What material do most people use for lines on a fretless neck? I'm putting something in on a maple neck and dont know what would work best, i.e. fitting and being visible. Anyone have any suggestions?
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Fretless Inlay Material Suggestions
- Thread starter krfoss
- Start date
jworrellbass
Commercial User
- May 17, 2009
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You can cut your slots like a regular fretted FB and then use wood veneer where the fret wire would go. Then glue and sand.
Musiclogic
Commercial User
- Aug 6, 2005
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I use Ebony or rosewood veneers on Maple fretlesses if they want lines. Just like John said above. Like Marks idea for white lines....may check that out
- Jun 6, 2004
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- Owner and builder Clementbass
Thanks! Very helpful.
Anyone also have any suggestions for cutting the fret lines if I dont have a fretting miter box?
Anyone also have any suggestions for cutting the fret lines if I dont have a fretting miter box?
jworrellbass
Commercial User
- May 17, 2009
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- Owner, builder: jworrellbass
You can buy a pre-cut, radius fb from
http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/Secondproducthead.asp?CategoryName=Fingerboards
I'm sure if you look around there are others as well.
http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/Secondproducthead.asp?CategoryName=Fingerboards
I'm sure if you look around there are others as well.
I've used plane shavings that I flattened and cut. It was a bit fiddly but it came out ok. Getting even thickness is the issue.
Just btw, when you do it, the process goes as follows (I learnt the hard way)
1. clean out the slot
2. get the laminate into the slot
3. put some superglue along both side of it
4. wiggle the laminate side to side a little to help the superglue wick into the space
5. let the glue dry fully
6. slice the extra laminate off with a chisel till it's a mm or 2 proud of the fingerboard
7. sand the whole board with a long board with sand paper attached if possible to smooth
If one doesn't work, then you can just reslot that spot and do it again.
Oh and make sure you have plenty of ventilation. The superglue gave me a real headspin. And use gloves too. I nearly glued my fingers together multiple times.
Just btw, when you do it, the process goes as follows (I learnt the hard way)
1. clean out the slot
2. get the laminate into the slot
3. put some superglue along both side of it
4. wiggle the laminate side to side a little to help the superglue wick into the space
5. let the glue dry fully
6. slice the extra laminate off with a chisel till it's a mm or 2 proud of the fingerboard
7. sand the whole board with a long board with sand paper attached if possible to smooth
If one doesn't work, then you can just reslot that spot and do it again.
Oh and make sure you have plenty of ventilation. The superglue gave me a real headspin. And use gloves too. I nearly glued my fingers together multiple times.
Sounds awesome. I am going to use some of the colored white veneers from LMII. You mention superglue for gluing in the veneers. Could you use the regular wood glue? Also, what glue do you recommend for inlays (or anything else) that wont show the glue? I've heard mixing in some sawdust of the wood into the glue to help match the color of the wood.
Thoughts?
Thoughts?
you could use wood glue for veneer lines, but it will obviously take longer to dry.
I would not use ca for inlay gap filler. You will need a couple of minutes to mix in the sanding dust and spread it into the inlay gaps. CA might not give you that time. A 5-minute epoxy would. Also, use sanding dust instead of saw dust. It's finer and will mix better.
I would not use ca for inlay gap filler. You will need a couple of minutes to mix in the sanding dust and spread it into the inlay gaps. CA might not give you that time. A 5-minute epoxy would. Also, use sanding dust instead of saw dust. It's finer and will mix better.
