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Fret buzz only on one fret (7th fret)

jking138

jking138

Oct 6, 2013
484
268
#1
So basically I bought a P bass, cheap, second hand that needed some work. Nothing too much, it had been left in a garage somewhere for a long time. I cleaned it, shielded the electronics, changed the strings and sorted out a large bow in the neck. However I'm left with a slight problem.
I have my suspicions that the 8th fret is a touch too high (or possible the 7th is too low), causing the buzz as it only appears when I play the 7th fret on the E or A strings.
The amount of bow in the neck and string height does not seem to remove the buzz, but reduces it a little, although it is still audible.

Am I correct in my logic? This is the first time I've had an issue like this so I don't want to rush into anything.
What would be the best way to determine the problem and fix it?
Thanks.
 
#3
You're most likely correct.
Find a short, very straight piece of metal and lay it across the 6th through 9th frets. That should help you see if the 8th is high or the 7th is low.
 
#4
Sometimes if the neck has a bad bow, the frets can come loose. I have a 68 P-bass that was stolen, and when it was returned (miraculously!), it had a seriously bad forward bow in the neck. I corrected the bow in the neck, but couldn't get the action as low as I had it before. I took it to a trusted repair person here, and every fret had come loose from being mistreated by whoever stole it. It plays great now after that was corrected.
 
#7
Zooberwerx said:
How much relief do you have on board? The 8th fret is a great place to measure. Try fretting the 7th with your middle finger and simultaneously fret the 6th with your index finger. Does that make any difference?

Riis
Click to expand...

I had about 1-2mm relief in the neck with the 1st and last fret pressed, I've tried it with more and less but it has the same result.
When I got it the neck had about 1cm of relief, quite a forward bow.
What difference does fretting the 6th and 7th simultaneously make?
 
#8
jking138 said:
I had about 1-2mm relief in the neck with the 1st and last fret pressed, I've tried it with more and less but it has the same result.
When I got it the neck had about 1cm of relief, quite a forward bow.
What difference does fretting the 6th and 7th simultaneously make?
Click to expand...

1-2mm is a lot of relief, I set mine to about .010"-.050", basically a business card. I would flatten then neck out and set the saddles to height again, then check.
 
#9
jking138 said:
I had about 1-2mm relief in the neck with the 1st and last fret pressed, I've tried it with more and less but it has the same result.
When I got it the neck had about 1cm of relief, quite a forward bow.
What difference does fretting the 6th and 7th simultaneously make?
Click to expand...

When dealing with normal fret / fingerboard topography, you should be looking at .305 mm to .356 mm which translates to .012" - .014".

I'm always suspicious when someone cites a fairly consistent fret buzz which does not seemingly respond to changes in relief and/or string height. Muting the string at the 6th with the index finger either points to or rules out "back buzz" between the fretted 7th and the nut. Easy enough, no special tools, and takes about 5 seconds.

Riis
 
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#11
Zooberwerx said:
When dealing with normal fret / fingerboard topography, you should be looking at .305 mm to .356 mm which translates to .012" - .014".

I'm always suspicious when someone cites a fairly consistent fret buzz which does not seemingly respond to changes in relief and/or string height. Muting the string at the 6th with the index finger either points to or rules out "back buzz" between the fretted 7th and the nut. Easy enough, no special tools, and takes about 5 seconds.

Riis
Click to expand...

DiabolusInMusic said:
1-2mm is a lot of relief, I set mine to about .010"-.050", basically a business card. I would flatten then neck out and set the saddles to height again, then check.
Click to expand...

I had about 1 - 2mm (past tense). I flattened it out to around 0.25 a while ago, it's still consistent, even if I raise the action from a relief of 0.25. I wouldn't mind the high action at this relief if it got rid of the buzz.
 
#12
Well, 0.25 mm translates to .010" which may be a tad too flat for any given instrument. It's sometimes hard to tell what's going on when changing multiple variables at once.

Did you try the muting trick? A variation is stick a small aluminum foil plug in the suspect nut slot with the string on top. Again, we're just ruling out the easy stuff.

I should have asked this first: did you set your witness points effectively? Failure to do so can create all sorts of havoc along the vibrating string path and afterlengths.

As JFS pointed out, it could be an uneven fret but, since it is limited to the thicker-gauge A & E strings, I'm suspicious something else may be amiss.

Riis
 
#13
Zooberwerx said:
Well, 0.25 mm translates to .010" which may be a tad too flat for any given instrument. It's sometimes hard to tell what's going on when changing multiple variables at once.

Did you try the muting trick? A variation is stick a small aluminum foil plug in the suspect nut slot with the string on top. Again, we're just ruling out the easy stuff.

I should have asked this first: did you set your witness points effectively? Failure to do so can create all sorts of havoc along the vibrating string path and afterlengths.

As JFS pointed out, it could be an uneven fret but, since it is limited to the thicker-gauge A & E strings, I'm suspicious something else may be amiss.

Riis
Click to expand...

I've been away this week so I haven't had chance yet. The 0.25mm is really a rough guess as I don't have a gauge, I'm not an expert at all, what do you mean by witness points?
I did consider that the neck maybe twisted but I've never come across this before so I'm really just hoping it's as simple as a raised or loose fret that needs taking down a touch.
 
#14
jking138 said:
I've been away this week so I haven't had chance yet. The 0.25mm is really a rough guess as I don't have a gauge, I'm not an expert at all, what do you mean by witness points?
I did consider that the neck maybe twisted but I've never come across this before so I'm really just hoping it's as simple as a raised or loose fret that needs taking down a touch.
Click to expand...

Don't need a gauge. Get yourself a set of feeler gauges from your local auto parts stores...probably run ya $4-5. A capo is also handy unless you've grown a 3rd arm.

Once strings are properly strung and tuned to near-pitch, jam your thumb down forcibly on each string on the fingerboard side of the nut and bridge saddles. This creates a bend which will clearly define the vibrating string path and afterlengths. Failure to do so will create all sorts of havoc when it comes to tuning, setting intonation, string height, and very frequently will create unwanted buzz / extraneous noises along the entire length of the string. Strings have the tendency to form a lazy-loop as they pass over the nut and bridge. The larger gauge strings are particularly resistant to bending and you did mention the E & A. Post lateral pics of the nut and bridge as-is and we'll take a look.

Could be a fret issue but, until your address your string installation process, you're chasing a phantom.

Riis
 
#16
Good to know you got it sorted out-

Sounds like 'lownote38' s comment-
"Sometimes if the neck has a bad bow, the frets can come loose. I have a 68 P-bass that was stolen, and when it was returned (miraculously!), it had a seriously bad forward bow in the neck. I corrected the bow in the neck, but couldn't get the action as low as I had it before. I took it to a trusted repair person here, and every fret had come loose from being mistreated by whoever stole it. It plays great now after that was corrected. "

Thanks for the solution/update, it may help someone else.
 
Last edited:
#17
Zooberwerx said:
How much relief do you have on board? The 8th fret is a great place to measure. Try fretting the 7th with your middle finger and simultaneously fret the 6th with your index finger. Does that make any difference?

Riis
Click to expand...
I found this post while experiencing the same issue. When i do what you suggested, the buzz goes away completely. What does this mean?
 
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#18
blazekwi said:
I found this post while experiencing the same issue. When i do what you suggested, the buzz goes away completely. What does this mean?
Click to expand...

One of a few things: improper string install (lacking adequate break angle & witness points), neck is too straight and/or you've kicked it into an "S" curve, or nut slot is over-cut. String was buzzing between the fretted note and nut....using the index finger muted the buzz. Suggestions:

*Make sure your relief is ~.012" for starters.

*3+ wraps on the string post for adequate break angle, set your witness points at the string post, nut slot, and bridge saddle to establish a true vibrating string path

*Determine your 1st fret / string clearance. Depress each string on TOP of the 3rd fret, measure the string / fret gap at the 1st. Should be .003-.005 via feeler gauges.

*If indeterminate, slacken the offending string and place a teeny aluminum foil pellet in the nut slot. Tune to pitch. Is the buzz still present?

Get back to us with your results and we'll go from there. From first appearance, looks like we're dealing with "back buzz" which is annoying as hell.

Riis
 
#19
Zooberwerx said:
One of a few things: improper string install (lacking adequate break angle & witness points), neck is too straight and/or you've kicked it into an "S" curve, or nut slot is over-cut. String was buzzing between the fretted note and nut....using the index finger muted the buzz. Suggestions:

*Make sure your relief is ~.012" for starters.

*3+ wraps on the string post for adequate break angle, set your witness points at the string post, nut slot, and bridge saddle to establish a true vibrating string path

*Determine your 1st fret / string clearance. Depress each string on TOP of the 3rd fret, measure the string / fret gap at the 1st. Should be .003-.005 via feeler gauges.

*If indeterminate, slacken the offending string and place a teeny aluminum foil pellet in the nut slot. Tune to pitch. Is the buzz still present?

Get back to us with your results and we'll go from there. From first appearance, looks like we're dealing with "back buzz" which is annoying as hell.

Riis
Click to expand...
So i added some relief and the buzz on fret 7 is gone but now there is fret 6…there is also a lil buzz on fret 5 of the G string.
 
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