• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

First Build - And May My Mistakes Be Minimal

The Safe-T-Planer is probably not ideal as a jointer - it's useful (but not perfect) for getting even thickness, but that doesn't guarantee a straight, square edge.

And yes, I'll totally take you up on using those tools for my next project, whatever that will be. I'm in good shape on my current one.
I think the next big tool I'll want to get is a thickness planer.
 
Totally. Once any sort of workshop budget gets to a certain point, having a set of reference squares, straightedges, etc. is a must. I've just gotten good at setting up our [Invalid or Expired Link Removed] including regrinding the blades to within a tiny fraction of a gram as a set. I wish I could take that thing with me when I graduate. It's coarse and needs surface finishing, but it really chunks away what you don't want. A recent addition was a Invalid Link Removed thicknesser which is a much more lightweight animal. Takes up to 2mm comfortably (the Robland takes 7mm!) and leaves a glossy snipe and knife mark free finish at the slowest feed speed. Definitely a finishing tool, but a little light-duty perhaps. We'll see.

The two large bed jointers we have are somewhat different animals each. The one I prefer in terms of flatness is an old old Italian (modern Italian machines are junk) thing which is totally manual, but really has the weight and solidity behind it. The other has a digital readout which I just can't trust. Nice when everything is sharp and cleaned up, but soon needs tuning back up....

Sorry, this seems to have drifted into workshop geekery. I'd think that these would be a good basis for a tool review, but I genuinely doubt that many people in the amateur or enthusiast class would invest in anything like these machines! Maybe a Hammer A3 if you're really having a midlife crisis on a reasonable budget....
Drift away. We can learn lots from you.
 
image.jpg

Bandsaw and drill press mounted on removable panels. I pretty much have functional workspace now.
 
  • Like
Reactions: michaelwayneharwood
View attachment 581551
Bandsaw and drill press mounted on removable panels. I pretty much have functional workspace now.

Nice! You might want to think about turning your bandsaw 90' to the left - that way you'll have a straight ahead view of your infeed to the blade instead of looking at it from the side. Just a thought, totally depends on what works best for you.
:-)

Lonnybass
 
So intermission was almost over tonight, and the Oregon Symphony was about to perform Symphonie Fantastique. My wife leans over and asks, "Could you build a double bass?" I said we will work up to that. Baby steps!

Back on topic...

Hoping for a break in the rain tomorrow so I can get the neck boards cut to size. It's nice to finally have some space to work. Once the table saw is fed, I need to set up and square the jointer, joint the boards, and finally glue them up.

Reminds me I need to get some wax paper.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Lonnybass
Next newbie question:

So, in my excitement to make progress, I cut the middle board (purpleheart) a bit taller than the rest of the neck boards. Glue is dried, and I am unsure how to proceed. I know I need to square up the billet. But what method would be the most sound?

Ride right to fence on my little 4.5" jointer, belt sand with ROSS, hand plane then joint, or ride the bearing (router bit) against my maple (outside) stringer to get the middle (purpleheart) stringer flush with the rest of the boards?
 
Next newbie question:

So, in my excitement to make progress, I cut the middle board (purpleheart) a bit taller than the rest of the neck boards. Glue is dried, and I am unsure how to proceed. I know I need to square up the billet. But what method would be the most sound?

Ride right to fence on my little 4.5" jointer, belt sand with ROSS, hand plane then joint, or ride the bearing (router bit) against my maple (outside) stringer to get the middle (purpleheart) stringer flush with the rest of the boards?
Hand plane to get it close then use your jointer. Always have your square on hand and check constantly.
 
Progress! Looks like you have the clamp collection well in hand. What kind of jointer do you have? I'd rip on the table saw and then joint.
My jointer always seems to creep out of square on me, I have to check it every time, and it's always a tiny bit off. It has set-screw stops, so the only culprit I can think of is expansion/contraction of the cast iron bed and fence. Once square up it works great. I am really careful to never leave anything heavy on it so the bed doesn't warp.
 
Funny thing is, I think I can use a few more clamps. :) I used 21 on the neck. Thank goodness for half-decent clamps via Harbor Freight. Half-decent may be generous, but they seemed to work OK. So, I was hoping to go the table saw/jointer route last night, but by the time I got home from work and the gym, it was getting a bit late. Being the courteous neighbor that I am, I decided to wait until tonight to finish the blank.

My jointer is a little 4.5" Craftsman. Seems solid enough, but I will indeed be diligent as far as making sure it is square prior to use. I do need to put together a little push stick to guide the rear of the boards as using those grabby pads with both hands does not seem very efficient. So grabby pad on leading end of board to hold it flush to outfeed table, and little push/pull stick that guides from rear of board seems to be the best bet.

Table saw is a Dewalt 10" and I find it is a good table. Hoping to get a nice clean shave on both sides to get that purpleheart flush!

More to come this evening!