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Fodera Club Part X

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#201
cire113 said:
I just got my YYS in the mail... The only thing is all the frets are clanking.. It looks like the neck is bowed down... Wondering if i should adjust neck or just raise saddles..

Live in florida shipped from NY
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Sight down the neck (looking at the frets) with your eyes up near the headstock and see if the fretboard looks flat or if it has a bend (either way). The proper way to check relief is to fret the E string at the 24th fret and the first fret and see how much space there is between the string and the 7th fret. If the string is sitting on the fret then you need some relief in the neck. If you need some relief then you loosen the truss rod, but just a bit - I don't go more than a 1/4 turn at most, then let it settle.

I do find that the neck on the YYS is sensitive to weather changes. I've had to tweak my truss rod a bit as temps/humidity have moved here. But that's what it is for.

Also, you may have to rethink your playing style. The YYS is not a "forgiving" bass, especially with the action low. It will point out any notes that you don't fret properly, and if you pluck hard with low action it likely won't sound good. So you'll need to set it up to your preferences and get to know it.
 
#202
Hou said:
Here is what I believe is Matt's new bass

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
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One question I had for Jason (or anyone else who might know) had to do with Anthony Jackson's current Presentation - in that photo album, in pic 51, there appears to be some sort of small switch or something in addition to the XLR jack on the front of his bass. That surprises and intrigues me, with how adamant he is about minimizing controls and wiring in his instrument. Any idea what that switch is/does?

Many thanks!
 
#204
superfunk47 said:
One question I had for Jason (or anyone else who might know) had to do with Anthony Jackson's current Presentation - in that photo album, in pic 51, there appears to be some sort of small switch or something in addition to the XLR jack on the front of his bass. That surprises and intrigues me, with how adamant he is about minimizing controls and wiring in his instrument. Any idea what that switch is/does?

Many thanks!
Click to expand...

I think that's a little light when XLR is acttacted
 
#205
Ok i loosened the truss rod a bit and it seems to straightened will let it settle...

The coolest thing about the Yin Yang is how good it smells! Oh my lord does it smell just lovely... I just played it for about an hour its real nice.. Cant wait till the neck breaks in after some use

I'm not sure how the strap buttons work.. Do I need a special type of strap to use it?

All in all this thing rox.. So many tones you can get its amazing
 
#206
@cire113

Here's a quick video on how to install your strap locks. Not the best vid, but it gets the point across. I didn't know anything about them, either, and I had no problem installing them... Remove/Install Dunlop Straplocks - YouTube ...and, no, you don't need a special strap, though you may need to carve out a bit of leather on an existing one. I didn't even bother to do that on the crappy strap I used, and the leather can just be 'pushed aside' when you snap the ring in place. Pretty simple.
 
#208
nostatic said:
I'd think a bit about the fret size. While I'm fine with the large frets on my YYS, I have to say that the Nordstrand I had with vintage size frets was probably the most "easy playing" bass I've owned. This is one thing that attracts me to the stock Garrison spec - small frets. And I'm curious about the 33" scale. I do my best to duck tendonitis, and my brief forays with 30" scale Mouses made me appreciate a smaller scale length.

Were I to spec a Garrison, I'd go 33" scale, 26 small frets, 18mm spacing, and dual coils. But hard to go wrong either way.
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Todd...going back to an older post, I was like you on the 33" scale. The frets, I think, are going to be a non-issue. I like the ones on the YY, and I have no reason, really, to change. The scale, though, was something I really did want to do, that is 33 versus 34. I've said before that I am REALLY small, short arms, tiny hands, and anything to reduce the distance between frets is a positive, in my mind. However, Jason felt that if I was okay with a 34", that I ought to stay with that for a 5 string in particular. He didn't articulate, but I'm gathering that there is probably a tone/feel issue with a low B on a 33. Just guessing, however. I can certainly live with a 34", and in fact haven't played anything less than that.
 
#209
superfunk47 said:
One question I had for Jason (or anyone else who might know) had to do with Anthony Jackson's current Presentation - in that photo album, in pic 51, there appears to be some sort of small switch or something in addition to the XLR jack on the front of his bass. That surprises and intrigues me, with how adamant he is about minimizing controls and wiring in his instrument. Any idea what that switch is/does?

Many thanks!
Click to expand...



"We have added a coil tap, allowing the pickup to be run in either single or dual coil mode and the bridge has been black anodized (it remains titanium)..." (http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f8/fodera-club-part-vii-743821/index4.html#post10507103)
 
#211
curt basner said:
Todd...going back to an older post, I was like you on the 33" scale. The frets, I think, are going to be a non-issue. I like the ones on the YY, and I have no reason, really, to change. The scale, though, was something I really did want to do, that is 33 versus 34. I've said before that I am REALLY small, short arms, tiny hands, and anything to reduce the distance between frets is a positive, in my mind. However, Jason felt that if I was okay with a 34", that I ought to stay with that for a 5 string in particular. He didn't articulate, but I'm gathering that there is probably a tone/feel issue with a low B on a 33. Just guessing, however. I can certainly live with a 34", and in fact haven't played anything less than that.
Click to expand...

Physics is physics, and all other things being equal a longer scale is going to make it easier to get a "good" B-string. But every design is a collection of compromises so it depends on what is prioritized. Seems that 34" is a good solution for all-around performance if you pay attention to materials and construction. 35" is easier to get the B right but then you start to get some issues with G/D strings and you also have a different playing feel. There are a lot of variables and with humans involved on the final step (ie playing), math only gets you so far. This is one reason I'm a fan of telling the builder what I'm trying to achieve and then giving them a fair amount of latitude in the build. There are only a handful of builders who I trust to that extent and Fodera certainly is one of them.
 
#213
On the 33" scale debate - I've recently picked up a 33.3" scale 4 string Ritter and I'm amazed at how much of a difference the slightly shorter scale makes in terms of playability.

On a 4 it's really not affecting tone or definition of the E at all and it sounds really punchy and full.

However, the real difference is that it just feels really comfortable to play and I'm finding I can whizz around the fretboard with more fluency than anything else I've ever played :)
 
#216
Premek said:
Hi guys,

maybe a stupid question for You but I'm not really sure... I want change my pickups on these Fodera Club Part VIII - Page 26 - TalkBass Forums

and thought about Aeros, H series.

Do You know them, on Foderas? I never heard it and there are not many possibilities to find it on the web.

Thanks!
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My Emperor Deluxe has Aeros, the bass sounds very clear, but I have not tried these pickups on anther bass, or tried my bass with other pickups, so I cant really comment on their sound in comparison to other pickups. They are killer looking, that´s for sure!
 
#219
Premek said:
Hi guys,

maybe a stupid question for You but I'm not really sure... I want change my pickups on these Fodera Club Part VIII - Page 26 - TalkBass Forums

and thought about Aeros, H series.

Do You know them, on Foderas? I never heard it and there are not many possibilities to find it on the web.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

I hated the Aeros I had in my Emperor. I swapped them out for Nordstrand singles and was much happier.
 
#220
Question for Jason: have Fodera basses some degree of neck back-angle or is the neck parallel to the body? And, with regard to this particular subject (the way neck insert into the body) are any differences between bolt-ons, set-necks and neck-throughs?
 
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