open...lively!....still warm and fabulous....absolutely no distortion and a clear articulate response from my G&L L2000 with LaBella Flats.

So my recommendation is to do the speaker upgrade if you are so inclined....you will hear a HUGE improvement.......but to LEAVE OUT the acoustic damping material as it actually TAKES AWAY from the character of the sound produced.
 
Here's a CORRECTION to the Rumble 100 speaker upgrade I did in October of 2018, almost 1 year ago. I always thought that the sound was a bit TOO damped from the 2 sheets of Sonic Barrier I installed. A recent post validated that concern as he thought small cabinets should be left without acoustic dampening....that they would sound more "lively". (THANKS!)

I removed all the Sonic Barrier except for a small area on the bottom of the back.....and it would have been fine with THAT removed, also. Results: It DOES sound much more open...lively!....still warm and fabulous....absolutely no distortion and a clear articulate response from my G&L L2000 with LaBella Flats.

So my recommendation is to do the speaker upgrade if you are so inclined....you will hear a HUGE improvement.......but to LEAVE OUT the acoustic damping material as it actually TAKES AWAY from the character of the sound produced.
Excellent Post. What speaker did you put in? Also, I'm completely nuts because I want a stack I don't need, I just want to look at it.... lolololol.... Losing it!!! I did get my Fender VI re-setup and wow, the Rumble 100 got loud. Master at 3 and gain at 9 to 12..... and BOOM...
Maybe get another R100 so I can look at them....
 
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Here's a CORRECTION to the Rumble 100 speaker upgrade I did in October of 2018, almost 1 year ago. I always thought that the sound was a bit TOO damped from the 2 sheets of Sonic Barrier I installed. A recent post validated that concern as he thought small cabinets should be left without acoustic dampening....that they would sound more "lively". (THANKS!)

I removed all the Sonic Barrier except for a small area on the bottom of the back.....and it would have been fine with THAT removed, also. Results: It DOES sound much more open...lively!....still warm and fabulous....absolutely no distortion and a clear articulate response from my G&L L2000 with LaBella Flats.

So my recommendation is to do the speaker upgrade if you are so inclined....you will hear a HUGE improvement.......but to LEAVE OUT the acoustic damping material as it actually TAKES AWAY from the character of the sound produced.
I see the Basslite.. So it doesn't fit quite right.. Too be clear to my thick head, did you drill new holes (as you rotated the speaker)?
 
I see the Basslite.. So it doesn't fit quite right.. Too be clear to my thick head, did you drill new holes (as you rotated the speaker)?

New holes do not have to be DRILLED. I used the specific large head wood SCREWS and just screwed the speaker relatively tight against the baffle board into the soft wood. A real low tech solution.....easy as pie....worked perfectly, no rattles......
 
Here's a CORRECTION to the Rumble 100 speaker upgrade I did in October of 2018, almost 1 year ago. I always thought that the sound was a bit TOO damped from the 2 sheets of Sonic Barrier I installed. A recent post validated that concern as he thought small cabinets should be left without acoustic dampening....that they would sound more "lively". (THANKS!)

I removed all the Sonic Barrier except for a small area on the bottom of the back.....and it would have been fine with THAT removed, also. Results: It DOES sound much more open...lively!....still warm and fabulous....absolutely no distortion and a clear articulate response from my G&L L2000 with LaBella Flats.

So my recommendation is to do the speaker upgrade if you are so inclined....you will hear a HUGE improvement.......but to LEAVE OUT the acoustic damping material as it actually TAKES AWAY from the character of the sound produced.

I think this depends on what damping material and what your goals are. When I first bought my Rumble 100 V3 I was pretty disappointed, though not surprised. I have a background in serious high end audio. I know all of us boomers are eager to find ultra light amps and cabs but there is no way in hell that a cabinet that light will not resonate like crazy, contributing a lot to the sound. Now you may like that sound, but I don't. There are two issues here. One is the sound within the cabinet and the way it exits the ports. The other is the cabinet resonance and how that radiates out into the room, IOW, the wood acting as a speaker. I happened to have a bunch of SpectraDynamics damping sheets, no longer made. They are a semi gelatinous rubber about 1/2" thick with a pattern molded into the one side. They are heavy and are very effective at dampening the cabinet itself, as well as dampening the sound within the cabinet, but in a very different way than fiberglass, etc.. I covered every inch of the inside of the cabinet, and for me, the improvement was dramatic, doing exactly what I was hoping for without doing something it shouldn't have. But that's me.

Next step is to upgrade the speaker, which brings me to a question. I have a couple guitar amps that I've replaced the speakers with Tone Tubbies and I love them. I've always wondered about their bass speakers but have had a hard time finding any info on the web. I just revived an old thread asking the same question, but no response yet. Anyone here ever used/heard them?
 
Rumble 100. Adding the Harke Bass Attack II made all the difference in the world. Much clearer, louder and still a Rumble sound using the on board effects...

Not surprised that the Hartke pedal helped, it's a massive HPF.
From the manual: Bass "shelf EQ knob provides 18dB of boost or cut at 30Hz."
 
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I think this depends on what damping material and what your goals are. When I first bought my Rumble 100 V3 I was pretty disappointed, though not surprised. I have a background in serious high end audio. I know all of us boomers are eager to find ultra light amps and cabs but there is no way in hell that a cabinet that light will not resonate like crazy, contributing a lot to the sound...

Internal bracing will reduce cabinet panel resonance.
 
I think this depends on what damping material and what your goals are. When I first bought my Rumble 100 V3 I was pretty disappointed, though not surprised. I have a background in serious high end audio. I know all of us boomers are eager to find ultra light amps and cabs but there is no way in hell that a cabinet that light will not resonate like crazy, contributing a lot to the sound. Now you may like that sound, but I don't. There are two issues here. One is the sound within the cabinet and the way it exits the ports. The other is the cabinet resonance and how that radiates out into the room, IOW, the wood acting as a speaker. I happened to have a bunch of SpectraDynamics damping sheets, no longer made. They are a semi gelatinous rubber about 1/2" thick with a pattern molded into the one side. They are heavy and are very effective at dampening the cabinet itself, as well as dampening the sound within the cabinet, but in a very different way than fiberglass, etc.. I covered every inch of the inside of the cabinet, and for me, the improvement was dramatic, doing exactly what I was hoping for without doing something it shouldn't have. But that's me.

Next step is to upgrade the speaker, which brings me to a question. I have a couple guitar amps that I've replaced the speakers with Tone Tubbies and I love them. I've always wondered about their bass speakers but have had a hard time finding any info on the web. I just revived an old thread asking the same question, but no response yet. Anyone here ever used/heard them?
Never heard of them. I put a Celestron Pulse into my Rumble 40 and turned it into a Mexican Jumping Bean. Sounded much better however liked to move around a lot if on the floor.
 
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The Fender 100V3 Speaker Specs I received from Eminence - Please see attached Doc.View attachment 3123944

I know this is an old thread, but I found it looking for the factory rumble 100V3 speaker specs. It has an xmax of only 0.38mm?! Can this be right? Even cheap bass speakers are usually in the 3mm range. Has anyone one confirmed this is not a typo, cuz if it is right, you can't put more than 5 watts through it before distortion on the low end.

Anyone?
 
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From the Eminence site- link attached
XMAX/XLIM

Short for Maximum Linear Excursion. Speaker output becomes non-linear when the voice coil begins to leave the magnetic gap. Although suspensions can create non-linearity in output, the point at which the number of turns in the gap (see BL) begins to decrease is when distortion starts to increase. Eminence has historically been very conservative with this measurement and indicated only the voice coil overhang (Xmax: Voice coil height minus top plate thickness, divided by 2). The Xmax figures on this website are expressed as the greater of the result of the formula above or the excursion point of the woofer where THD reahes 10%. This method results in a more real world expression of the usable excursion limit for the transducer. Xlim is expressed by Eminence as the lowest of four potential failure condition measurements: spider crashing on top plate; Voice coil bottoming on back plate; Voice coil coming out of gap above core; or the physical limitation of cone. A transducer exceeding the Xlim is certain to fail from one of these conditions. High pass filters, limiters, and enclosure modeling software programs are valuable tools in protecting your woofers from mechanical failure.
https://www.eminence.com/support/understanding-loudspeaker-data/