It doesn't, ignore it. Slowly turn and walk away.
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First blown bass speaker
- Thread starter ultra60
- Start date
I’m not sure what brand of speaker was stated…
Oh, yes. When I break something “I” break it. It’s unusual for it to be a manufacturing defect. I don’t try to abuse my gear but I definitely use it.
Unsafe impedance mismatch Parallel vs Series ? Tube vs solid state amp head power section ? And it could be something inside the amp chassis circuit that might've failed to auto detect the correct impedance load ?
+1 on the HPF. Those super low (potentially speaker damaging) frequencies don't make it to my amp.
What frequency’s are we talking about. I’m usually trying to make a bass sound…I don’t use a HPF. Asking for a friend….
What frequency’s are we talking about. I’m usually trying to make a bass sound…I don’t use a HPF. Asking for a friend….
It's difficult to speak in terms of real numbers, other than to say that my Broughton HPF is adjustable from 25 Hz to 190 Hz. I still get plenty of booty. What tends to blow speakers is a lot of energy at very low frequencies.
Yes, I should probably use a HPF…but…
I love seeing those speakers push air! If it happens, it happens.
I know that even with an HPF the speakers will move a lot!
My 2x12 Genz-Benz with Neo drivers was built in 2012 and still sounds and performs as the day it was built.
I've been playing for over 50 years and have never blown a speaker. How? By using my ears and the gray matter that sits between them.
Speakers, especially used for bass, rarely just blow (although it happens from time to time, usually from mechanical or thermal problems). The drivers used for bass will usually give you some warnings of audible distress before "giving up the ghost." When you hear those warnings (usually audible distortion in the sound), it's necessary to turn down, change your control settings or stop playing so damn hard. If you use effect pedals, those have to be looked at and considered what you're doing to the overall signal level, especially if you're overloading the front end of your amp. HF drivers can blow fairly quickly, but 10 - 15 inch drivers (woofers) will hang in there for a bit before dying. As others have mentioned, a high-pass filter can be a big help in avoiding problems - - all it does is remove signals that the combination of the drivers and enclosure aren't design to reproduce. In a vented enclosure (the design used in the vast majority of bass speakers and combo amps), when the speakers are fed signals below the box tuning frequency, the drivers experience large over-excursion, causing distortion and stressing the drivers. You would think that companies that manufacture bass instruments speakers and amps would design and build their products to be able to handle very low frequencies without problems, but they really don't (that's not a criticism - - it's a matter of simple economics of how much extra musicians will pay to have clean low bass reproduction). Anyway, a high-pass filter won't kill your sound, but it will help protect your speakers against being overdriven at frequencies they're not going to reproduce anyway.
Speakers, especially used for bass, rarely just blow (although it happens from time to time, usually from mechanical or thermal problems). The drivers used for bass will usually give you some warnings of audible distress before "giving up the ghost." When you hear those warnings (usually audible distortion in the sound), it's necessary to turn down, change your control settings or stop playing so damn hard. If you use effect pedals, those have to be looked at and considered what you're doing to the overall signal level, especially if you're overloading the front end of your amp. HF drivers can blow fairly quickly, but 10 - 15 inch drivers (woofers) will hang in there for a bit before dying. As others have mentioned, a high-pass filter can be a big help in avoiding problems - - all it does is remove signals that the combination of the drivers and enclosure aren't design to reproduce. In a vented enclosure (the design used in the vast majority of bass speakers and combo amps), when the speakers are fed signals below the box tuning frequency, the drivers experience large over-excursion, causing distortion and stressing the drivers. You would think that companies that manufacture bass instruments speakers and amps would design and build their products to be able to handle very low frequencies without problems, but they really don't (that's not a criticism - - it's a matter of simple economics of how much extra musicians will pay to have clean low bass reproduction). Anyway, a high-pass filter won't kill your sound, but it will help protect your speakers against being overdriven at frequencies they're not going to reproduce anyway.
It is possible that your speakers were defective from the start. It's not unheard of even from those with the best reputations. Some make a change in a vendor that supplies parts, or materials. Or the vendor makes a change to something they use. Or there is a change to manufacturing process. Suppose they source a different wire for the voice coil. It may have all the normal specifications, but if the enamel used for insulation was a bit different... You see where I'm going? Certainly no automobile has ever been recalled because a parts provider changed something.
Just saying it's possible.
You might want to check with whoever supplied the cabs or speakers and see if they've run into issues on the run of your model before.
Some newer speakers do not give "Warning Sounds" and are able to be clear sounding until damage/dead.
Caution should be used not to go for that sound, as damage could already be done in some cases.
Speaking from personal experience - having killed some drivers in my travels.
For me... Over excursion of the cone is how I manage to kill drivers. The cone is designed with specific limitations on how far the suspension will allow it to travel. I am using my 210 cabinet at it's limit most of the time. The paper fatigues from being flexed so hard, and eventually, it fails. Like many working bass players, I try and bring the smallest rig possible for most gigs and that means I am trying to get everything I can from a small cab. BTW, it took 10+ years to kill these Markbass drivers. They owe me nothing!
Another way to kill a driver is by sending a clipping amp signal into the coil, which is DC voltage. The voice coil acts like an old fashion car cigarette lighter and burns out. I have an 800-watt amp, so I am not killing my drivers with an underpowered amp pushed too far.
No matter how you kill your driver, it has zero to do the Neodynium magnet used in many modern speakers.
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For me... Over excursion of the cone is how I manage to kill drivers. The cone is designed with specific limitations on how far the suspension will allow it to travel. I am using my 210 cabinet at it's limit most of the time. The paper fatigues from being flexed so hard, and eventually, it fails. Like many working bass players, I try and bring the smallest rig possible for most gigs and that means I am trying to get everything I can from a small cab. BTW, it took 10+ years to kill these Markbass drivers. They owe me nothing!
Another way to kill a driver is by sending a clipping amp signal into the coil, which is DC voltage. The voice coil acts like an old fashion car cigarette lighter and burns out. I have an 800-watt amp, so I am not killing my drivers with an underpowered amp pushed too far.
No matter how you kill your driver, it has zero to do the Neodynium magnet used in many modern speakers.
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I better start sourcing a replacement speaker to have ready for when I blow one.
Not.
Not.
You always have to be cautious and aware of what's happening with your speaker and amp. "Some newer speakers" are likely neodymium magnet equipped. Neodymium is 4 times more powerful than the same amount of ferrite-based magnetic material, but neodymium doesn't have the "reach" that ferrite does (in other words, its magnetic strength and push doesn't go as far as ferrite). But - many customers want their gear to be as light as possible, so neodymium uses are here to stay.
Do not worry, you still have that Lifetime Warranty from good ol' Acoustic.
If your amp is suddenly delivering DC Voltage to a speaker you have a BIG problem with said amp.
When life gives you Xlims, make Xliminade! Turn it into a piece of art.
I’m not think the Acoustic…it’s the MarkBass…Do not worry, you still have that Lifetime Warranty from good ol' Acoustic.
I push em pretty hard sometimes for only using a 200 watt head!
The Acoustic 301 would probably live through anything!
