Unsafe impedance mismatch Parallel vs Series ? Tube vs solid state amp head power section ? And it could be something inside the amp chassis circuit that might've failed to auto detect the correct impedance load ?
Asking questions to determine why the speaker came apart ? When an original post doesn't explain what factors might have caused or contributed. Take blowing a fuse in an amp, it might be the fuse was defective, degraded or something else in the amp didn't regulate the electricity. Are we trying to solve a mystery here, solve a problem or just standing around and looking at a blown speaker, scratching our heads, no clues as to what happened ?
I'm all for asking questions. But I also believe the first questions to ask should relate to the information you think is missing in the original post. Let me ask a few of my own then.
"Unsafe impedance mismatch Parallel vs Series..."
Is there a SAFE impedance mismatch?
How does an impedance mismatch, safe or otherwise contribute to speaker damage?
How does parallel vs series configurations contribute to speaker damage?
"Tube vs Solid State amp head power section..."
How is it that one amplifier topology is more prone to causing speaker damage than another?
"Something inside the amp chassis circuit that might've failed to auto detect the correct impedance load."
First, I will point out some redundancies.
Impedance IS the load. You don't need to say it twice.
Amp chassis circuit. A chassis is the metal box that contains the circuitry of the amp. You could just say "the amp" without including the other non-essential wording. "Amp circuit" is also redundant. This kind of writing leads to confusion, especially for non- technical people. Also, this is often how non-technical people refer to things. By throwing a lot of unnecessary words into the description.
"What is this impedance "auto detect" that you speak of? Tubes amps have some form of manual means to allow for different loads; either by using a specific jack, or by using a switch. Solid state amps specify a minimum impedance to use. Anything higher than minimum is OK, though usually at the expense of reduced output. But there is no "auto detect system that I am aware of.
"Something else in the amp didn't regulate the electricity. "The only "regulation of "
electricity" is what goes on in the various power supply circuits. Sure a voltage regulator may not be functioning properly, but that in itself doesn't damage speakers. You need to connect the dots and explain how this might happen, so those less knowledgeable can learn from you.
It is all of these examples of heavy uses of catch-phrases that caught my attention.
Your -blowing fuse in an amp- example has no bearing on the questions at hand. I know it was just intended as an analog. But that's about as far off of an analogy as one could get. If you used the example of how a bias supply cap might be defective from the start, or simply degrade over time, you'd at least only be a couple of degrees of separation from the speaker, rather than about as far away from the speaker as you can get, electrically.
Again, it seems you were just stringing a lot of words together. But doing so without explaining how they might relate too the OP's questions, just makes it seem more a stream of consciousness exercise than a technical analysis.
My final questions to you...
Are we trying to solve a mystery here, solve a problem?
Or are we just standing around looking at a blown speaker, scratching our heads, no clues as to what happened?
If your answer is the latter, then everything you posted makes sense. My concern in all of this is that your postings end up being quoted elsewhere by someone with much less electronics knowledge than you. This is how these myths come into being, and once they are out in the "wild", it's tough to rein them back in.
So if you intent was to stand around and scratch your head, I apologize for busting your chops.
12" Neo speaker. I respect the brand, so I am not going to call them out.
Was using a pair of 12"s, with a higher wattage rating than my Ampeg classic 15" cabs. I would not say I was pushing them too hard. About 1/4 of the volume from a 500 watt head.
One of the 12's now distorts. Are Neo 12" speakers more prone to issues, when used as bass speakers? I am wondering if it's worth ordering a factory replacement, or just going with the old school heavy magnet.
This sounds like you're just stringing a bunch of tech terms together, without actually saying anything.