Fodera Tone Blocks

[madbass6]

Hi all fodera aficionados

I'm at the last leg for finalizing my fodera spec before the lock in and struggling with one remaining item, the tone block wood choice. I've goten lots of good feedback from friends but still can't fully picture how a walnut vs maple tone block would influence how the bass speaks and thought i would put this out for some further input from greater community.

Here are the for sure specs. Bass will primarily be used in worship and jazz settings, but hoping would be able to handle a rock/pop or jam band gig if needed too. I like tight low end with punch and sustain and fairly articulate highs that sound great for chords but have enough heft not to sound thin and get lost in a big mix.

Monarch Deluxe 5 (dovetail)
Alder body wings
Tone block: walnut or maple?
Macasaar ebony board
Maple neck
Dual Duncan's in 70s
34 scale
Flamed koa top
Weight target around 10lbs

Thanks in advance for sharing your expertise!

Smart of you to ask such a question before getting it finished! How ever you might be over thinking it just a bit, I have two foderas a 4 STRING ying yang S, & a SS emperor 5 string!
no tone blocks on neither of them and they both sound awesome! Maybe no tone block is the answer! (Just maybe)
good luck! enjoy!

 

[bassballs27]

I wasn't aware that you could get a tone block with a Deluxe, but you learn something new every day. Leave it to the boys at Fodera. I voted for the Maple tone block if you're looking to tighten up the sound and add some top end to it. The Walnut would be a bit darker. Good luck with your new bass, it sounds great.

Yep, you can even get a tone block on a bolt-on. It's pricier....but can be done. So, you're not limited to just the highest priced elite model.

 

[rmayer]

I'd still stick with a Walnut tone block for what you're trying to achieve in terms of tone.
As much as maple can be used as a body wood....it tends to be a very neutral sounding wood (though not everyone agrees that it is, some say it brings some mids and highs). But the earlier suggestion of the Alder tone block and walnut wings is a tried a true combination too. That's what Matt Garrison used on his signature model.

The Alder tone block is a good suggestion too. I would even consider it with the Alder body wings, that's what I have on my Monarch Elite and with the Dual Coils (also in the 70s positions) there's plenty of highs.

 

[bassballs27]

You could also see if they have any Chestnut tone blocks available! Even though Fodera always says they don't have anymore, some of it keeps popping up! Chestnut is somewhat similar to maple....but it is a different wood.

I suppose you could do an alder tone block and alder body. They did that on the monarch trio basses.
The three monarch basses that they made out of the same woods but each one had the three neck joints: bolt-on, deluxe, and elite. They were alder / brazilian though. Macassar will still team great with alder.....even with ash too.

 

[Snaxster]

I may be wrong, but a tone block may be only on neck through. I have two awesome dovetails, and neither have a tone block. It may not be feasible with that construction.

Hello. No, a tone block is among the normal set of options for a Fodera Deluxe bass. In fact, Phil told me that, though it isn't well-known these days, that used to be the default construction for Monarch Deluxe basses many years ago.

For example in 2012 Fodera described their limited edition Victor Wooten Classic Monarch as "a Limited Edition of six EXACT replicas of Victor Wooten's original Monarch (Fodera #37)", and each of those basses features a maple tone block.

 

[bassballs27]

Here was my former Japanese Maple Emperor Bolt-on Custom with an alder body and ash tone block:
Japanese Maple Emperor 5 Bolt-On

 

[groooooove]

So you're gonna spend what?

8...10k on a bass that you will use for some jazz and IMO waste at a "worship service".

Buy what you want but a MIM P bass can do all that to for less than $500.

I never would spend that kinda scratch and use it in any kinda live setting.

Do what you will with your money.

I wouldn't trade my Jazz bass for a Fodera.

he's asking for opinions about a very specific feature on a specific bass between two specific choices of wood.

you go on to tell us about what you would and would not do with your money..

i have a feeling the OP can afford to spend what a fodera costs, and feels inspired by high level luthier skills. I know i play lots of nonsense gigs on my expensive completely handmade basses; it makes the music-making experience a good one. i also sometimes use a P bass and thats fun too. but i'd never tell someone who likes ferrari's and can afford them that they're nuts for buying one if they're just driving around town in it.

 

[Snaxster]

I may be wrong, but a tone block may be only on neck through. I have two awesome dovetails, and neither have a tone block. It may not be feasible with that construction.

Hello. No, a tone block is among the normal set of options for a Fodera Deluxe bass. In fact, Phil told me that, though it isn't well-known these days, that used to be the default construction for Monarch Deluxe basses many years ago.

For example in 2012 Fodera described their limited edition Victor Wooten Classic Monarch as "a Limited Edition of six EXACT replicas of Victor Wooten's original Monarch (Fodera #37)", and each of those basses features a maple tone block.

View attachment 2777062

More about this that I just remembered:

When months ago I was specifying my now-pending second custom Fodera, at first I was clear about wanting a Monarch 4 Elite (neck through). One of my main inspirations for this bass was James Genus's 1990s Emperor 5 Elite, which features a topless northern ash body, maple neck, Indian rosewood fingerboard, and maple tone block.

As I considered various alternative designs for achieving my main criteria, I realized that a Deluxe (dovetail) with a tone block was kind of a "poor man's neck through".

This was because the difference in those two construction methods meant that the dovetail/tone block would always cost much less than neck through/tone block, especially if a solid top were added to both (in which case it would cost much, much less).

 

[GBassNorth]

So you're gonna spend what?

8...10k on a bass that you will use for some jazz and IMO waste at a "worship service".

Buy what you want but a MIM P bass can do all that to for less than $500.

I never would spend that kinda scratch and use it in any kinda live setting.

Do what you will with your money.

I wouldn't trade my Jazz bass for a Fodera.

Nice post Joel, real classy there (not).

Before you lecture the OP on spending more money than needed to get the sound he's after I'd suggest you look in your profile and do some soul searching. You have two Fender American Standard basses listed as your main gear. Gee dontcha think you should off those in favor of a pair of MIM Fenders like you scolded the OP to do? And after you've done that, you might want to jump over to the Squier clubs to see what they have to say about spending twice as much on a MIM when the less expensive Squier will do the same job.

Value, like beauty, is in the eye of the beholder. And in this case the beholder is smitten with the visual, tactile and oral beauty of Fodera. It's a very highly respected rock solid instrument and an excellent choice for someone that can afford it. I'm sure it will fit beautifully in any P&W or Jazz setting for the OP.

 

[GBassNorth]

Hi all fodera aficionados

I'm at the last leg for finalizing my fodera spec before the lock in and struggling with one remaining item, the tone block wood choice. I've goten lots of good feedback from friends but still can't fully picture how a walnut vs maple tone block would influence how the bass speaks and thought i would put this out for some further input from greater community.

Here are the for sure specs. Bass will primarily be used in worship and jazz settings, but hoping would be able to handle a rock/pop or jam band gig if needed too. I like tight low end with punch and sustain and fairly articulate highs that sound great for chords but have enough heft not to sound thin and get lost in a big mix.

Monarch Deluxe 5 (dovetail)
Alder body wings
Tone block: walnut or maple?
Macasaar ebony board
Maple neck
Dual Duncan's in 70s
34 scale
Flamed koa top
Weight target around 10lbs

Thanks in advance for sharing your expertise!

JPM - I voted walnut for the sonic goal you're after. If you decide to go down that path why not ask Fodera if they can spice the tone block up a bit with some 5A figured wood. Here's a pic of my Spector in flamed walnut, something like this would look killer sandwiched between the Alder wings...

 

[JPMcGuire]

Yes, exact exercise I went through. I've had both elites and dovetails. I actually prefer dovetails, looks and tone wise. The dovetail neck joint looks so cool in person and feels better to me when playing in upper register. I also have found similar to others conclusions the dovetail is a cross in tone/dynamics between a neck through and bolt on (I.e. Sharper attack on bolt on, move even response on neck through)

The reason for considering a tone block is to further tune the tone and weight to your liking. All alder to me is great and makes for a nice light bass but I already have that covered with several great basses. They are traditional and full sounding. Looking for the essence of that plus tighter, more articulate response, but still conserving that deep low warm tone. When doing the jazz gigs this is especially apparent doing quicker linear solo lines or chords. An all walnut body or walnut wings is attractive, but weight would be closer to 11lbs and I loose some of the "fender jazz warmth", but they do sound great for a certain type of music/tone goal. There frames the dilemma.

Thanks for all the feedback. Interesting to hear all the prospectives.

More about this that I just remembered:

When months ago I was specifying my now-pending second custom Fodera, at first I was clear about wanting a Monarch 4 Elite (neck through). One of my main inspirations for this bass was James Genus's 1990s Emperor 5 Elite, which features a topless northern ash body, maple neck, Indian rosewood fingerboard, and maple tone block.

As I considered various alternative designs for achieving my main criteria, I realized that a Deluxe (dovetail) with a tone block was kind of a "poor man's neck through".

This was because the difference in those two construction methods meant that the dovetail/tone block would always cost much less than neck through/tone block, especially if a solid top were added to both (in which case it would cost much, much less).

 

[Gnal]

I voted Walnut, I've got an MG Elite I've been using for P&W for a bit now. It's got an ash neck w/ ebony board with walnut wings and an alder toneblock. Walnut and alder seem like a good pairing, this MG sounds huge and the tech guys love it too.

 

[Kmrumedy]

Cool thread and an awesome experience to be working with a top tier builder like Fodera.

My vote was walnut based on your desired tone from what I could tell by some of your answers. Is mahogany an option for tone block? Walnut with mahogany is a beautiful combination.

I noticed the video you posted as an example of a desirable tone and build was based on a 36 scale instrument. Tighter string tension with associated tone. I guess something to think about.

I love the look of Koa but having owned two basses with this wood the tone never knocked me out. But that could be one of a thousand variables. But still....it keeps me away from Koa now.

Enjoy your build and don't go crazy during your wait time! Lol!

Congrats.

 

[JPMcGuire]

Kmremedy

Good point on the koa. What are some deluxe tops you would recommend that may go better with alder body/walnut tone block? Looking cool and letting the bass breath more.

Cool thread and an awesome experience to be working with a top tier builder like Fodera.

My vote was walnut based on your desired tone from what I could tell by some of your answers. Is mahogany an option for tone block? Walnut with mahogany is a beautiful combination.

I noticed the video you posted as an example of a desirable tone and build was based on a 36 scale instrument. Tighter string tension with associated tone. I guess something to think about.

I love the look of Koa but having owned two basses with this wood the tone never knocked me out. But that could be one of a thousand variables. But still....it keeps me away from Koa now.

Enjoy your build and don't go crazy during your wait time! Lol!

Congrats.

 

[nostatic]

I think the tone block has minimal effect on the tone. If it were me, I'd ditch the center block and get chambered walnut but that's just me. The one bass that ends up getting most of my playing is my YYD that is chambered walnut with ebony and satin wood top, dovetail neck. Just tracked with it last night and it just works.

 

[gwangi]

JPM - I voted walnut for the sonic goal you're after. If you decide to go down that path why not ask Fodera if they can spice the tone block up a bit with some 5A figured wood. Here's a pic of my Spector in flamed walnut, something like this would look killer sandwiched between the Alder wings...
View attachment 2777112

HOLY CRAPE PAPER!!!! That is BEAUTIFUL!!!!

 

[JPMcGuire]

My brain is hurting studying this. Lol. I may be coming to conclusion one Fodera may not cover everything in my vision. I play 6 as well for 40% of time. An idea, I may have to target two foderas longer term.

This five: mahogany body, figured walnut top, macassar ebony board, 70s dual d's. very full and rich to cover P&W, jam band (just picked up a Dave Matthews tribute gig), other pop, funk, type gigs. I was going this route at one time, but mahogany with koa just was to hype in the mids for me, nasally in the mids. I think walnut top would work better and allow me extra $ to put toward future 6. I had a hog body deluxe Fodera and dug it's inherent mid range a lot.

Future six: articulate wood combo, similar to tony grey tribute. Walnut body, possibly 33 scale, possible 17.5 spacing. Better for chords, jazz trio and occasional solo gig with loopers I like to do!

 

[Kmrumedy]

Kmremedy

Good point on the koa. What are some deluxe tops you would recommend that may go better with alder body/walnut tone block? Looking cool and letting the bass breath more.

I'm a pre-CBS guy like you so my wood choices tend to be safe when spending $5K +. I'm a big fan of mahogany body walnut tops ( Dark presentation grade Ebony top is also beautiful but adds weight and a little darker tone). I like ebony fretboards with this combination. It is what I like and had Ken Smith make me one with these woods. I am not sure how that works with Fodera models. But it is a tried and true wood combo providing predictable tone - that might somehow relieve the fingernail biting associated with woods on a $8k - $10k build that you are not quite sure of the final tone result.

 

[JPMcGuire]

Thanks. Some of the best feedback. The walnut top solves my dilemma with the koa/mahogany combo option. Walnut top helps tighten the lows/low mids on a hog bass. I've heard on hog basses the top has more influence than normal, which in this case is a good thing. I had two mtds with this combo and they were so stellar, just 35 scale which I grew tired of. The hog Fodera deluxe I had sounded incredible in a large venue mix too, just a little heavy weight and had an Indian rw board, not enough articulation. Would be a good alternative to my 4 string precbs basses, which are great but not 5 strings and do not possess the note to note precision of a Fodera.

This option is less expensive and leaves some cash on the table to put toward an walnut based 6. Which for six I want extreme articulation it would offer. But that is for a narrower scope of gigs. Those basses don't do as well for me on the big band mix scenarios.

With a two bass option our friend Joe is having a heart attack. lol

Ps. I've had great opportunities to play big jazz festivals and lucky enough to play with some great jazz musicians from well known bands. My praise and worship gig is one of my favorite gigs to date. Great positive atmosphere/message, amazing sound reenforcement, and playing regularly for thousands of great people. I believe it's great to play a variety of music types, makes you a much better musician and person seeing different prospectives as well. Some amazing p&w/gospel bass players here in Detroit to learn from as well!

I'm a pre-CBS guy like you so my wood choices tend to be safe when spending $5K +. I'm a big fan of mahogany body walnut tops ( Dark presentation grade Ebony top is also beautiful but adds weight and a little darker tone). I like ebony fretboards with this combination. It is what I like and had Ken Smith make me one with these woods. I am not sure how that works with Fodera models. But it is a tried and true wood combo providing predictable tone - that might somehow relieve the fingernail biting associated with woods on a $8k - $10k build that you are not quite sure of the final tone result.

 

[Kmrumedy]

This all reads to me that you know exactly what you are doing and just proceeding with a proper and cautious mind set. Absolutely wonderful. Can't wait to see what you finally get.