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- Feb 16, 2008
- 21,240
- 23,638
- Disclosures
- John K Custom Basses
Another vote for Hakko, I love mine (FX-888D). I ordered mine with S3 (large "screwdriver" type tip), D32 (smaller chisel) and a fine conical tip for surface mount. Now I'm all set.
Solder-newb here, so I've been using a friend's Goot 100w...
I've got a 936 Hakko-clone power supply/station, but no iron. Long story.
Should've just bought the 888 when I saw one. Also was looking at the Aoyue stuff.
I've got a 936 Hakko-clone power supply/station, but no iron. Long story.
Should've just bought the 888 when I saw one. Also was looking at the Aoyue stuff.
I'm partial to metcal myself, but they're pretty expensive. The Weller would be my next choice. We have a Weller hot air pencil at work that I wouldn't take anything for.
I used a Metcal 25 years ago. It was an awesome station, but everything about it was VERY expensive. Probably the best SMD station that I have ever used.
-Frank
Same here!!Solder-newb here, so I've been using a friend's Goot 100w...
I've got a 936 Hakko-clone power supply/station, but no iron. Long story.
Should've just bought the 888 when I saw one. Also was looking at the Aoyue stuff.
I use a Weller WES51. It heats up very quickly and has enough heat for the heavier instrument and cable work.
The tips are of the same high quality as the older WTCP stations, and are available in many styles and sizes. They are of the same construction, iron clad copper. The main difference is that the WS tips have a well inside them for the thermocouple which senses the temperature. The older WTCP tips incorporated part of the thermostatic mechanism at the back end of the tip itself; you had to change the tip to change the temperature.
A good quality tip will last a long time as long as it's not damaged or oxidized. Chipped or worn off plating will quickly make it unusable. The exposed copper will soon corrode away, leaving the surface cratered. Oxidation may need to be rmoved with abrasives and some iron always gets removed along with the oxidation (it's part of the oxide).
All that's required to keep a tip clean and healthy is a damp sponge. You simply need to use it often enough, applying a bit of fresh solder as necessary to keep it tinned.
This is one of the advantages of a temperature controlled iron - it doesn't cook the tip while it is sitting there idling. The heat supplied is scaled way back while idling and then ramps up quickly when the tip is applied to the work.
Note that stations like the Weller WLC100 are not temperature controlled, they are adjustable heat. They are ok if you don't mind riding the heat control. If you are doing extensive work, you will be constantly raising the setting before use, and lowering it again for idling. Else you will quickly cook the tip.
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The tips are of the same high quality as the older WTCP stations, and are available in many styles and sizes. They are of the same construction, iron clad copper. The main difference is that the WS tips have a well inside them for the thermocouple which senses the temperature. The older WTCP tips incorporated part of the thermostatic mechanism at the back end of the tip itself; you had to change the tip to change the temperature.
A good quality tip will last a long time as long as it's not damaged or oxidized. Chipped or worn off plating will quickly make it unusable. The exposed copper will soon corrode away, leaving the surface cratered. Oxidation may need to be rmoved with abrasives and some iron always gets removed along with the oxidation (it's part of the oxide).
All that's required to keep a tip clean and healthy is a damp sponge. You simply need to use it often enough, applying a bit of fresh solder as necessary to keep it tinned.
This is one of the advantages of a temperature controlled iron - it doesn't cook the tip while it is sitting there idling. The heat supplied is scaled way back while idling and then ramps up quickly when the tip is applied to the work.
Note that stations like the Weller WLC100 are not temperature controlled, they are adjustable heat. They are ok if you don't mind riding the heat control. If you are doing extensive work, you will be constantly raising the setting before use, and lowering it again for idling. Else you will quickly cook the tip.
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I used a Metcal 25 years ago. It was an awesome station, but everything about it was VERY expensive. Probably the best SMD station that I have ever used.
-Frank
Yep I think they're around 4 to 500 new. Someone at work got the bright Idea to replace some of ours with newer models and offered to sell the old ones to the employees . I bought mine for 60 bucks
I can personally vouch for the Hakko. I own the 888 D and we use another model at work as well. Never have issues and the price is reasonable for the quality you get. It gets to temp in a few seconds. Definitely get a few different tips. You can usually find a packaged deal and save some money.
The tip cleaner/tin is very helpful as well. It lasts a long time. I always clean and tin just before I shut off the iron. My tips stay in great condition and don't burn up.
I also recommend very thin solder if you're just starting out with soldering. It melts faster and will help to make sure you don't overheat components trying to get the solder to flow.
The tip cleaner/tin is very helpful as well. It lasts a long time. I always clean and tin just before I shut off the iron. My tips stay in great condition and don't burn up.
I also recommend very thin solder if you're just starting out with soldering. It melts faster and will help to make sure you don't overheat components trying to get the solder to flow.
father of fires
Commercial User
I've been using a Weller WP-35.
To be honest I thought it was a standard iron but I don't see too many people mentioning them.
It's all I've known so It works well for me. I recently stopped using the sponge on my helping hand thing-a-ma-bob at the recommendation of others and just stick to my metal scrubber stuffed into an ash tray.
To be honest I thought it was a standard iron but I don't see too many people mentioning them.
It's all I've known so It works well for me. I recently stopped using the sponge on my helping hand thing-a-ma-bob at the recommendation of others and just stick to my metal scrubber stuffed into an ash tray.
Hello all, I have a question that I didn't think warranted a new thread. I hope this is okay to ask here.
I'm going to replace the pickups and also shield my new P-bass. I'm ordering on Amazon, do I have everything I need?
Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station
Helping Hands
40-60 Solder
Desoldering Wick
Multimeter
Copper Shielding Tape with Conductive Adhesive
I made my choices based on reading around Talkbass.
Also, is there a problem using 40/60 solder instead of 60/40? I already have a roll of 40/60 at home.
I'm going to replace the pickups and also shield my new P-bass. I'm ordering on Amazon, do I have everything I need?
Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station
Helping Hands
40-60 Solder
Desoldering Wick
Multimeter
Copper Shielding Tape with Conductive Adhesive
I made my choices based on reading around Talkbass.
Also, is there a problem using 40/60 solder instead of 60/40? I already have a roll of 40/60 at home.
The first number is the Tin%(Sn) and the second number is for the Lead%(Pb). 60/40 is what you would use for electronic work with lead. Lead free solder for electronics is mostly tin with a little copper like 99.3Sn 0.7Cu.
-Frank
-Frank
Get 60/40 for electronic work.
"With some exceptions, tin-lead solders can be used to solder copper and most copper alloys, lead, nickel alloys and steel. The 40/60 solder is a general purpose solder used for non electrical applications. It is used for applications in the sheet metal, stained glass, galvanized gutters, and radiator repair industries."
-Frank
Weller's have always worked well for me, used to use one every day. Being able to adjust the tip temperature is helpful. I have one that is probably 20 - 25 yrs old, although it doesn't get turned on every day.
