Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
- Status
no, a dovetail is a separate neck glued to a separate body. Neck-through is the neck running the length of the bass and the body is a pair of "wings" glued onto the neck.
This shows the wings more obviously. The walnut is two separate pieces. The alder is the "tone block" glued onto the neck that runs the length of the instrument.
- Jan 7, 2008
- 2,196
- 224
- 39
- Disclosures
- Endorsing Artist: Olinto, La Bella, JuleAmps, Epifani
looks like ebony covers to me....
and I get the difference between the neck through and the set neck (I own a neck through Imperial) but since the neck is a separate piece connected to a tone block accompanied by two wings, that joint of rosewood or whatever that dark wood is is still a fancy dovetail joint isn't it? I just don't see why that dovetail is different than the dovetail set neck joint. They're both connecting the neck to the body, only one body is solid and the other is several pieces....
and I get the difference between the neck through and the set neck (I own a neck through Imperial) but since the neck is a separate piece connected to a tone block accompanied by two wings, that joint of rosewood or whatever that dark wood is is still a fancy dovetail joint isn't it? I just don't see why that dovetail is different than the dovetail set neck joint. They're both connecting the neck to the body, only one body is solid and the other is several pieces....
No. A dovetail is a body that has a cutout (of varying shapes depending on the build) and the neck is glued to it. For the neck through, the tone block and the contrasting wood are planks that are glued onto the neck blank. Take a look at some of the photos in this gallery. The Monarch being built is a dovetail but you'll see some neck-through necks that don't have body wings yet. Photo 14 shows a neck-through neck sitting behind the monarch. You can see the various wood layers prior to wings or shaping.
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
No.
I's mostly visual If I remember comments correctly,that were made here in the past.
Just Thumpin'
Commercial User
- Mar 7, 2008
- 4,534
- 1,664
- Disclosures
- Manager and Partner, Fodera Guitars (10/14/09 - 12/16/19)
Just Thumpin'
Commercial User
- Mar 7, 2008
- 4,534
- 1,664
- Disclosures
- Manager and Partner, Fodera Guitars (10/14/09 - 12/16/19)
Just Thumpin'
Commercial User
- Mar 7, 2008
- 4,534
- 1,664
- Disclosures
- Manager and Partner, Fodera Guitars (10/14/09 - 12/16/19)
It is a "spice," if you will. The body, neck and FB all have more of an impact on overall tone.
Regards,
Jason
Regards,
Jason
This 6-string Emperor II is listed as a Monarch 4 Bolt-On on the site
http://www.fodera.com/Main/NewBornDetails.aspx?FeaturedItemID=562
http://www.fodera.com/Main/NewBornDetails.aspx?FeaturedItemID=562
Just Thumpin'
Commercial User
- Mar 7, 2008
- 4,534
- 1,664
- Disclosures
- Manager and Partner, Fodera Guitars (10/14/09 - 12/16/19)
Fixing that now!!
Actually its a new model that looks like an Emperor II 6-string but we call a Monarch 4!
J
Actually its a new model that looks like an Emperor II 6-string but we call a Monarch 4!
J
You're right of course but I can see why he thought that: on elite models with solid tops there really is actually very little of the neck wood which makes it past the fretboard. The dovetail neck joint does go surprising deep into the body as well. The biggest difference between the elite (at least with the solid top) and the deluxe is in the construction method rather than the end result. Personally I like the dovetail but I do like the idea of the heel block being a different wood to give some tonal spice. Actually, if you had the same wood for the tone block and the body on a solid top elite it would be very similar to a dovetail, albeit with a very different construction method. Is this common? I guess not as from an aesthetic point of view it might be a bit boring and I don't recall seeing many.
Of course without a solid top it's a lot further from a dovetail.
Aren't some dovetails supposed to have the fretboard higher off the body? Is this to get more of the top wood into the dovetail; to make it thicker and less likely to break?
Don't know what others think but I always preferred access to the higher frets on a dovetail as well.
I think one of the main differences between the neck joints (other than the obvious wood working) is the neck contour. The dovetail looks like it gets pretty flat on the back of the neck where it meets the body. The neck through construction allows the contour of the neck to remain rounded farther up the neck.
I love the aesthetics of the dovetail, but I think I would prefer the feel of the neck through.
I love the aesthetics of the dovetail, but I think I would prefer the feel of the neck through.
Hi Fodera fans.
I've been considering the possibility of Fodera ownership. It won't be too soon but as soon as finances were to allow but of course I've been batting specs about and thinking about different options. Maybe you guys could help me out with a few questions.
I'm dead set on a singlecut but I can't make up my mind between the Emperor II or Imperial. I currently play a fretless jazz but I've always loved that extra warmth you get from a Precision. Tonally my favourite players are Juan Alderete, Janek Gwizdala and of course Jaco. I can't seem to figure out if there are any very significant differences between the body styles though or is it mostly down to aesthetics? Is there a characteristic sound from two identically specced basses with the different shapes?
It will be a four string lined fretless.
Pretty standard tonewoods, Alder body, 5-piece Maple neck, possibly Spalted Maple top and Brazilian Rosewood fingerboard. (Am I mad to spend the money on Brazilian on a fretless? I like to use roundwounds and I would potentially even want the fingerboard to be epoxy coated for extra mwah and longevity. Would it be a waste of a good piece of Brazilian that might find a good home on some other persons bass?) Also how do people like Spalted Maple as a top wood? I don't really want an overly ornate looking bass as I would like something almost plain and understated, I'm hoping this will be a bass that becomes my most prized possession but for it's sound, craftsmanship and playability rather than being a piece of furniture. Are there any other top woods you might recommend?
I like quite an old school tone, very warm and rich rather than the more modern brash tone some people are into.
I'm used to playing a Fender Jazz but would it be worth going for a longer scale length due to the tonal benefits of something longer? Bearing in mind though the need for precision in fingering on a fretless?
I don't particularly want active electronics. I would potentially consider either Nordstrand pickups or something vintage Fender. Definitely singlecoil. Most likely a P/J configuration with individual volumes, master tone and a three way toggle. Should I get the Pope preamp and active pickups though? Am I limiting my bass by going for my preferred passive setup? I know it's down to my preference but would it be foolish to miss out on the options available with the recommended setup on such a special instrument?
Aside from that it's mainly down to the small details. Ramp (Does wood choice for ramp have any real effect or is it just aesthetic personal choice?) Drop-Tuner and maybe some of the nice wooden control panel covers but they're just icing.
Sorry for the longwinded questions but I would love to hear your opinions on these queries I have and hopefully your wisdom and experience of Fodera will help me to choose how I ought to spec a bass for life!
Thanks guys, any input is greatly appreciated,
Erik
I've been considering the possibility of Fodera ownership. It won't be too soon but as soon as finances were to allow but of course I've been batting specs about and thinking about different options. Maybe you guys could help me out with a few questions.
I'm dead set on a singlecut but I can't make up my mind between the Emperor II or Imperial. I currently play a fretless jazz but I've always loved that extra warmth you get from a Precision. Tonally my favourite players are Juan Alderete, Janek Gwizdala and of course Jaco. I can't seem to figure out if there are any very significant differences between the body styles though or is it mostly down to aesthetics? Is there a characteristic sound from two identically specced basses with the different shapes?
It will be a four string lined fretless.
Pretty standard tonewoods, Alder body, 5-piece Maple neck, possibly Spalted Maple top and Brazilian Rosewood fingerboard. (Am I mad to spend the money on Brazilian on a fretless? I like to use roundwounds and I would potentially even want the fingerboard to be epoxy coated for extra mwah and longevity. Would it be a waste of a good piece of Brazilian that might find a good home on some other persons bass?) Also how do people like Spalted Maple as a top wood? I don't really want an overly ornate looking bass as I would like something almost plain and understated, I'm hoping this will be a bass that becomes my most prized possession but for it's sound, craftsmanship and playability rather than being a piece of furniture. Are there any other top woods you might recommend?
I like quite an old school tone, very warm and rich rather than the more modern brash tone some people are into.
I'm used to playing a Fender Jazz but would it be worth going for a longer scale length due to the tonal benefits of something longer? Bearing in mind though the need for precision in fingering on a fretless?
I don't particularly want active electronics. I would potentially consider either Nordstrand pickups or something vintage Fender. Definitely singlecoil. Most likely a P/J configuration with individual volumes, master tone and a three way toggle. Should I get the Pope preamp and active pickups though? Am I limiting my bass by going for my preferred passive setup? I know it's down to my preference but would it be foolish to miss out on the options available with the recommended setup on such a special instrument?
Aside from that it's mainly down to the small details. Ramp (Does wood choice for ramp have any real effect or is it just aesthetic personal choice?) Drop-Tuner and maybe some of the nice wooden control panel covers but they're just icing.
Sorry for the longwinded questions but I would love to hear your opinions on these queries I have and hopefully your wisdom and experience of Fodera will help me to choose how I ought to spec a bass for life!
Thanks guys, any input is greatly appreciated,
Erik
I have a 5-string fretless in the pipeline right now (strung E-C) so I've talked with Jason about many of the options. Given what you've said, I'd suggest the following:
body shape - doesn't matter - whatever you like the look of.
body wood - if you want alder, cool (especially if you want more old school tone), but think about walnut as well
neck - Jason has been recommending ash necks for the fretless. Think about 3 or 5-piece ash
fingerboard - ebony. I wouldn't spend the upcharge for Braz rw on a fretless, especially if you're going to run round wound strings. I personally hate epoxied fingerboards but that is my personal bias
electronics - I'd go PJ with the Pope, but I vastly prefer active over passive. You can run them passive though - just bypass the preamp.
ramp - I had one on my MGS and removed it. I prefer without but that is a personal bias
D-tuner - yup, I love it.
scale length - 34" no reason to go longer on a 4-string imho
body shape - doesn't matter - whatever you like the look of.
body wood - if you want alder, cool (especially if you want more old school tone), but think about walnut as well
neck - Jason has been recommending ash necks for the fretless. Think about 3 or 5-piece ash
fingerboard - ebony. I wouldn't spend the upcharge for Braz rw on a fretless, especially if you're going to run round wound strings. I personally hate epoxied fingerboards but that is my personal bias
electronics - I'd go PJ with the Pope, but I vastly prefer active over passive. You can run them passive though - just bypass the preamp.
ramp - I had one on my MGS and removed it. I prefer without but that is a personal bias
D-tuner - yup, I love it.
scale length - 34" no reason to go longer on a 4-string imho
Thank for the reply nostatic, some food for thought there. What is the comparison between the ash neck and maple? Also I think deep down inside I know you're right about the fingerboard, I've always loved Brazilian but it's a waste of such a special wood to let it be chewed up by roundwounds.
spalted maple looks nice.
does it have to be brazilian? don't they do indian too?
i have fretless ebony, rosewood and maple boards. they're all nice.
epoxy does have a different sound. i use cyanoacrylic on mine (which also sounds different).
depending on how hard you play—and for how long—you can need epoxy on an ebony board as well.
does it have to be brazilian? don't they do indian too?
i have fretless ebony, rosewood and maple boards. they're all nice.
epoxy does have a different sound. i use cyanoacrylic on mine (which also sounds different).
depending on how hard you play—and for how long—you can need epoxy on an ebony board as well.
My main issue with rosewood boards on fretless is that you're generally fighting to hear the note attack and ebony has a bit more initial attack than rosewood to my ear. It depends on what you're going for though. I often don't necessarily want my fretless to "sound like a fretless" and in the past have played entire gigs that typically would be covered on a fretted with fretless.
I think maple is under-rated as a fretless fingerboard material. And spalted maple is historically one of my favorite materials, though Fodera doesn't seem to use it nearly as much as some other builders. There are a number of choices that can give a "subtle" look though. Depends on what you like.
I think maple is under-rated as a fretless fingerboard material. And spalted maple is historically one of my favorite materials, though Fodera doesn't seem to use it nearly as much as some other builders. There are a number of choices that can give a "subtle" look though. Depends on what you like.
- Status
