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Fender Rumble V3 100 speaker up-grade ?

I used a Dremel to grind down the edge of the speaker frame to make room for each screw head. I definitely wanted to use the existing T-nuts for grip strength. The Beta 12A sounds GREAT at rehearsals with two different bands. The greater efficiency and power handling is noticeable by bandmates as well. Saves me from having to bring a larger rig to practices.
Nice. I may have to get the Beta 12A. I hope it sounds better than the basslite I installed. I've already installed the sound barrier foam in the cab. It sounds nice and tight.
 
Nice. I may have to get the Beta 12A. I hope it sounds better than the basslite I installed. I've already installed the sound barrier foam in the cab. It sounds nice and tight.

The Beta 12A sounds very similar to the S2012 across the entire range. What is it about the S2012 that you want to address with a new driver? Something about the bass... upper mids...? Did you retune the cabinet for optimum results?
 
I went with the Beta from Eminence's advice when upgrading, stated either speaker would work better than the OEM speaker, i was not worried about weight.
I did the 100 Rumble with the Beta and a 75 watt Rumble with the Neo, both sounded great - the Beta had some more fuller volume - guessing extra 25 watts and just a bit more sensitivity over the Neo lite - to me these were just practice amps not gig cabs.
Sad part they are all sold now - went to some happy T/B members.
 
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Wanna really blow your mind, upgrade a rumble 25 watt,The wife was complaining she can hear me in the driveway when playing, never farted out once when the Eminence American Standard Alpha-8A was installed.

I might have to try that with my LT25...I have been playing it through the headphone out into the aux in on my Behringer head into the Beta 12A2 in my makeshift vented cab and it sounds pretty darned good at even medium volumes (no seeming excess noise or anything). I get the new Rumble 100 tomorrow, anxious to play with it...:bassist:
 
Any one get wild and try to put a horn in Rumble 100 yet, never knew about the threaded Betas that you could attach a HF Driver, darn expensive tweeter..... plus L pad and Crossover required, but still would be a fun project cab.
Oh P.M. me I have an extra BASELITE12- Never used - but modded for a Rumble install that I never got to do - I'll give ya deal on it shipped.
// Beta 12 CX: BETA-12CX - Loudspeakers | Eminence Speaker
// PSD:2013-8: [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
 
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For folks who have removed the driver from their Rumble 100 V3, how did you deal with the glue - I took out the bolts and found the speaker was firmly glued to the baffle. I can think of ways to remove it but I'd like to minimize scratching up the baffle. Did you just slice around it with a utility knife? Is there good technique for doing this?
BTW - False alarm, there was no glue. Once I applied a bit of force with a paint scraper the unbolted speaker popped off.
 
Any one get wild and try to put a horn in Rumble 100 yet, never knew about the threaded Betas that you could attach a HF Driver, darn expensive tweeter..... plus L pad and Crossover required, but still would be a fun project cab.
Oh P.M. me I have an extra BASELITE12- Never used - but modded for a Rumble install that I never got to do - I'll give ya deal on it shipped.
// Beta 12 CX: BETA-12CX - Loudspeakers | Eminence Speaker
// PSD:2013-8: [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
Those beta CX drivers are cool in concept. I don't know of too many people using them or a similar driver in practice, though. I'm tracking the core concept - it's kinda like coaxial drivers that you see in car audio - it'll give a better "single point source" response that can be a lot easier to work out dispersion and stuff off axis (and a boatload of stuff that I'm also not aware of, I'm sure). It also allows you to get a more full frequency response in the same/similar footprint without having to make extra holes. Let us know how it turns out :)

BTW - False alarm, there was no glue. Once I applied a bit of force with a paint scraper the unbolted speaker popped off.
That can happen, sometimes. Maybe the paint either on the baffle or speaker wasn't fully "cured" when they bolted them together and they just stuck.
 
Has anyone tried more than one of the above recommended speakers? If so, what were the differences? Thanks.

(I mainly play EADG basses, but will soon have a BEAD bass online.)
 
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I hope someone will (i) see this and (ii) be kind enough to offer an opinion and / or advice.

My Rumble 100 is fine with one possible exception [I can't be sure it's the amp because I am a complete know-nothing when it comes to the technical points raised in this thread]. Anyway, I've had a series of Fender P and PJ basses that all have or had a "muffling" problem on the D string from as low as F up to C. An American-made Geddy Lee I sent back to Sweetwater had the same problem. I concluded it had to be a Fender problem but I'm having a similar [but not as bad] problem with the used Marleaux Votan I've had for about 10 days.

I've EQ'ed the amp every which way and done the same kind of experimenting with the active preamp in the bass. I can't make the problem go away [it's actually G-C, most noticeable at A&B, on the Votan]. The guitar really shines through the amp in every other way, e.g. great clear low growl on the E string, A string is fine all the way up and the G string is as bright and articulate was I want it to be.

The amp is the common denominator here. Any thoughts? Thanks.
 
I suspect a Beyma WR400-12 (8 ohm) would do great in the v3 Rumble 100... optimally tuned of course... full disclosure: I just posted one in the classifieds, I actually have 2 but want to keep one in case I eventually get a R100 to try it in....
 
I hope someone will (i) see this and (ii) be kind enough to offer an opinion and / or advice.

My Rumble 100 is fine with one possible exception [I can't be sure it's the amp because I am a complete know-nothing when it comes to the technical points raised in this thread]. Anyway, I've had a series of Fender P and PJ basses that all have or had a "muffling" problem on the D string from as low as F up to C. An American-made Geddy Lee I sent back to Sweetwater had the same problem. I concluded it had to be a Fender problem but I'm having a similar [but not as bad] problem with the used Marleaux Votan I've had for about 10 days.

I've EQ'ed the amp every which way and done the same kind of experimenting with the active preamp in the bass. I can't make the problem go away [it's actually G-C, most noticeable at A&B, on the Votan]. The guitar really shines through the amp in every other way, e.g. great clear low growl on the E string, A string is fine all the way up and the G string is as bright and articulate was I want it to be.

The amp is the common denominator here. Any thoughts? Thanks.

Beckerfan,

Here is my opinion. To make it light, this amp is made of thin plywood. When I first got mine, if felt like the cabinet was resonating at various frequencies due to the relative flimsiness of the cabinet. (This was in addition to the overall 'boominess' of the overall voicing.) This made it sound unclear, as some frequencies were emphasized and some were sucked out. I eventually went in and glued some light wood bracing on all the panels. To my ears, this made the amp sound clearer, more defined, and less 'raggedy'. I'd suggest that doing something like that could help with your problem. I am much happier with the amp these days. I am no longer in a rush to change out the driver. I can provide more details about what I did if you are interested.
 
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Thanks for your input dfp and katonart.

I decided the Marleaux Votan "deserved" a better amp. I got an Ampeg BA-210 v2 from Sweetwater a couple days ago. The sound is amazing with just a hint of muffling at A on the D string. Interestingly, the octave A on the A string sounds the same.

As an unexpected bonus, my American Special P bass has been resurrected. It had the muffling issues on the D string and a more typical [?] Fender dead zone from C-E on the G string. None of that is evident when I play through the Ampeg. The low end is really big, the mids are fine and the G string is clear as a bell with plenty of punch and sustain [D'Addario medium gauge flats].

Live and learn I guess. I have a new appreciation for "bigger might be a little better".
 
Beckerfan,

Here is my opinion. To make it light, this amp is made of thin plywood. When I first got mine, if felt like the cabinet was resonating at various frequencies due to the relative flimsiness of the cabinet. (This was in addition to the overall 'boominess' of the overall voicing.) This made it sound unclear, as some frequencies were emphasized and some were sucked out. I eventually went in and glued some light wood bracing on all the panels. To my ears, this made the amp sound clearer, more defined, and less 'raggedy'. I'd suggest that doing something like that could help with your problem. I am much happier with the amp these days. I am no longer in a rush to change out the driver. I can provide more details about what I did if you are interested.
I would love to hear details about the bracing you added.
 
I would love to hear details about the bracing you added.

Hi Little Rock,

Sorry it took me so long to reply. Here's what I did.

I wanted to keep the bracing very light, so I bought a number of strips of 1/2" x 2" lumber at Lowe's (of course the real dimensions are slightly smaller). I think it came in 3 foot strips.

I took the driver out of the amp, and then I cut pieces of the 1/2 x 2 to stiffen each surface on the inside of the cabinet. I glued them into the cabinet - no metal was added in this project. I did not have any way of clamping the wood in place, so each night I would turn the cabinet in a new direction and attach the bracing that would be on the 'bottom' in that position. I glued it in with Monster wood glue. I taped the glued pieces in place with gaffers tape and let them dry for 24 hours. The next night I repositioned the cabinet and glued in more pieces. Most of the pieces are glued with the their edge against the cabinet wall because I think this provides the most resistance to flexing.

The pictures show the finished bracing. Every surface has some bracing. There is also a brace between the baffle (just below the driver) and the back, and another between the two sides behind the driver.

This is looking from the top of the cabinet towards the bottom,
Rumble Bracing 2 (3).JPG

The next picture is looking toward the inside top of the cabinet. (The two tee-nuts hold the handle in place). The diagonal brace is on the back of the compartment that holds the electronics. You can see the top of one of the side braces.


Rumble Bracing 2 (3).JPG
Rumble Bracing 3.JPG


Based on what I heard from this amp, I also put in some good old fashioned cheap fiberglass insulation. initially I stuffed the cabinet pretty full, but then it sounded muffled. So I took a bunch out, you can see the final amount in this picture:
Rumble insulation 1.JPG


After these modifications, the sound of the amp is much clearer and more controlled. I'm much happier with it than before. It's still loud and light.

Picture below shows settings I've been using at rehearsals. Bass is dialed back due to the general boomy tendency of the amp. I've been getting a loud and clear sound that is pretty satisfying.

Rumble Controls 1 (2).JPG
 
Great post, Katonart! I wonder if you would try plugging one of the port tubes temporarily to see how the amp does with the cab tuned down lower, wondering if there would be improved low bass and less booming in the upper bass/low mids.