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First Build, Performer Copy

#21
mapleglo said:
Picked up this Black & Decker router today at the outlet store for $35.00. It's certainly not professional level but for the price, I couldn't pass it up. Now to shop for some bits and guide bushings.

router.jpg
Click to expand...

Wow, great price for a very useful tool! Many happy routs!
 
#23
tunertesthole.jpg


OK, the first of what I predict will be many questions. I measured the tuning machine bushing to be 3/4" in diameter, but it is quite loose in the 3/4" hole. Would I use glue to hold that in? Or would I drill a 11/16" hole and enlarge it to fit snug? Ream it out slightly if it's too small? Any recommendations for drill bit type? The above hole is a standard 3/4" twist bit. I have a set of of forstner bits, but it seems that those may be difficult to line up correctly. Speedbor bits?
 
#24
mapleglo said:
tunertesthole.jpg


OK, the first of what I predict will be many questions. I measured the tuning machine bushing to be 3/4" in diameter, but it is quite loose in the 3/4" hole. Would I use glue to hold that in? Or would I drill a 11/16" hole and enlarge it to fit snug? Ream it out slightly if it's too small? Any recommendations for drill bit type? The above hole is a standard 3/4" twist bit. I have a set of of forstner bits, but it seems that those may be difficult to line up correctly. Speedbor bits?
Click to expand...

You should use an 11/16 forstner or brad point bit. Regular spiral bits tear out quite a bit. Both brad point and forstner bits have a spike on them that makes them easier to center than spiral bits.
 
#26
So with the actual neck in hand, I realized that the Fender style tuners just won't fit, so changed them for smaller Gotoh tuners, which seem to fit better. I think I'm at a finalized headstock:
headstock_alternate.jpg


any thoughts, comments, or suggestions?
 
#27
mapleglo said:
So with the actual neck in hand, I realized that the Fender style tuners just won't fit, so changed them for smaller Gotoh tuners, which seem to fit better. I think I'm at a finalized headstock:
headstock_alternate.jpg


any thoughts, comments, or suggestions?
Click to expand...

Those tuners are just making it size wise. I would suggest downing the size of the tuner button a bit, then when you tune you won{t be accidentally hitting the wrong tuners.
 
#31
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#32
You can also make a template in scrap with the forstner bit that you can clamp to your work if you're not confident about centering. Very helpful for using forstner bits with a hand drill, but also helpful on a drill press, which I see you have. This and a sharp bit will ensure a clean, precise tear free bores.

As for slightly lose fitting tuners, I've used cars stock strips as spacers, but that was on hipshot tunes with threaded bushings. But for press fit bushings, if I couldn't drill the precise size, I'd go smaller and ream gradually until I could press them in part way by hand.

Hopkins said:
You should use an 11/16 forstner or brad point bit. Regular spiral bits tear out quite a bit. Both brad point and forstner bits have a spike on them that makes them easier to center than spiral bits.
Click to expand...







mapleglo said:
tunertesthole.jpg


OK, the first of what I predict will be many questions. I measured the tuning machine bushing to be 3/4" in diameter, but it is quite loose in the 3/4" hole. Would I use glue to hold that in? Or would I drill a 11/16" hole and enlarge it to fit snug? Ream it out slightly if it's too small? Any recommendations for drill bit type? The above hole is a standard 3/4" twist bit. I have a set of of forstner bits, but it seems that those may be difficult to line up correctly. Speedbor bits?
Click to expand...
 
#33
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#34
JdoubleH said:
You can also make a template in scrap with the forstner bit that you can clamp to your work if you're not confident about centering. Very helpful for using forstner bits with a hand drill, but also helpful on a drill press, which I see you have. This and a sharp bit will ensure a clean, precise tear free bores.

As for slightly lose fitting tuners, I've used cars stock strips as spacers, but that was on hipshot tunes with threaded bushings. But for press fit bushings, if I couldn't drill the precise size, I'd go smaller and ream gradually until I could press them in part way by hand.
Click to expand...

Yes, I definitely plan on making a template first. I'll have to stop by Home Depot tomorrow to pick up some material. I'd also like to add a piece of maple to the headstock first, where the design extends further than the existing piece, before I make any cuts. It'll be much easier to glue on if the headstock is still square. Or close to it - I found that it's not quite square, right from the factory. So I guess I'll have to stop by the wood store to see if they any maple scraps I can use.

Of course, they offered overtime tomorrow at work, which I signed up for since it's not very often that OT is available. It'll help pay for all this stuff. And maybe, even a new set of tuners...
 
#35
After making a template, I realized I made an error in measuring the new tuners, so I had to make a slight adjustment.

headstock_alternate2.jpg


The bass side edge had to have a more aggressive angle in order for the tuning posts to line up with the slots in the nut. Further, the old depiction of the tuners were larger than real life, and that actually worked in my favor. There seems to be plenty of room between the tuning handles now.

It was also slightly too long, and extended beyond the existing headstock, so I had to shorten it slightly. I'd say I've reached the final design, but I've been wrong before :P

I also stopped off at the wood store and picked up a small piece of maple. I want to add to the head stock before I start cutting it, as that would make clamping much easier. Either way, the grain has no hope of matching, so I also bought some maple veneer, just in case the added piece looks too different.

DSC01988.jpg


Next, I'll have to make a jig to route the new maple scrap to the same thickness as the head stock.
 
#36
DSC01989.jpg


Stopped off at harbor freight today for more supplies. A couple of $5.00 levels made a perfect thicknesser for routing down the thickness of the headstock addition. Unfortunately, it just became too hot to work on it anymore, and we had other chores to do today.

I also picked up several more clamps - one can't have too many clamps.

And finally, the "finalized headstock design" looked a little thin at the deepest part of the treble side concave curve, especially noticeable on the template I made. So another "final" revision is here:

headstock_alternate3.jpg
 
#37
Having finalized the head stock design, I'm ready to move forward. Having not much time during the week, I only managed to glue the headstock extension piece to the headstock.

DSC01991.jpg


I'll let that cure for a while. I should be able to do more work on the weekend.
 
#40
Hey man - I just today got those tuners I posted a pic of - for the price (under $30) they are awesome! They are probably heavier than the ultralight-types, but are WAY cooler aesthetically ! :cool: If it were me - there is no contest.
 

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