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Fret Buzz Low B bridge adjustment?

Hi guys,

Recently bought my first bass from ebay i was always going for a 4 string with some brand supporting it.
I came across a Schecter Diamond Series Deluxe 5 for a decent price and went for it expecting i would want to move to a 5 eventually.

The bass is in really good condition but like i've been reading fret buzz is very common on the low B
I'm completely new to bass and guitar in general but i'm extremely aware of the damage i could do from tinkering myself.

I've come across a few videos but most of the time its talking about something i know i shouldn't be touching so early into learning!

There is barely a visible fraction of space between the top 2 frets where the buzz is coming from on the B, would it be a really dumb move to slightly raise the string height on the bridge? everything in my head is saying "Don't touch a thing" but i can't never adjust something myself.

I don't have a local guitar shop so its either doing something myself or packing up the car and making a trip to find someone who can do something about it.

The bass other than that plays fine, I play alot of metal with a pick and so the low B buzzes like mad its just a little irritating :/
 
if you play with a pick you will need higher action than a fingerstyle player. So by all means raise the action at the bridge saddles... also check the relief in the neck (ie truss rod adjustment)..both of which are discussed in the setup guide (think its a sticky here).

if the above doesnt fix it, it is not inconceivable that your nut has been slotted too low, but taht is something you should likely get someone else to do (if needed)
 
...There is barely a visible fraction of space between the top 2 frets where the buzz is coming from on the B, would it be a really dumb move to slightly raise the string height on the bridge?

When you say the top two frets, do you mean at the end of the fingerboard, closest to the pickups?

That's normally thought of as the top, as in where the highest notes live. If that's the case, and only the b-string rattles, then you need to check three things:
1. Are those fret ends lifted on the B-string side, in the sense that you can see a little gap underneath, between the fret and the wood? If that's the case, you need to pad the back of the bass on a smooth surface using a towel, and then gently tap just the high ends of the frets down with a small rubber mallet. Just a few light to moderate taps. Don't go crazy, and don't tap all over the fingerboard.

2. If the fret ends are flush with the fingerboard, then you need to check the neck relief. Read the stickies or Google to find out how to check relief. If the neck is too flat (no relief or a backbow), then the truss rod needs a slight adjustment. This is NOT beginner stuff, and if you bugger the truss rod, you could lose your warranty. The permanent fix is to have the bass looked at by a tech.

3. If the frets aren't high and the relief is correct, then you are OK to do the obvious, and raise the bridge saddle for the B-string saddle slightly. You can use a small ruler, or a suitably-sized Allen key placed under the string across the fretboard, to measure the gap under the string. It's not execessive for the B-string to need to be about a millimetre higher off the frets, than the G-string.

On the other hand, if you meant that the open string was rattling at the bottom end, near the headstock, then you might need to have a new nut cut. This is not a beginner job. As before, you'd need to do a visual check for high frets and/or too little neck relief, before making a decision.

If the nut is cut too low (pretty rare, they're normally too high from the factory), you can make a temporary fix by cutting a little sliver off a business card and wedging it in the nut slot, under the B-string.
 
Thanks fellas

Steve thought i might get myself mixed up Haha, I did mean the end by the headstock i'd say there is probably half a mm if not less between the bottom two frets and the string (by the headstock)

The frets are flush to the fingerboard so i'm fine there

I think i'll do the obvious and raise the action of the B slightly to see if it makes any improvements

Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to find someone to look at it before i do it though to see what they think, if found a guitar shop local that i could pop into and see what they say.
 
if the problem is at the nut, raising the saddle is the wrong way to attack it, because the geometry is against you. You'd have to raise the string a country mile at the bridge to get the height you needed at the nut, making the upper frets unplayable.

Try the paper trick. It's free, stupid easy, and completely reversible.