• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Five string basses with 33 inch scales

Hi,there,have anyone played on basses 33" scales with?What do you think how five string sounds of?
What pros and cons compared 34" basses to?I listened to ACG Krell bass and it is sounds ok to me,but never played on shorter than 34" one and have no idea what it is all about.Any thoughts and helps will be appreciated.Thank you for your time.
 
Pete Skjold builds a lot of 33” scale instruments that have very solid B strings. I have 34” from him, but when we discussed my build he offered to do it in 33” saying that Damian Erskine goes with 33” scale, and having built many, he was loving the results. You can check out Damian’s website, and ask him directly about it. You could also ask Pete Skjold for that matter!
 
OK, I am going to post this same comment in a few of the related threads. I converted my Ibby BTB845V from E-C to B-G. I purchased this 33-inch-scale bass due to my left hand losing flexibility after 44 years of playing bass. The maple bodied neck-through construction is a tad heavier than the lighter bodied bolt-on models, of course. Tone and flexibility are there. The electronics are the same as in most of the other BTB basses, so with the on-board active controls, it runs the gamut. The 33-inch-scale has just enough less spacing between the lower frets that in 1st position I can feel the difference on patterns and runs; significantly less stress on my left hand. I tune my low string up from B to C, so no floppiness per se.

However, there is more string excursion. Since tension varies as the square of the scale, there is 6% less tension than the same set of strings on a 34-inch-scale bass. This means more string excursion overall, for which the action does need to be raised a hair and the neck given about a thou more relief than an Ibby standard scale bass. Other than that, I'm set for the forseeable future.
 
  • Like
Reactions: bass nitro
Ken Lawrence builds 33" 5 & 6s.

The Fodera Matt Garrison is 33", he strings it EADGC but uses a hipshot to drop the E to an A below the low B.

My ESP is a 28.6" scale and the B kills through an SVT.

I find a shorter scale needs a softer touch than a longer one.
 
Rickenbacker 5 string bass is 33.25" scale:

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
Yes. I know. I have owned more than one Rickenbacker bass since 1981. But I wanted a bass with the pickups in the same positions as my 4002 (yes, "2," not "1" or "3"), not 4001/3. See Picture.
20181017_172743.jpg
 
Hi,there,have anyone played on basses 33" scales with?What do you think how five string sounds of?
What pros and cons compared 34" basses to?I listened to ACG Krell bass and it is sounds ok to me,but never played on shorter than 34" one and have no idea what it is all about.Any thoughts and helps will be appreciated.Thank you for your time.

Most decent custom builders will build you a 33" 5er, however I would thoroughly recommend an ACG. They have made plenty 33" 5 and 6 strings and know exactly what's required to make a good one.
I've had several 33" ACGs and they were all amazing, the only reason I don't have them anymore is because I've moved to 31.5" ACGs now.
You can hear the low B my old 33" Krell here >>

Cheers,
Eude
 
Year end comments after having played my Ibby BTB845V converted to B-G for about a year: Ahhhh. I have changed pickups a couple of times to find the right fit. Settled on a USA Bart CBC, which has a little more presence than stock, and I changed the preamp to EMG. My sound man says it is quiet, consistent and slots the mix well. I use D'Addario XL170BT, 45-107, with a 130 B string tuned to C. The guys in the band like the way it sounds through their in-ear monitors: clear and defined. Most importantly, my left hand is completely relaxed and has absolutely no issues anymore, compared to the Ibanez SRA305 I had played for years with the standard 34 inch scale, which got to where it would fatigue my left hand completely by the end of the gig. Now, I measured the necks on both instruments. The nut width, thickness at the 1st fret, and general contour are the same on both basses. The only difference is the V is @ 2mm wider @ the 24th fret. But the V is still more comfortable, due to the scale length, and in spite of the fact I actually used lighter tension strings on the SRA305: Labella White Tapes in standard gauges and GHS SuperSteels in 40-121. I experience no issues with the B string. Having experimented with several different B strings this year, I am convinced that many of the issues players claim with their B strings are due to two issues: deficient construction of the bass, or deficient construction of the string. Scale length is the least contributing factor to the voice of the B string on a well made, well strung, well set up bass.
 
  • Like
Reactions: eude
OK, I am going to post this same comment in a few of the related threads. I converted my Ibby BTB845V from E-C to B-G. I purchased this 33-inch-scale bass due to my left hand losing flexibility after 44 years of playing bass. The maple bodied neck-through construction is a tad heavier than the lighter bodied bolt-on models, of course. Tone and flexibility are there. The electronics are the same as in most of the other BTB basses, so with the on-board active controls, it runs the gamut. The 33-inch-scale has just enough less spacing between the lower frets that in 1st position I can feel the difference on patterns and runs; significantly less stress on my left hand. I tune my low string up from B to C, so no floppiness per se.

However, there is more string excursion. Since tension varies as the square of the scale, there is 6% less tension than the same set of strings on a 34-inch-scale bass. This means more string excursion overall, for which the action does need to be raised a hair and the neck given about a thou more relief than an Ibby standard scale bass. Other than that, I'm set for the forseeable future.

this is pretty much spot on. I have a 33 6’r and a 34 5’r from the same builder.
The 6 is extremely easy to play but the action is a hair higher.
 
OK, I am going to post this same comment in a few of the related threads. I converted my Ibby BTB845V from E-C to B-G. I purchased this 33-inch-scale bass due to my left hand losing flexibility after 44 years of playing bass. The maple bodied neck-through construction is a tad heavier than the lighter bodied bolt-on models, of course. Tone and flexibility are there. The electronics are the same as in most of the other BTB basses, so with the on-board active controls, it runs the gamut. The 33-inch-scale has just enough less spacing between the lower frets that in 1st position I can feel the difference on patterns and runs; significantly less stress on my left hand. I tune my low string up from B to C, so no floppiness per se.

However, there is more string excursion. Since tension varies as the square of the scale, there is 6% less tension than the same set of strings on a 34-inch-scale bass. This means more string excursion overall, for which the action does need to be raised a hair and the neck given about a thou more relief than an Ibby standard scale bass. Other than that, I'm set for the forseeable future.
Hey man, I know this is a 3 year old post but I found it while doing some research and I was wondering if you had to alter your nut for your BTB845V in order to play from B-G and what string gauge do you play? I appreciate your time
 
Hey man, I know this is a 3 year old post but I found it while doing some research and I was wondering if you had to alter your nut for your BTB845V in order to play from B-G and what string gauge do you play? I appreciate your time
Thanks for your post. Update: the Ibby BTB345V was a stop-gap until I could get a custom 33-inch neck for my Ibby SRA305, which is lighter in weight. After that neck came in, I sold the BTB345V. That said, Yes, I had my luthier re-do the nut on the BTB345V for "conventional" 5-string B-G. On that bass, I also upgraded the pickups to Bart CBC's and an EMG preamp. My sound man, who works for a professional sound reinforcement company, loved it. But it was too heavy for my back to keep. OK, to strings: I am a "balanced tension" guy, having purchased GHS Progressive singles for my Rickenbacker 4002 (yes, "2," not "1" or "3") in 45-60-80-105 since the early 1990's. Because my Ibby SRA305 has an Asian mahogany body with lower mid emphasis, I play D'Addario XL's: the 170BT set with a 130 B string tuned to C to match the keys in my 10-piece party band with a Chicago-style horn section. D'A XL's have a scoop in the same spectrum as my Ibby bass, so they cancel each other out to a good, smooth, clean, low-noise send to the board through a DI box - no amp. OK - why for this band: our lead trumpet goes on tour with the best Elvis show in the country, including gigs in Europe, our trombone player is adjunct faculty at two of the colleges/universities where I live, and our sax player is an oral surgeon with five decades of playing saxophone as an avocation. If Chicago called and said all three of their horn players came down with COVID, we could cover the gig. Yes, we are that good. We just got done doing the fundraiser Opera Rocks with the Springfield Lyric Opera, with Michael Spyres, the greatest living opera singer in the world (yes - look him up), having performed all over Europe, recorded in Salzburg, and knighted in Paris as a French Knight of the Arts. My bass playing supports an incredible variety of ensembles, groups, and events, so it has to be perfect, not only technique, but also tone and low noise. That said, The reason I have D'A XL strings is with their scoop, they are absolutely clean with the EMG actives with the -100dB noise floor on my Ibby SRA305. Tone really doesn't matter, although for reference I play an EMG CS40 in the neck position and an EMG JX40 in the bridge position, flipped so the coils are between the 60's and 70's bridge position (the rout is a little too close to the bridge, but I figured out how to deal with it). Our sound man takes care of my tone, so I mainly use the CS and open it up. The important thing is lowest noise possible and consistent tone so nobody has to ride throttle on my tone or gain at the board. The consistency of D'A XL strings contribute to this. I shall not be called out at a gig for something gone awry. Yes, I went on probably a TMI, but you need to know why I choose a set of strings as well as the simple yes, I play D'A XL strings. It is all a system. It all has to work together. It has to be consistent and slot the mix in both studio and live applications, including PBS broadcast and other TV marketing. It's not just the strings, it's everything from the strings to the bass to the board and how your sound man sends it out front.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jason Hollar
I don't understand this as there is a zero fret and the 'nut' is only a string guide.

Edit: Senior moment as the nut would need to be adjusted for the string widths a bit.
And to make sure the spacing string-to-string is proper and to contour the strings over the zero fret properly back to the tuners for stability.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Snert