Same trick apple uses on the MacBook Air
Last edited:
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
First Build - "Lucifer"
- Thread starter TerribleTim68
- Start date
Okay, so I went a bit more old school using what I have. No, I don't own fancy digital calipers. I'm not even sure I could read them if I did. But, I do own a pair of these -
and a square that has millimeters on one side. So, set the calipers on the neck, hold it up against the marks and it says 28mm. Do some quick maths, I know my fretboard itself is 6mm tall (I remember from when I made it and I also just double checked it, it's still 6mm tall), subtract 6mm from 28mm and I'm left with a neck itself that is 22mm, not counting the fretboard. IF I consider that my truss rod channel should be 11mm (per StewMac's website specs), let's err on the side of caution here and say maybe I routed it too deep and it's 12mm, that still leaves 10mm of wood under the truss rod, correct? I'm horrible at maths, but I think that's a lot of wood! I'm also trying to doo all this in millimeters because the math works out easier than fractions and all those little ticks on that metric side help dial it in a bit more precise.
As long as I don't have to convert from millimeter to any other "eters" I should be good. 
So, if I left 2mm under the truss rod, I can basically take off 8mm before I should worry, right?
Bear with me while I over-analyze this.
Someone hold me! This is scary!
and a square that has millimeters on one side. So, set the calipers on the neck, hold it up against the marks and it says 28mm. Do some quick maths, I know my fretboard itself is 6mm tall (I remember from when I made it and I also just double checked it, it's still 6mm tall), subtract 6mm from 28mm and I'm left with a neck itself that is 22mm, not counting the fretboard. IF I consider that my truss rod channel should be 11mm (per StewMac's website specs), let's err on the side of caution here and say maybe I routed it too deep and it's 12mm, that still leaves 10mm of wood under the truss rod, correct? I'm horrible at maths, but I think that's a lot of wood! I'm also trying to doo all this in millimeters because the math works out easier than fractions and all those little ticks on that metric side help dial it in a bit more precise.
As long as I don't have to convert from millimeter to any other "eters" I should be good. So, if I left 2mm under the truss rod, I can basically take off 8mm before I should worry, right?
Bear with me while I over-analyze this.
Someone hold me! This is scary!
So, if I left 2mm under the truss rod, I can basically take off 8mm before I should worry, right?
Bear with me while I over-analyze this.
Someone hold me! This is scary!
Short answer: yes!
Edit: and yes, a 28 mm neck will definitely feel chunky!
I try to aim for 1/8" under a truss rod, 2mm would strike me as a hair thin, but it's probably just fine. Even if you leave 3mm, that's still 7mm you can take off, which is a TON of wood to take off.
I never thought to measure my neck thickness and truss channel depth when I had it apart. The neck is really thin and I'm sure there's barely any wood back there. I'm kinda glad I never measured. I would've been freaking out the whole time and afraid to do anything with the neck. Thankfully ignorance is bliss. I just mindlessly manhandled it and now it's all back together.
But good luck with yours. I'm sure you won't worry at all, even though you'll know down to the mm, what's going on the whole time
But good luck with yours. I'm sure you won't worry at all, even though you'll know down to the mm, what's going on the whole time
Oh no, I'm already freaking out just at the prospect of it, and I haven't even done anything yet!...I'm sure you won't worry at all, .....
I like a very slim neck and after the rod almost pushed thru the back of one of my necks I had to make a change. I was using a standard 1/4" straight bit for my truss rod slot which left a flat bottomed cut and empty air under the truss rod. I switched to using a 1/4" spiral ball mill that perfectly matches the bottom of the truss rods I use.
This alone adds a lot of support under the rod that I wasn't getting with the straight bit. My fingerboards are around 3/16" thick at the center. The truss rod is 3/8" thick and my slimmest neck profile I'll dare is 11/16" thick. That leaves 1/8" of wood backing up the truss rod slot. With the radius bottomed slot I feel confident I won't have that problem of a rod pushing through again.
This alone adds a lot of support under the rod that I wasn't getting with the straight bit. My fingerboards are around 3/16" thick at the center. The truss rod is 3/8" thick and my slimmest neck profile I'll dare is 11/16" thick. That leaves 1/8" of wood backing up the truss rod slot. With the radius bottomed slot I feel confident I won't have that problem of a rod pushing through again.
I agonize over this on my builds, but have settled on 3/16" wood under the rod. I'd like to sneak that down to 1/8", but im too paranoid so far. I build only neck-through, so the consequence of breaking through is fatal to the whole build short of cutting off the wings and starting over. Am i being overly cautious?
I use the rounded bottom bits to get a good fit to the rounded rod, then square out the bit near the square cornered threaded blocks on either end with a chisel.
I just wanna let you know,.........Oh no, I'm already freaking out just at the prospect of it, and I haven't even done anything yet!
we're all counting on you.
I don't really have a preference. The end mill was easily available but they both have advantages. Spiral bits are a little better at pulling the chips from the cut but a standard bit has more meat to it and is probably less fragile than a spiral bit long term.
I went the expensive route and got the StewMac hotrod truss rod AND the matching StewMac router bit, so it does leave a flat bottom to the slot.
I also started using a ball-end spiral bit, on the last (and current) couple builds.
Also going to concur about thick necks, my first one was hilariously fat! Like one neck swallowed another, skinnier neck, whole!
Also, also, @TerribleTim68 this build is looking amazing! Can't wait to see it under finish!
I have found these bits are often too short, but I use a 3/4" plywood template and a guide bushing so I need an extra 3/4" length on the bit.
Also going to concur about thick necks, my first one was hilariously fat! Like one neck swallowed another, skinnier neck, whole!
Also, also, @TerribleTim68 this build is looking amazing! Can't wait to see it under finish!
Took this tool (whatever you actually call it) and pressed it against my Ibanez Soundgear neck (because I love them super slim Ibanez necks) and then used that to make a couple cardboard templates out of this empty Stewmac box I had laying around (seemed appropriate) -
I'll use these to help recarve this neck into something less softball bat shaped.
Also, if anyone tells you that you can't cut cardboard on your band saw, don't talk to them any more, you don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
I guess it's past time to take the plunge here and just start carving. Pray for me.
I'll use these to help recarve this neck into something less softball bat shaped.
Also, if anyone tells you that you can't cut cardboard on your band saw, don't talk to them any more, you don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
I guess it's past time to take the plunge here and just start carving. Pray for me.
Okay, I'm happier with this I think -
It's really close to the realm of an Ibanez Soundgear and/or LTD neck. Now I need to reshape the volute and heel transitions. I think I'm gonna string it back up before I go too much further just to feel it with strings. But yeah, that's thinner!
The "shape tool" is to the "top" edge of the fretboard. And that's 1st fret and 12th fret. I think it's good now.
It's really close to the realm of an Ibanez Soundgear and/or LTD neck. Now I need to reshape the volute and heel transitions. I think I'm gonna string it back up before I go too much further just to feel it with strings. But yeah, that's thinner!
The "shape tool" is to the "top" edge of the fretboard. And that's 1st fret and 12th fret. I think it's good now.
