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Finishing Maple.. PLEASE HELP

I'm nearly sure that all Spectors in this time period (1988) used Maple wings.. However, I did write Spector to see if they could clarify that (hopefully I'll hear something back soon). The 3 piece neck is probably positively Maple though.. and I've got the same problem (white spots) with one of those pieces of neck.. I'm getting some new paper in a couple hours so I'll see what happens later.. I'll be able to test the 'leftover filler not taking oil' theory when I sand another 8oz of wood from this bass.. HA.. I did refinish an Alder bass before and never had this much trouble.. The wood was MUCH softer and easier to work with.

Thanks to everyone for input.

I'll keep results posted here.
 
I just got this response from PJ Rubal at Spector:



"hello -

thanks for the email. I am glad you are enjoying your Spector basses!

maple was the spec given to the Korean factory for the NS-2A basses.
I believe they used a species of Asian maple that is not what you and I
consider being 'traditional' western maple.

I see your thread and pics. is there any type of wood bleach you could
use to make it more uniform and perhaps get rid of those white marks??

talk to you soon."



I'll try sanding down some more first.. then I'll be wondering about a wood bleach. Anybody have suggestions if it comes to that?
 
wood bleach suggestions? don't. IME, bleach deteriorates wood, and makes it difficult to get flat again. my suggestion is start with the super low (36) grit and go as high as you can form there (400 plus.) a good method ive found that may seem a little untraditional to most, is when you are trying to get it totally level, get a bit of muddy watter, brush down the problem area liberally and sand until smooth. the reason i say muddy water is because it is colored so you can find uneven spots and spots it wont take too, and it doestn tend to stain wood. good luck!
 
so, I've sanded down a lot.. whatever is there in the wood is going to have to be fine.. ha. i wish i would have measured the thickness of the wood at different points (pot holes, bridge cut out corners.. ). I can see that it is thinner and I'm going to call it sanded down well enough.. Tomorrow I'll finish sanding through the grits down to 320 and then wipe oil on lightly and quickly.. Hopefully that will keep it from sinking down too far and getting super dark (though it may be harder to control the evenness that way (i'm prepard for that)).. I'm going to pass on the bleach. Hopefully it all works. I'll post some pics. HA.
 
so, I've sanded down a lot.. whatever is there in the wood is going to have to be fine.. ha. i wish i would have measured the thickness of the wood at different points (pot holes, bridge cut out corners.. ). I can see that it is thinner and I'm going to call it sanded down well enough.. Tomorrow I'll finish sanding through the grits down to 320 and then wipe oil on lightly and quickly.. Hopefully that will keep it from sinking down too far and getting super dark (though it may be harder to control the evenness that way (i'm prepard for that)).. I'm going to pass on the bleach. Hopefully it all works. I'll post some pics. HA.
You've done the best you can do. Hopefully it'll work. Let us know.