• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Fret leveler advice;

ericg203

ericg203

Guest
Apr 19, 2014
17
0
Ohio
#1
Hello guys I am not really new to this community: I usually just use the search when I have a question a wonderful resource for all things bass. Anyhow, I have limited funds and I am just a hobbyist so I can't really see myself spending a lot of coin. But through experience I have learned that sometimes one has to bite the bullet and buy the proper tool for the job. I bought one of those gimicky fret level polish kits off of the Bay, for like $40.00 and not only did it not work it made my situation worse. Anyone tempted to try this course take it from me it isn't worth it!!
So now I am purchasing the proper tools to do a proper job of leveling and crown/polishing my bass. Here is my question is this okay to use for leveling? I can't load the link but it is called " Great Planes easy touch Bar sander" And it is on Tower hobbies site. And I have also read about using U-channel if the above isn't appropriate could someone point me in the direction of an relatively inexpensive solution?

Thanks Guys! Eric
 
#3
As long as that 'touch bar sander' is plenty stiff it should be ok for leveling frets. I've had the same bad luck with cheap tools - check out lmii.com, stewmac.com, or allparts.com for some gear that might set you back a bit but that should hold up.

good luck!
 
#4
Iz4005 It was the tool: One of those level and crown your frets with the strings on. It left loads of chatter on my frets and it surely did not work for a proper level. I have since used 600-1800 grit sandpaper, and a Dremel tool tool to dress and crown the damaged frets. I have between 3&4mm action on the E-string measured from the top of the fret to the bottom of the string at the 12th fret, 3mm for the A-string. and between 2&3mm for the D and G- strings. The issue I have is I know it can be better, and when I am not concentrating on a light touch I get some buzz on low F# on the E-string and low B on the G. Those are the only areas on my fretboard that buzz. Thats why I feel like at least a spot level is in order. Followed of course with a crowning and polish. Thanks for your response LowBc.
 
#5
The aluminum is .055" thick, less than a sixteenth. It will bend and flex so care must be used to only allow the weight of the tool to do the work. Tool flatness is the bigger concern. If you do not have a surface that will allow you to grind the tool flat (cast iron table saw table that has been worked flat, large piece of float or plate glass, etc.), using this tool may be more trouble than it is worth. You will spend hours chasing high spots.
 
#10
Hopkins said:
A good 24" level with a machined bottom works great.

I use one of these for leveling.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Stanley-FatMax-24-in-Non-Magnetic-Level-43-524/203736882

I use a $20 crowing file to crown the frets after leveling, and sand paper, and a rotary tool for polishing afterwards.
Click to expand...
I use basically the same setup and it works great.

The trick is making sure that the neck is flat and stays flat when leveling. When I saw what Stewmac was selling as a neck jig, I copied it a bit and made a neck jig that does the same thing. I've only done a few levels so far, but the results were much better frets every time.
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back