Fodera Tone Blocks

[JPMcGuire]

Per early question, my opinion, Foderas sound awesome in P&W too. two cool examples...one walnut body and two mahogany.. I actually think I dig the mahogany better for this, but both awesome

Walnut/ebony


Mahogany/Amazon Rosewood

 

[Westsailor]

Good question. The body on deluxe a bolt on models is typically one piece of some kind of wood. Adding a tone block allows you to spilt the body in three. In my case the two outer wings of bass will be alder and the center piece will be maple or walnut. So the tone block is close to one third of the body mass and imo/imo will have a influence. I'm targeting either maple or walnut to brighten & tighten. Alder on its own can sometimes too big in the lows for the tone I'm going for, but I like its midrange response.

Here's a clip from a bass similar to my target. This one has maple tone block. I will also have a koa top which will influence the tone as well compared to this maple burl.

[/MEDIA]

Thanks for the explanation. All I can say is I can have nothing but major respect for those that can discern the (has to be minuscule) tonal differences in instruments with different tops, tone blocks, etc.. I myself couldn't tell the tonal difference between, say, otherwise "identical" Fender bass guitars MIM, MIA, MIJ. Or a body made of alder vs basswood.

I can however hear tonal differences from my bass depending on preamp/amp, strings, temp/humidity, equalization, space/venue, etc.. Seems to me these factors would impact tone far greater than any tone block might overcome. Unless you only plan to always use the instrument in the same setting/studio, etc.? Not being snarky/argumentative, just umm... realistic?

Kudos however for needing (not to mention being able to afford) such a world class instrument as my untrained ear opinion is worth about this >||< much.

 

[Midak]

Per early question, my opinion, Foderas sound awesome in P&W too. two cool examples...one walnut body and two mahogany.. I actually think I dig the mahogany better for this, but both awesome

Walnut/ebony


Mahogany/Amazon Rosewood

I don't think comparing basses through such videos to be wise; no info on amplification (definitely not the same rigs/settings), different players.
Your best advise is the people at Fodera. @Just Thumpin' would be able to help through here, too.

Good luck with the built and enjoy owning a wonderful instrument and piece of art.

 

[Edgar]

This question could have been answered with a single phone call at the Fodera shop (or an email to Phil) IMO. They really know what works best, what will help achieve the tone you have in your head.

I feel that a tone block has a pretty significant effect on the sound of an instrument (...when you break it down to the various wood components). More so that the wood used on the fingerboard (YMMV). Keep in mind that they call it a "Tone Block"... but no tone block might be the way to go for your Deluxe built.

No two (tone block) piece of alder/walnut/maple/chestnut/ash/... will sound exactly the same. The knuckle wrap test help them select the one piece that will correspond the most to your desired overall sonic signature of your built (fine tuning) in accordance with the wings, solid top, neck, fingerboard et al.

I don't think I've ever seen a mahogany tone block. I'm betting they would advise against it if someone would ask.

If weight is an issue/concern, you might wanna entertain the idea to have the instrument chambered ($500 USD option).

You can also opt for a titanium bridge to lower the weight even more ($1750 USD option for a 5 strings).

 

[JPMcGuire]

Hi Edgar. Thanks for your feedback. I worked with Phil who has been exceptionally helpful. I had a call with him this week and he really helped me finalize what the best spec for me is. It ended up as a walnut body, ash tone block, maple neck, macassar ebony board, redwood burl top. Titanium truss rod to reduce abit of weight, three way coil tap. Dual Duncan's in 70s position. I was struggling/overthinking due to all the great options aval! Fodera team does a great job for sure helping develope the design with you. Also, some great feedback from tb folks who have had Fodera experience like yourself.

This question could have been answered with a single phone call at the Fodera shop (or an email to Phil) IMO. They really know what works best, what will help achieve the tone you have in your head.

I feel that a tone block has a pretty significant effect on the sound of an instrument (...when you break it down to the various wood components). More so that the wood used on the fingerboard (YMMV). Keep in mind that they call it a "Tone Block"... but no tone block might be the way to go for your Deluxe built.

No two (tone block) piece of alder/walnut/maple/chestnut/ash/... will sound exactly the same. The knuckle wrap test help them select the one piece that will correspond the most to your desired overall sonic signature of your built (fine tuning) in accordance with the wings, solid top, neck, fingerboard et al.

I don't think I've ever seen a mahogany tone block. I'm betting they would advise against it if someone would ask.

If weight is an issue/concern, you might wanna entertain the idea to have the instrument chambered ($500 USD option).

You can also opt for a titanium bridge to lower the weight even more ($1750 USD option for a 5 strings).

 

[Edgar]

Hi Edgar. Thanks for your feedback. I worked with Phil who has been exceptionally helpful. I had a call with him this week and he really helped me finalize what the best spec for me is. It ended up as a walnut body, ash tone block, maple neck, macassar ebony board, redwood burl top. Titanium truss rod to reduce abit of weight, three way coil tap. Dual Duncan's in 70s position. I was struggling/overthinking due to all the great options aval! Fodera team does a great job for sure helping develope the design with you.

Heck, I remember when I first got into Fodera. I was so confuse with the whole line up and range of options, I had to sit down, study the website, price list and take notes.

Just by reading your latest post, I've just learn that they offer a titanium truss rod and a three way coil tap!

Your built sound very promising. I also have a walnut body (Elite, with flame maple tone block), 3-pcs maple neck and Macassar ebony fingerboard.

Are you going for a redwood burl top or, solid-top?

 

[Edgar]

Oups, just remember your's gonna be a Deluxe!

 

[JPMcGuire]

Yes deluxe with a tone block. I actually prefer the deluxe neck joint best from foderas I've tried. Feels great in upper register and also looks cool to me. I love walnut tone and just a touch of that ash snap. To much ash can be to harsh for me imo/Ime. Redwood burl top is nice and light to contribute to weight savings and also warmth/not influencing the tone as much.

 

[gkbass13]

Congrats on the build! I absolutely love my walnut/ash/ebony Imperial 5. A classic and killer Fodera wood combo that is both articulate and versatile. Keep us updated in the Fodera club thread.

 

[bucephylus]

Hi all fodera aficionados

I'm at the last leg for finalizing my fodera spec before the lock in and struggling with one remaining item, the tone block wood choice. I've goten lots of good feedback from friends but still can't fully picture how a walnut vs maple tone block would influence how the bass speaks and thought i would put this out for some further input from greater community.

Here are the for sure specs. Bass will primarily be used in worship and jazz settings, but hoping would be able to handle a rock/pop or jam band gig if needed too. I like tight low end with punch and sustain and fairly articulate highs that sound great for chords but have enough heft not to sound thin and get lost in a big mix.

Monarch Deluxe 5 (dovetail)
Alder body wings
Tone block: walnut or maple?
Macasaar ebony board
Maple neck
Dual Duncan's in 70s
34 scale
Flamed koa top
Weight target around 10lbs

Thanks in advance for sharing your expertise!

I have never played a Fodera; so take this FWIW.

Considering instruments I have gigged with a maple body (Alembic) and a walnut body (Tobias), I find that the maple gives a bit more of what I can only call a "rubbery resonant" feel with a bit of softness on the initial attack followed by swell; while the walnut tends to give a more "wood blocks" percussive response. With either wood in full body build the difference in the resonant response of the instrument is quite distinct. A tone block should be something more subtle; but that's the direction of influence you should get.

I prefer walnut, due to the percussive cut. But, YMMV.

 

[barry irwin]

So you're gonna spend what?

8...10k on a bass that you will use for some jazz and IMO waste at a "worship service".

Buy what you want but a MIM P bass can do all that to for less than $500.

I never would spend that kinda scratch and use it in any kinda live setting.

Do what you will with your money.

I wouldn't trade my Jazz bass for a Fodera.

Joel I think you on the wrong forum. Maybe try Walmart I'm sure they will have like minded individuals like yourself.