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I think you forgot to mention at which fret you are fretting together with the capo.

Put the capo at the first fret and fret the 17th fret of where the neck meets the body and then do the business card method.

Other than that, Ibanez's fretboards are pretty flat Ds but I can't speak for the Warwick. Maybe it's also the change from flatter wider neck to a more curved one.

I'd recommend getting a string action ruler and feeler gauge shipped to you from the AtotheZ website and set it up exactly how you like.
 
Wow, I always adjust the truss rod without removing the neck, good to know, thanks
I didn't see the soace for the wrench, on your bass you can adjust it without removing. Try tightening a 1/4 turn on the truss rod, that should help. Let it sit over night for things to settle in.
 
For sake of on-topic humor, whatever you do, DO NOT DO THIS.

"Fender Jazz Bass American Vintage '62 Reissue, sunburst. Made in USA, ... The previous owner superglued the bridge saddles (no idea why), so when wanting to adjust for higher action later on and they didn't move anymore, someone crudely shaved off a bit from the neck heel (!!!!!) to achieve the same result. It looks horrifying but luckily the bass plays, feels and sounds fantastic..."

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clipyhwbzrnbh1vvohg5.jpeg



:wacky: :roflmao: :facepalm:

Note: Not my bass or advertisement.
 
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Sometimes fender necks need a shim between them and the body to adjust the angle of the neck. I’ve had to do it to every fender I’ve owned. Get a business card or something of similar thickness and cut it in half. Take the neck off and put the card between the 2 screws closest to the bridge in the neck pocket. Then put the neck back on.
 
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Si, I finally decided to remove the neck, I had to do it twice, I inserted a piece of carton (I dont know if that is the word, sorry) as a shim in the neck pocket, had to do it twice because the first time it was very high, so I had to do it again, the action is much better now, not the same as the Warwick, but close enough, I'm very happy, thank you all for your advises, and for encouraging me to do it, I think that this Fender bass can be adjusted better, I'm going to read all your comments, and that manual you left here, but for now I think the action is nice for me, maybe in some months when I change the strings, I'll adjust it again taking all the advises you guys gave me.

I really appreciate this community, I've never been in this type of forums, but I can see I can learn much more here, other than researching on my own.

Here some pictures. If there is something I did wrong, please tell me, I'm still learning.
20210723_135908.jpg
20210723_135949.jpg
20210723_152702.jpg
20210723_140604.jpg

Pd. The neck is from a jazz bass, not a P Bass, as I could see in the second image
 
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I've always been reticent to try a shim because, honestly, shouldn't it be fine without one?

But I've put a Squier CV back together and for the life of me I can't get the action anywhere near where it should be. At this point, why not try it, right?
 
I have that identical bass. Never had problems with the set up and there's still play to go down some in the bridge with pretty low action. The access is tight for the truss rod, but the allen key that comes with the bass works fine. Does sound like you need maybe a little relief in there or a shim.

BTW, its a fantastic bass! By far the 2nd favorite bass in my arsenal. I'm really surprised they didn't catch on and sell better, but Fender really had a lousy series of marketing videos for that bass with Flea. Didn't show anything very well to show off the amazing tone and the pre-amp installed. Just Flea being Flea and a lot of noise. Shame.
Your profile pic with a Yamaha JP headstock gives extra weight to your endorsement of this bass. Never seen this Fender Flea around and typically pretty dismissive of the brand but curious to try one now.

On a related note, Flea is ludicrously underrated by as many people as those that overrate him. Extremely good musician, his discography backs that up. Not to mention his ability to float through improv on a trumpet.
 
A shim is only needed if the bridge saddles are too low to create a good break angle in the strings from the tops of the saddles, back to the ball anchor points in the base plate of the bridge (non-trough body types) and or if the saddles can't be lowered any further or enough to provide the desired string action or height.
 
Hi there, this is my first post, I'm sorry if there is already a topic about this.
I recently bought this bass and it's a really great bass, I've been playing bass for 14 years and this is my first fender ever, I have an Ibanez sr1600, and a Warwick German Corvette, so I'm not used to this type of body and neck, but I am getting used to it very quickly, I like that there is no open wood so it doesn't need that much care of the wood, cuz that is such a pain with my Warwick.

Anyway, my problem is that I feel the action high after 12th fret, it's not terrible but I already set the bridge as low as I could, and I'm very used to set the action extra low, and I can get it with the Ibanez and the Warwick, but I can't with this fender, and it doesn't even buzz or anything, so I know it could be lower and sound good l, but I can't do anything else, the neck is fine, I checked the truss and it's surprisingly fine, I didn't even have to adjust it , so I think that it's just the type of bass that has the action higher, I want to know if any of you has experience with Warwick or Ibanez type bass and with fender basses, please tell me if it's normal that the action is higher than Warwick or Ibanez, because this is my first fender, I'm even thinking in modify the bridge so it can be lower, or if there is some adjustment I'm missing, I'd appreciate some help over here.
I'm sorry for my English, it's not my first language, and also is my first post, love y'all bass community
If every saddle is slammed, and it's still not buzzing, you need to tighten the truss rod. The only thing going to get your strings lower is to move your headstock backwards. Or, you could always stick two plating cards in the neck heel. That will raise the neck up, and allow you more play with your saddles. Although, lifting your neck off the body will affect your sustain.
 
Hi there, this is my first post, I'm sorry if there is already a topic about this.
I recently bought this bass and it's a really great bass, I've been playing bass for 14 years and this is my first fender ever, I have an Ibanez sr1600, and a Warwick German Corvette, so I'm not used to this type of body and neck, but I am getting used to it very quickly, I like that there is no open wood so it doesn't need that much care of the wood, cuz that is such a pain with my Warwick.

Anyway, my problem is that I feel the action high after 12th fret, it's not terrible but I already set the bridge as low as I could, and I'm very used to set the action extra low, and I can get it with the Ibanez and the Warwick, but I can't with this fender, and it doesn't even buzz or anything, so I know it could be lower and sound good l, but I can't do anything else, the neck is fine, I checked the truss and it's surprisingly fine, I didn't even have to adjust it , so I think that it's just the type of bass that has the action higher, I want to know if any of you has experience with Warwick or Ibanez type bass and with fender basses, please tell me if it's normal that the action is higher than Warwick or Ibanez, because this is my first fender, I'm even thinking in modify the bridge so it can be lower, or if there is some adjustment I'm missing, I'd appreciate some help over here.
I'm sorry for my English, it's not my first language, and also is my first post, love y'all bass community

Well, the problem is you started with the last step in set up. Saddle height is the LAST STEP.

First step. Adj neck to factory spec.
 
Hi everybody! I want to thank you all for your comments. I want to clarify some points and give a conclusion (at least for me, I would be thankful if you keep posting some advises).

My first thought of the bass is that is very different to the basses I've played, not in a bad way, just different, and I realized that the action after the 12th fret was not as I'd like, so first I checked the bridge and I lowered it as much as possible, it was much better, but I'm used to a really low action, and I mean really low, but I thought that the action was at least fine, after that I started to play around with the bass and it was so funny, I really liked the sound, the aspect and the overall feeling, so I wanted to go further in this matter of the action, so I checked again the bridge, to see if I could do something else, I couldn't, then I checked the truss rod, and it was surprisingly straight, I put a capo on the first fret and tapped in the 13-15 fret, checked the action and I couldn't even insert a card in between the string and the fingerboard, so it was fine in my opinion, that's when I posted the thread.
I don't play professionally in a band, I don't get any money playing, and that's not my intention, I just play in my local church, and I know no one is going to notice the difference with this bass, but I do, and that is why I tried this setup by adding the shim, and I'm pretty happy with it, cuz I did it myself (I know it's not a big thing) and it really helped to set the action lower, I am Mexican and to be honest I don't know many words you post here :D:D, and google translator doesn't do a good job, I'm probably going to change the cardboard in some months when I change the strings (thanks for the advise) and probably change some other settings until I feel that the bass is perfect, so I know that what I did is not the ideal, but I don't really care that much if it reduces 0.3ms the sustain and I didn't hear the tone changed, I appreciate your comments but that is not the direction I'm going to.

Now my conclusion.
This is my first Fender ever, and I think it's an awesome bass, I really wanted an Ernie Ball Musicman Sting Ray, but I wanted a brand new bass, here in México you can get it for $2,000, and I couldn't afford it, so I saw this bass in promotion ($1,450) online and I thought it was a really nice deal, so I got it, I never owned a Fender because every time I tried one in the stores, the action was terrible, it didn't matter if they were made in USA, Mexico, Japan, every one of them I felt awful the way they played, but I always kept wondering why people like them, even when I tried a Fender borrowed, I didn't like it, because I was used to a flatter fingerboard, the string separation was much bigger, and I didn't really liked them, but I can see that many bassist I know doesn't really care about the action, the feeling, the tone, they just play what they have to play (and I think that is a major problem with christians musicians, but that's other topic), now that i bought this bass I'm really in loved, I don't think is a better bass than the Warwick but it's just different, what I really love about Warwick and Ibanez is the wood, the style, the exotic woods they use are awesome, the Warwick is a tank, it has fallen, get hit, and it is just a tank, the paint has fallen, it has scratches, but I think it looks very cool and sound so good, but now I see that the slap in a Fender is more comfortable, this specific bass sounds between a Sting Ray and a Fender jazz, so I really love the tone, I think I'm going to buy another Fender in the future, but with a proper set up, I saw a mexican Duff Mckagan bass and I'm trying to get it, the only brand I've never played is a MusicMan but now with this bass I don't have any urgency to play one.
 
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Fender factory spec is a joke though. To me the neck will be like banana plus 5/64th string height is almost unplayable.

I'm not sure what you're saying.

6/64" is standard Fender spec.

The string height on the low/E side on my Jazz is 5/64" and 3/64" on the high/G side, at the 17th. It plays great; no buzzing, no banana and no dead spots either.
 
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Hi there, this is my first post, I'm sorry if there is already a topic about this.
I recently bought this bass and it's a really great bass, I've been playing bass for 14 years and this is my first fender ever, I have an Ibanez sr1600, and a Warwick German Corvette, so I'm not used to this type of body and neck, but I am getting used to it very quickly, I like that there is no open wood so it doesn't need that much care of the wood, cuz that is such a pain with my Warwick.

Anyway, my problem is that I feel the action high after 12th fret, it's not terrible but I already set the bridge as low as I could, and I'm very used to set the action extra low, and I can get it with the Ibanez and the Warwick, but I can't with this fender, and it doesn't even buzz or anything, so I know it could be lower and sound good l, but I can't do anything else, the neck is fine, I checked the truss and it's surprisingly fine, I didn't even have to adjust it , so I think that it's just the type of bass that has the action higher, I want to know if any of you has experience with Warwick or Ibanez type bass and with fender basses, please tell me if it's normal that the action is higher than Warwick or Ibanez, because this is my first fender, I'm even thinking in modify the bridge so it can be lower, or if there is some adjustment I'm missing, I'd appreciate some help over here.
I'm sorry for my English, it's not my first language, and also is my first post, love y'all bass community

I recently solved that same problem with my 1982 made in the USA passive Jazz Bass. I took the neck off a few years ago to see if there was a date stamp on it anywhere and there was not. However there was J. Serna stamped on it in a number of places, so I at least know that one of Fenders oldest neck makers made it. Jose Serna made necks for Fender for over 50-years, retired, and his son is making them now. Anyhow when I took it off a couple of neck shims fell out. Looked like one was at the back and one was at the front of the neck pocket. Put it back together and the action was much higher below the 12th fret than above. So popped it off and cranked down the truss rod, but it only moved about a 10th of a turn. I removed the shim that I had put at the front of the neck well and that helped a little.

I still ended up with higher action than I wanted. Action in the money frets was nice and low but still above the 12th fret it got higher and higher. So I started lowering the saddles on the bridge. That helped a bit and I just put up with it over the last year or so. It finally bugged me so much a few weeks ago that I took it apart again and stacked the remaining shim on top of the first one at the back of the pocket. When I tightened every thing back down, Viola! my action was low all the way down the neck. I had a little buzzing so I raised the saddles back to their previous position. Still had some buzzing when fretting some of the notes.

So I looked down the neck and it looked pretty darn flat. There has to be some relief (concave curve) to the neck to allow the middle of the strings to vibrate without buzzing on the frets. So, I loosened the neck enough to tilt it up in the pocket to expose the deep "X" in the end of the truss rod in my neck and gave the truss rod 1/4-turn counter-clockwise to allow a little relief back in the neck. Then tightened the neck back down again and tried it out. TA-DA!!....fixed it! The strings are still slightly high above the 12th fret, but not much.

I once again have a nice low action all up and down the neck of my Jazz!

And NUTS, while I was writing this you already got some good info and fixed it. So you better just go Rock it now.
 
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Wow, I always adjust the truss rod without removing the neck, good to know, thanks
You don't need to remove the neck to adjust the truss rod even on Jazz basses like mine that have a big X-type truss-rod adjustment at the Heel of the neck. You just loosen the front screws about 1/4 to 1/3 or the way out and the back screws most of the way out but not entirely. Apply a little pressure on the neck and it will pop up the heel end enough to adjust the truss rod. Adjust the truss rod, push the heel of the neck back into the pocket, and then tighten it all back down again.

Fender basses have the truss rod adjustment in a couple of different places. One is at the very heel of the neck like both my 1965 Jazz had and my 1982 Jazz has...bit of a pain. Others have them above the nut on the headstock. The ones in the headstock have a cover over the truss rod access that you just have to unscrew to get to the truss rod. The OP's bass is one such bass and @Grinderman already showed him the 3/16" Fender tool he should use to make the adjustment once the top of the truss rod is exposed. OP said that tool came with his bass, so he's in good shape for that adjustment. He does, of course, have to remove the neck to place a shim if it's needed.
 
I never owned a Fender because every time I tried one in the stores, the action was terrible, it didn't matter if they were made in USA, Mexico, Japan, every one of them I felt awful the way they played...

This doesn't surprise me. I mean, It's unfortunate, but not very surprising.

It's one of the things that I dislike about Fender way of doing things, too proud and complacent to take enough pride in the their products to ship them to stores set up reasonably properly--to their own published standard specifications.

Fortunately, if you like Fenders and can look past that shortcoming new out of the box their instruments have the potential be set up to play great, provided the neck is fundamentally correct. Meaning, it's made of good wood or wood without defect and the truss rod works as it should.

I've almost always had Fenders or Fender type basses. That is a main reason why I was motivated to learn how to do my own setup work, refined or perfected to the level I want or expect.

If you have high expectations about the setup, you pretty much can't rely on Fender to do it for you therefore you're options are to either learn to do it yourself right or pay someone else to do it, then hope they do it right. I prefer the direct way with direct control; I do it myself.
 
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I recently solved that same problem with my 1982 made in the USA passive Jazz Bass. I took the neck off a few years ago to see if there was a date stamp on it anywhere and there was not. However there was J. Serna stamped on it in a number of places, so I at least know that one of Fenders oldest neck makers made it. Jose Serna made necks for Fender for over 50-years, retired, and his son is making them now. Anyhow when I took it off a couple of neck shims fell out. Looked like one was at the back and one was at the front of the neck pocket. Put it back together and the action was much higher below the 12th fret than above. So popped it off and cranked down the truss rod, but it only moved about a 10th of a turn. I removed the shim that I had put at the front of the neck well and that helped a little.

I still ended up with higher action than I wanted. Action in the money frets was nice and low but still above the 12th fret it got higher and higher. So I started lowering the saddles on the bridge. That helped a bit and I just put up with it over the last year or so. It finally bugged me so much a few weeks ago that I took it apart again and stacked the remaining shim on top of the first one at the back of the pocket. When I tightened every thing back down, Viola! my action was low all the way down the neck. I had a little buzzing so I raised the saddles back to their previous position. Still had some buzzing when fretting some of the notes.

So I looked down the neck and it looked pretty darn flat. There has to be some relief (concave curve) to the neck to allow the middle of the strings to vibrate without buzzing on the frets. So, I loosened the neck enough to tilt it up in the pocket to expose the deep "X" in the end of the truss rod in my neck and gave the truss rod 1/4-turn counter-clockwise to allow a little relief back in the neck. Then tightened the neck back down again and tried it out. TA-DA!!....fixed it! The strings are still slightly high above the 12th fret, but not much.

I once again have a nice low action all up and down the neck of my Jazz!

And NUTS, while I was writing this you already got some good info and fixed it. So you better just go Rock it now.

It's impressive how a few millimeters angle can adjust the whole neck, fingerboard, therefore the way you can feel the bass, I think the Warwick bass is easier to play (that is not necessarily better) I can feel that it's a little bit harder the Fender basses, but you can get more tones just by the way you play it.

I'm glad this post can help other people who love playing bass, and love basses