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Fernandes 5 string bass nut w/set screws?

Cnivek61

Cnivek61

Jul 17, 2017
104
103
#1
I have a new-to-me Fernandes 5 string with a metal nut having 2 set screws. This nut slot has corresponding cylindrical holes. This appears to be the original nut, as I see other Fernandes basses with the same nut.

Are the screws intended to be height adjustments? If so, what happens to full contact of the nut to the bottom of the slot? Shouldn't the bottoms of the 2 holes have metal stops to keep the screws from digging deeper?

20231103_140130.jpg
20231103_140113.jpg
Help me out, this is new to me.
 
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#2
Cnivek61 said:
I have a new-to-me Fernandes 5 string with a metal nut having 2 set screws. This nut slot has corresponding cylindrical holes. This appears to be the original nut, as I see other Fernandes basses with the same nut.

Are the screws intended to be height adjustments? If so, what happens to full contact of the nut to the bottom of the slot? Shouldn't the bottoms of the 2 holes have metal stops to keep the screws from digging deeper?

View attachment 5239500 View attachment 5239501 Help me out, this is new to me.
Click to expand...

Yes, height adjustment screws. I never kept one installed long enough to know the other. Always felt the spacing was too tight. I replaced them with properly cut unbleached bone nuts. Never heard of them "burrowing" into the underlying structure. If of concern, wick a scant amount thing CA (super glue) into the bottom of the recess...it will toughen up the wood fibers. I still have the original adjust-a-nut in my parts drawer.

Riis
 
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#3
Few extra tips:

*Use your nut files or round file to clean-up the furrows gouged in the fingerboard afterlength (...just north of the nut)...looks like a gopher gnawed on it. This is typical for this model and has the potential to create a drag point for each string.

*Use a file to flatten the bottom on each grub screw. You want a nice smooth wide contact area.

*The adjust-a-nut is almost a good idea. There is one correct nut slot height for any given bass. Without filing, we may to have make compromises as there may be slight variances string-to-string as the nut has a fixed radius / profile. Some measure / adjust via the "2nd" fret approach, I use the "3rd fret / 1st fret" method: with strings tuned to pitch, I depress each string directly on top of the 3rd fret and measure the gap between the string and 1st fret. Target is .003-.005" via feeler gauge. Again and in your case, I'd expect to see variances among the 5.

*But what if it slips? Preemptive strike: remove each grub screw, apply skim coat of blue Loctite, re-insert and spin with your hex key 360 degrees / back 'n forth for a couple minutes. This will gum-up the works, prevent inadvertent slippage, but still allow for the aforementioned set-up and/or future adjustments without the need for addt'l Loctite applications.

Riis
 
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#4
Zooberwerx said:
Few extra tips:

Thanks for the tips, Riis - I assumed (incorrectly) that adjustable nuts were a gimmicky aftermarket item, not an OEM spec component. I was surprised to learn Fernandes produced basses with that nut.

I will try your suggestion using the 1st fret/3rd fret measurement technique. My target has been .020" - .022" at the 1st fret without string pressure, which seems to work for me. I like the idea of flattening the bottom of the grub screw as well.

Turns out my bass needs a neck shim. I found a previous shim when I removed the neck (see the photo, oddly positioned on the side of the pocket), so I ordered some tapered, full pocket shims,which I have used to good result previously. I'm hoping for a fine-playing bass when I get the neck sorted.

Interestingly, the pocket is marked FRB 100, rather than APB5. Do you know the history of the models and versions? I read your 2015 post when you offered to trade yours: mine has the newer style bridge with no string through strings.

Thanks again for your helpful insights and suggestions.

Kevin
20231103_194232.jpg


Riis
Click to expand...

Zooberwerx said:
Few extra tips:

*Use your nut files or round file to clean-up the furrows gouged in the fingerboard afterlength (...just north of the nut)...looks like a gopher gnawed on it. This is typical for this model and has the potential to create a drag point for each string.

*Use a file to flatten the bottom on each grub screw. You want a nice smooth wide contact area.

*The adjust-a-nut is almost a good idea. There is one correct nut slot height for any given bass. Without filing, we may to have make compromises as there may be slight variances string-to-string as the nut has a fixed radius / profile. Some measure / adjust via the "2nd" fret approach, I use the "3rd fret / 1st fret" method: with strings tuned to pitch, I depress each string directly on top of the 3rd fret and measure the gap between the string and 1st fret. Target is .003-.005" via feeler gauge. Again and in your case, I'd expect to see variances among the 5.

*But what if it slips? Preemptive strike: remove each grub screw, apply skim coat of blue Loctite, re-insert and spin with your hex key 360 degrees / back 'n forth for a couple minutes. This will gum-up the works, prevent inadvertent slippage, but still allow for the aforementioned set-up and/or future adjustments without the need for addt'l Loctite applications.

Riis
Click to expand...
 
#5
I think "FRB" indicated a product for the Japanese market. Yes, the nut was stock / original. No true need for a full-pocket shim but if you already bought it....

Let me know if I can be of further assistance. I still have one APB5 left...or maybe it's an FRB! Check my pics in "What's On Your Workbench?". Post pics when you're done!

Riis
 
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#6
Zooberwerx said:
No true need for a full-pocket shim but if you already bought it....
Click to expand...
Regarding the neck pocket shim, someone had shimmed it previously with strips of paper and wood veneer. After re-attaching the neck without the shim and dropping the bridge saddles all the way down, the string action on the B was about 10/64" - sky high! That was after I set the relief at .012" at the 8th fret. I will try some temporary shims to see how much is needed, then want to do it right with a full pocket shim. I do believe that is preferable over the tried and true method of matchbook, sandpaper, and other strips.

Also, someone has been into the controls and reversed the treble control, so that highs increase with counterclockwise rotation while the bass control boosts the lows with clockwise rotation. It seems to work otherwise. I had to replace the battery connector and re-solder the common lead from the battery to the output jack, as I found it wrapped mechanically around the lug but not soldered at all. If the feels and plays well, I may look at replacing the preamp. It is remarkably light at 8.2 lbs.

Thanks again for sharing your knowledge - greatly appreciated!
 
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#7
Cnivek61 said:
Regarding the neck pocket shim, someone had shimmed it previously with strips of paper and wood veneer. After re-attaching the neck without the shim and dropping the bridge saddles all the way down, the string action on the B was about 10/64" - sky high! That was after I set the relief at .012" at the 8th fret. I will try some temporary shims to see how much is needed, then want to do it right with a full pocket shim. I do believe that is preferable over the tried and true method of matchbook, sandpaper, and other strips.

Also, someone has been into the controls and reversed the treble control, so that highs increase with counterclockwise rotation while the bass control boosts the lows with clockwise rotation. It seems to work otherwise. I had to replace the battery connector and re-solder the common lead from the battery to the output jack, as I found it wrapped mechanically around the lug but not soldered at all. If the feels and plays well, I may look at replacing the preamp. It is remarkably light at 8.2 lbs.

Thanks again for sharing your knowledge - greatly appreciated!
Click to expand...

If the harness is totally hosed, I have a fully-intact spare in my junk box. I installed a 3 band Audere classic. In stock condition, the bridge pickup is somewhat anemic and the upgrade took care of the problem. Keep in mind the pickups are active and the preamp must be compatible.

Riis
 
#8
Cnivek61 said:
Regarding the neck pocket shim, ...and other strips.

Also, someone has been into the controls and reversed the treble control, so that highs increase with counterclockwise rotation while the bass control boosts the lows with clockwise rotation. It seems to work otherwise. I had to replace the battery connector and re-solder the common lead from the battery to the output jack, as I found it wrapped mechanically around the lug but not soldered at all. If the feels and plays well, I may look at replacing the preamp. It is remarkably light at 8.2 lbs.

Thanks again for sharing your knowledge - greatly appreciated!
Click to expand...

No that's normal. It works the same way a passive does. When you spin the tone clockwise, it cuts the treble. If anything is backwards, it's the bass knob. But it's active so it isn't surprising that if you want to increase something, you 'turn up the volume'. Having the bass knob backwards also keeps things consistent by having the relative treble increase as you turn your tone knobs counter-clockwise.
 
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#9
sissy kathy said:
No that's normal. It works the same way a passive does. When you spin the tone clockwise, it cuts the treble. If anything is backwards, it's the bass knob. But it's active so it isn't surprising that if you want to increase something, you 'turn up the volume'. Having the bass knob backwards also keeps things consistent by having the relative treble increase as you turn your tone knobs counter-clockwise.
Click to expand...

Nah, I've had two of them and they should have the same control layout: 4 knob > volume / blend / treble / bass...3 have center detents. FWIW, the board is a TC-9500...or should be. When looking at the bass from the front, the EQ knobs should both boost when rotated CW from center detent, attenuate when rotated CCW.

Riis
 
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#12
Cnivek61 said:
Thank you, this is really helpful. I'm going down to my bench now to compare, but I know the wiring in my bass is not as clean as that in your photo. I'm definitely not the first guy in there.
Click to expand...

If totally hosed or Charlie Foxtrot, let me know...I'll get you fixed up. Can also provide addt'l detailed pics as required. Check the model # on the board while you're at it.

Riis
 
#13
So, the preamp module suffered from deteriorating foam syndrome and was wrapped in tape. The colored wires match your photo but someone had worked on battery wires in the past. Looks mostly factory but I don't want to disturb the tape to look at the preamp board.

20231204_201025.jpg 20231204_201031.jpg
 
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#14
OK, I'm back after a hiatus on this project. I sprung for a new set of passive Bartolini's, though I should have started with a preamp. How do you like the Audere, @Zooberwerx ? I may try a passive setup before I drop more coin on a new preamp. I will also bravely and carefully remove the tape from the preamp and see what I see.
 
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#15
Cnivek61 said:
OK, I'm back after a hiatus on this project. I sprung for a new set of passive Bartolini's, though I should have started with a preamp. How do you like the Audere, @Zooberwerx ? I may try a passive setup before I drop more coin on a new preamp. I will also bravely and carefully remove the tape from the preamp and see what I see.
Click to expand...

Love it. It’s a 3 band w/ mid freq switch…had to drill a hole for that…but mated with the stock pickups. In the meantime, I also had an older platform Pro Z installed in my Soundgear…it’s a strange agent. Same basic design but with 3 distinct voicings: hi Z - neutral - low Z. The module has individual gain trim pots for each pickup (low Z) and the another pair to adjust peak resonance in hi Z mode.
7EB3810E-76A9-47D1-91BD-E16C38D82FEC.jpeg
 
#16
Cnivek61 said:
OK, I'm back after a hiatus on this project. I sprung for a new set of passive Bartolini's, though I should have started with a preamp. How do you like the Audere, @Zooberwerx ? I may try a passive setup before I drop more coin on a new preamp. I will also bravely and carefully remove the tape from the preamp and see what I see.
Click to expand...

BTW, have you installed the Barts yet? Somebody offered-up an Audere classic preamp with the desired 4 pot "diamond" layout: volume / blend / stacked low & hi mids / stacked treble & bass...my favorite config is the 4 band. If interested, I can hook you up with the owner / seller.

Riis
 
#18
I haven't installed the Barts yet or determined if the noisy neck pickup is the fault of the pickup or the preamp.

I was leaning toward the Audere Classic 2 band for 4 holes, but may consider the 4 band if the price is right.
 
#19
Just joined the forum. I inherited a Fernandes 4 string. When I changed strings to a much lighter gauge, the string height at the nut became WAY too low...
Does anyone know the size of the hex screw? My smallest Allen isn't working...
 

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