The Studio Bass has 2 schematics that I have found on the web. One is rated at 8ohm, like mine, and the other shows as 4ohm rated. As the transformers are very forgiving on these amps you probably won't have any problems.
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Fender Super Twin Bass Head
- Thread starter johnk_10
- Start date
yep, 8ohms. 2 x 15PR400 4ohm.
I also occasionally run the Studio Bass through a 4ohm Berg CN212 and it sounds great and never breaks a sweat.
As I said, the transformers on these old Fenders are very forgiving.
I also occasionally run the Studio Bass through a 4ohm Berg CN212 and it sounds great and never breaks a sweat.
As I said, the transformers on these old Fenders are very forgiving.
yeah, I'm am definitely and old school guy who always loved and used JBL's back in the day; D140's, D140F's, K140's, all very nice. I'd have to say, and I think johnk_10 also agrees, that the Faitals really get you into that JBL/paper cone/thump zone with some nicely upgraded specs as far as excusion/power handling ect.
Even with my long term love for JBL's and (somewhat) updated/old school tone goal, I have to say I am very happy with what the Faitals offer - very much in JBL territory. Definitely worth checking out if your in a similar tone search.
enjoy!
I've seen them on the web, but I got mine rolled into the LDS cab build, so I did not see a retail price for the drivers. I paid $470 for my LDS 2x15 (which is a great price IMO/IME), so Don has to be getting a pretty good wholesale price for them.
perhaps someone else here will have a view of the retail driver prices for the Faitals.
Is it just 15s in general that scratch where I itch?... Or is the ST just making em' talk how they should?
IDK dude. As we know from many TB discussion's, it's not the 15's per se, it's the driver + the cab + the specific cab design that brings the flava.
I do agree that the 15's in my LDS box really bring the lows/mids in a different way than, say, the 12's in my Berg CN212, or the 12's in my Walkabout/Scout 1x12. And when I compared the Berg NV115 to the CN212 side by side, I felt like the NV "sounded like" what I think a 15 cab should sound like (if that makes any sense).
And then there is the all tube, big iron tranny loaded Super Twin or Studio Bass amps this thread is based on .. these amps definitely have a voice that other amps just don't have.
So, who knows. good options though, that's for sure.
Yeah, that's true...I have tonal expectation in my mind when I see 15s haha.
Actually now I'm curious how the ST sounds with a 8x10 cab... Anyone?
Actually now I'm curious how the ST sounds with a 8x10 cab... Anyone?
When I was looking for a cab to use with my Super Twin head, I tried out an Ampeg 810 at the local Guitar Center. I was only able to run it at "in-store" volume, but it sounded awesome. The ST obviously didn't have the Ampeg grind that so many people like, but the clean sound was comparable.
If I could find a smaller 4 ohm cab (410, 610, etc.) that matched the Super Twin's oddball 26" width, and had a tone and response similar to the sealed 810, I'd buy one in a heartbeat. A custom build from someone like Low Down Sound seems to be my only option, so far.
- Feb 16, 2008
- 21,240
- 23,636
- Disclosures
- John K Custom Basses
Alrighty! So its safe to say this thing is just built to rock? Haha. I picked mine up in a trade for a small traynor yba- 2B combo with no intention of using it as my main player... Key words that caught my attention were: vintage, Fender, 6 6L6 tubes, 180 watts...
Was using a 2x12 and it killed, now I'm using 15s and it also kills.
Every time I go to the music store and try out a bass I wonder how much better my ST can make it sound haha.
These ST/SB have to be one of the best overall bass heads for value. I don't see anything that comes close. I mean SVTs and Super Bassman heads are no slouch but for over 5x the price of a ST...
Anyway, I know I'm preaching to the choir, but I can't believe these things havent taken off in price yet...
Was using a 2x12 and it killed, now I'm using 15s and it also kills.
Every time I go to the music store and try out a bass I wonder how much better my ST can make it sound haha.
These ST/SB have to be one of the best overall bass heads for value. I don't see anything that comes close. I mean SVTs and Super Bassman heads are no slouch but for over 5x the price of a ST...
Anyway, I know I'm preaching to the choir, but I can't believe these things havent taken off in price yet...
I can imagine it would!
One of the best bass tones I ever recall hearing was when I was a teen in the early/mid '70s. I went to a restaurant with my parents and grandparents and was drawn to the lounge area where a band was playing. The bassist was playing a P-Bass through a Traynor head and a 4x12 Marshall bass cabinet (standard 1960A sized cabinet with the "Bass" logo on the grille). Glorious powerful and warm bass tone.
When they took a break, I complimented him on his tone, a comment which surprised him, but he seemed to appreciate it.
Tube amp through a sealed 4x12 bass cabinet...Yummy!!!
That cab's designation was 1935A for slant or B for straight. Funny I tried a HW cab and head and it sounded nothing like the old gear. In 1970 I used a white 4x12 Marshall 100w cab "1982B" with Marshall Major. Just perfect and warm.
These are the mods I have just done on my Fender Super Twin for better bias control.
All 470 ohm screen resistors (between pins 4 and 6) have been changed for new ones on all six 6L6GC power tube sockets (on one side, all three were almost twice the spec at around 800-900 ohm).
Added 1 ohm resistors between pin 8 and ground on all six power tube sockets for bias measuring (resistors still to be changed with 1% tolerance for better accuracy).
Disconnected the 2.7k ohm 1W resistor between the bias balance pot wiper and ground (actual measurement of resistor was 3.8k ohm). Added a 4.7k ohm linear pot for bias voltage adjustment, with the wiper pin wired (see red wire on pictures) to the wiper pin of the bias balance pot (where the 2.7k ohm 1W resistor was). Pot clockwise pin (left side) wired to ground through a 2.2k ohm 2W (5W?) resistor to prevent bias voltage direct connection to ground when pot is at zero. Added a plastic safety protector around the pot shaft to avoid hazardous hand operation (screwdriver only). Added a tag on the backplate near the bias balance pot with: ‘Warning – Adjustable bias pot inside’.
After setting the bias at between 32 and 35 mV, read on my DMM (Ohm’s law = 32 to 35 mA through 1 ohm resistor), depending on individual tubes, and after tuning the bias balance, there is no audible hum or noise or hiss at full gain and full volume when the amp is warm. Perfect. The dynamics with this amp is incredible.
However, I still have a lot of distortion on lower notes (B and E strings) in the preamp stage when preamp volume knob is at 2 ½ or 3 and above (the cause is unknown and it is not in the power section – all electrolytic caps are new).
All 470 ohm screen resistors (between pins 4 and 6) have been changed for new ones on all six 6L6GC power tube sockets (on one side, all three were almost twice the spec at around 800-900 ohm).
Added 1 ohm resistors between pin 8 and ground on all six power tube sockets for bias measuring (resistors still to be changed with 1% tolerance for better accuracy).
Disconnected the 2.7k ohm 1W resistor between the bias balance pot wiper and ground (actual measurement of resistor was 3.8k ohm). Added a 4.7k ohm linear pot for bias voltage adjustment, with the wiper pin wired (see red wire on pictures) to the wiper pin of the bias balance pot (where the 2.7k ohm 1W resistor was). Pot clockwise pin (left side) wired to ground through a 2.2k ohm 2W (5W?) resistor to prevent bias voltage direct connection to ground when pot is at zero. Added a plastic safety protector around the pot shaft to avoid hazardous hand operation (screwdriver only). Added a tag on the backplate near the bias balance pot with: ‘Warning – Adjustable bias pot inside’.
After setting the bias at between 32 and 35 mV, read on my DMM (Ohm’s law = 32 to 35 mA through 1 ohm resistor), depending on individual tubes, and after tuning the bias balance, there is no audible hum or noise or hiss at full gain and full volume when the amp is warm. Perfect. The dynamics with this amp is incredible.
However, I still have a lot of distortion on lower notes (B and E strings) in the preamp stage when preamp volume knob is at 2 ½ or 3 and above (the cause is unknown and it is not in the power section – all electrolytic caps are new).
