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First Build - And May My Mistakes Be Minimal

#41
I guess I would just measure out from the center line in accordance to the slots on the nut, then offsetting further away from that mark by the width of the string that would be leaving the tuning peg. Or, do the strings not necessarily have to be parallel from peg to nut? I am over-thinking this. Does it even matter as long as there isn't lateral angle enough from nut to peg to screw with how the string sits in the nut slot? Looking at my headstock, the strings are pretty much a straight line from G string to nut and E string to nut, where the D and A strings angle slightly towards the outsides of the headstock.
 
#42
PDX Rich said:
I knew I couldn't be the first person to do a scratch build based on the wonderful SB* design! At some point, I need to mess around with CAD, but at this time, I have not the time, so Inkscape seems to suit me while I meander my way through this process!

I do not have experience with Babicz, but I hear good things. I have done bridge replacements with Gotah (I like!) so I decided on Hipshot based on reputation and the fact that the one I selected looks pretty sweet! :)

One change coming up: LMII emailed me this morning informing me that the ziricote FB I ordered was too thin for a radius, so I am waiting to hear back from them with my in-stock options. Not a show-stopper by any means.
Click to expand...

I'll be interested in what you think of the Hipshot TransTone bridge. It seems promising, but I didn't use it for my latest build because it's only available in a .750 string spacing.
I have ordered macassar ebony boards from LMII twice now (one fretted, one fretless), and both times they have been beautiful. Just be aware that the ebony is pretty brittle.
Another thing I'll be interested to hear about is the reproduction Aria preamp. It's not very expensive, and seems like it could be used in non-Aria style builds as well. What does the 4-position switch do to the sound? Is the tone knob a passive-style treble roll-off?
 
#43
Prostheta,

Here are the SB-1000 Series 2 (1991-1993) guts:
 

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#45
PDX Rich said:
I guess I would just measure out from the center line in accordance to the slots on the nut, then offsetting further away from that mark by the width of the string that would be leaving the tuning peg. Or, do the strings not necessarily have to be parallel from peg to nut? I am over-thinking this. Does it even matter as long as there isn't lateral angle enough from nut to peg to screw with how the string sits in the nut slot? Looking at my headstock, the strings are pretty much a straight line from G string to nut and E string to nut, where the D and A strings angle slightly towards the outsides of the headstock.
Click to expand...
It is preferable to follow straight out but not necessary
 
#46
PDX Mathias said:
Another thing I'll be interested to hear about is the reproduction Aria preamp. It's not very expensive, and seems like it could be used in non-Aria style builds as well. What does the 4-position switch do to the sound? Is the tone knob a passive-style treble roll-off?
Click to expand...

It's me who makes those :) They are easily used in non-Aria builds, yes. In fact, the thread elsewhere on Talkbass for my "1951-5 P-Bass" is due to be fitted with hybrid electronics based around the BB:
1951-5 Precision Bass | TalkBass.com
I've elected to go active only and ditch the tone control in favour of varitone, but with tweaked values. This gives the bass a great "sleeper" look where you wouldn't know that it was a hot-rodded bass without a peek under the pickguard. The tone control of the SB-1000 is a normal treble rolloff, whereas the varitone forms a much more broadly-effective LPF. I've not simulated the frequency curves in SPICE yet, but I prefer it to the normal tone control. The deepest setting is borderline whale communication.

As for calculating the nut, I produced a handy spreadsheet to do this. I think that equal spacing at the nut should be almost mandatory on a bass. This does mean that the strings are no longer referenced to the centre as such.
1951-5 Precision Bass | TalkBass.com

Similarly, you might find this one useful for calculating fret positions since the SB-1000 is a Metric 860mm scale.
Invalid Link Removed

Thanks for the photos! I totally zoned out and forgot that yours was a post-Mat SB-1000. That explains the dual pickup thing. The dual pickup "real" SB-1000 was in fact the SB-R150, which I would dearly love to own. I have no idea of the electronics in that version, however it doesn't look a million miles off how the BB works. It's a single battery though (the stereo jack implied this as I could only see one battery) so I am wondering whether they ditched the true differential pre-amp design for a basic unity gain buffer....I guess that small preset potentiometer is used to balance the two pickups off each other? That won't be a true "noisekiller" in the same way the originals worked. Fascinating stuff. Cheers for that.
 
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#47
SB-R150.jpg


Interesting I picked this up about a year and a half ago from Kukuza I recently identified it as an SB-R150. Could I be wrong? What distinguished the SB-R150 and SB-1000? There are no external markings or anything I can nail down its year or country of origin. Curved headstock sides, volute, flush body mounted "gotoh style" bridge, thinner paint but still very good+. Unfortunately it has been languishing in my shop.
 
#48
Unless the model name was appropriated for later releases, the original SB-R150 was largely the same as an SB-1000 save for luxury appointments. Brass bridge and Ebony fingerboard, same as the SB-1000 but 2x MB-1E pickups. I suspect they were switched prior to the electronics making the guts the same as an SB-1000. A curiosity is the jack location being moved to the side of the body. A brave choice given the size of that DPDT-switched jack socket! The inlays are split ovals also. The most obvious difference is the wing wood being Zebrano (Zebrawood) instead of Chestnut. The weight would be increased because of that I think, however I can't recall the weight of Chestnut off the top of my head....

A fellow on here was selling his post-Mat SB-R150 which seemed to have come with a solid finish. Another oddity from the Aria camp. The accepted "proper" SB-R150 is the Mat-era one as described. I'd suspect that yours is not, however it might be in name. You know Aria....
 
#49
Prostheta said:
Unless the model name was appropriated for later releases, the original SB-R150 was largely the same as an SB-1000 save for luxury appointments. Brass bridge and Ebony fingerboard, same as the SB-1000 but 2x MB-1E pickups. I suspect they were switched prior to the electronics making the guts the same as an SB-1000. A curiosity is the jack location being moved to the side of the body. A brave choice given the size of that DPDT-switched jack socket! The inlays are split ovals also. The most obvious difference is the wing wood being Zebrano (Zebrawood) instead of Chestnut. The weight would be increased because of that I think, however I can't recall the weight of Chestnut off the top of my head....

A fellow on here was selling his post-Mat SB-R150 which seemed to have come with a solid finish. Another oddity from the Aria camp. The accepted "proper" SB-R150 is the Mat-era one as described. I'd suspect that yours is not, however it might be in name. You know Aria....
Click to expand...
I never thought it was Matsumoku. Most likely late nineties, a guess. When I got it I had no info so I have been searching for anything to identify what it is. Definitely not traditional MB pickups. They are more of a wide jazz style so I imagine they are dual coils. But then I haven't had them off for further examination.
 
#50
I thought the early 90s SB-1000 models were indeed Matsumoku. If not, I am not complaining. My wife bought it for my last Christmas, and I couldn't be happier. Oddly enough, it only plays Duran Duran. Crazy!

So yeah, the guts are "interesting", but they indeed work.

It's driving me nuts that I can't quite get started on my templates yet (having neck issues (bad disk)), but I should be able to get some more work done in my garage and finish my bench.
 
#51
Prostheta said:
It's me who makes those :) They are easily used in non-Aria builds, yes. In fact, the thread elsewhere on Talkbass for my "1951-5 P-Bass" is due to be fitted with hybrid electronics based around the BB:
1951-5 Precision Bass | TalkBass.com
I've elected to go active only and ditch the tone control in favour of varitone, but with tweaked values. This gives the bass a great "sleeper" look where you wouldn't know that it was a hot-rodded bass without a peek under the pickguard. The tone control of the SB-1000 is a normal treble rolloff, whereas the varitone forms a much more broadly-effective LPF. I've not simulated the frequency curves in SPICE yet, but I prefer it to the normal tone control. The deepest setting is borderline whale communication.

As for calculating the nut, I produced a handy spreadsheet to do this. I think that equal spacing at the nut should be almost mandatory on a bass. This does mean that the strings are no longer referenced to the centre as such.
1951-5 Precision Bass | TalkBass.com

Similarly, you might find this one useful for calculating fret positions since the SB-1000 is a Metric 860mm scale.
Invalid Link Removed

Thanks for the photos! I totally zoned out and forgot that yours was a post-Mat SB-1000. That explains the dual pickup thing. The dual pickup "real" SB-1000 was in fact the SB-R150, which I would dearly love to own. I have no idea of the electronics in that version, however it doesn't look a million miles off how the BB works. It's a single battery though (the stereo jack implied this as I could only see one battery) so I am wondering whether they ditched the true differential pre-amp design for a basic unity gain buffer....I guess that small preset potentiometer is used to balance the two pickups off each other? That won't be a true "noisekiller" in the same way the originals worked. Fascinating stuff. Cheers for that.
Click to expand...

That was Mathias that asked the question, just to clarify. Still though, that sounds fantastic!
 
#52
PDX Rich said:
I thought the early 90s SB-1000 models were indeed Matsumoku. If not, I am not complaining. My wife bought it for my last Christmas, and I couldn't be happier. Oddly enough, it only plays Duran Duran. Crazy!

So yeah, the guts are "interesting", but they indeed work.

It's driving me nuts that I can't quite get started on my templates yet (having neck issues (bad disk)), but I should be able to get some more work done in my garage and finish my bench.
Click to expand...
Yah. Matsumoku burned in 87. I'm not buying into the myth that quality suffered after that. I have this one SB-R150 and a Korean SB-CB. On a different note. I have been trying to get Potvin Guitars here to make templates. I wonder if we could get enough orders to convince him to make some?
 
#54
Was hoping to get my tools set up today but the wife isn't feeling well and I need to be close. Hopefully will get a break this weekend to do some work. So, sorry, no update today! Meh!

On a positive note, the folks at LMII are fantastic! My truss rod, fret wire and fingerboard will be in next week. :)
 
#55
PDX Rich said:
Wasn't it the custom shop in Japan for the series 2 and some others, before things moved to Korea?
Click to expand...
I can't say for sure. All the items I have seen from the Custom Shop were either custom or prototype. I haven't seen a production run but the present Aria Japan offerings are probably evolved or grown out of the Custom Shop. Most of the production was moved to Korea since its production of the newer models was there already. I can't say for sure.
 

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