• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Fretless Warmoth Neck problem

Jan 10, 2010
1,480
2,289
Currently off planet
Disclosures
Eschew Obfuscation
Hey all. I was hoping Some kind soul could could make some suggestions.

I currently own a Warmoth fretless that I never use. It is gorgeous with a Madagascar Ebony fingerboard to match the Walnut body and head stock. The problem is I live in Pennsylvania where it gets cold and the bass is unplayable in the Winter. The neck will flatten the strings against the fingerboard and when I raise the strings, the board is fine in the money positions but too tall in the upper registers. I could adjust the truss rod back and forth but this seems both tedious and not especially healthy for the truss rod or the bass generally. The setup was done by my friend J Thomas Davis who is extremely good at setup and I have used him for years. I however cannot use him now since he is retired.

I know it is hard to diagnose based on a post, but does this problem sound familiar to anyone? Does Madagascar ebony have issues that would cause it to swell or contract far more (or more likely far less) than other woods? Does it sound like the board needs to be resurfaced? Does the neck sound like it is just really unstable? I have never owned an electric bass that needed special summer and winter re-adjustments of the truss rod. It seems like that would indicate some kind of problem.

What do you think? Feel free to ask more questions if it helps with diagnosis, or at least a better guess without actually seeing the bass.

By the way - any suggestion that I move to a warmer climate will go to the head of the line and be treated with the utmost respect.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: zon6c-f
Truss rod adjustments are the correct way to deal with the issue. I have to adjust mine a few times per year because of the Michigan climate. It's normal for wood to move with humidity changes. Adjusting string height only will not help.

There are several links about setting up your bass in the hardware setup and repair forum. You can do the work yourself.
 
I could adjust the truss rod back and forth but this seems both tedious and not especially healthy for the truss rod or the bass generally.

The truss rod is specifically there so one can adjust the neck as it moves due to changes in the environment. I'd go as far as to say that *not* adjusting it to compensate for the weather is not especially healthy for the rod or bass. Or at the very least, for playing.
 
The truss rod is specifically there so one can adjust the neck as it moves due to changes in the environment. I'd go as far as to say that *not* adjusting it to compensate for the weather is not especially healthy for the rod or bass. Or at the very least, for playing.

Thanks Mapleglo (love me some Ricks!!). It's just that I have never needed to do that on any other bass. Glad to hear it's not a mutant bass thing!!

Are you sure I don't have to move somewhere warm before October of this year? I mean because, I would be open to that advice.
 
  • Like
Reactions: mapleglo
Truss rod adjustments are the correct way to deal with the issue. I have to adjust mine a few times per year because of the Michigan climate. It's normal for wood to move with humidity changes. Adjusting string height only will not help.

There are several links about setting up your bass in the hardware setup and repair forum. You can do the work yourself.

Thanks!! I guess I was a little nervous about touching the truss rod. I had one snap on me. It was a 70's Fender P bass (fretles actually) I have been scared of them ever since. Time to get over that I suppose.
 
By the way - any suggestion that I move to a warmer climate will go to the head of the line and be treated with the utmost respect.

I wouldn't suggest that at all. What I would suggest is that you send it to me, I'll play it for a couple of years and let you know how it goes in a different environment. ;)

Seriously though, I have two warmoth jazz necks, one thin taper fretted (one of the thinnest necks I've ever played) and one normal thickness fretless. The latter is bird's eye maple with rosewood board. I've not had a problem with either and I previously lived in the Snowy Mountains in Australia where there temps in summer go up around 35c (95f) and in winter go down under 0c (mid to high 20's f) with very little humidity. I now live in Christchurch NZ with similar temps in winter but MUCH more moisture. My necks move very little and rarely need a truss rod tweak...... so yeah, send it to me and I'll check it out :laugh:
 
  • Like
Reactions: thmsjordan
Once the bass is properly set up for you, you shouldn't ever have to adjust the saddle height. Just the seasonal truss rod adjustment. No need to bend the neck while making the adjustment. Don't turn more than 1/4 turn at a time, tune it, and let it sit for a couple of hours before you continue. The neck may move a bit over a couple days. So, don't be afraid to make minute adjustments.
 
I could adjust the truss rod back and forth but this seems both tedious and not especially healthy for the truss rod or the bass generally.

If you think it's tedious than I would say the problem lies with you. Seriously.

As for the neck: It's wood. Think about it. Trees aren't static. They bend. They twist. They turn. They expand. They contract. They spend their whole lives in motion.

As per the truss rod: The amount of adjustment can't be more than a quarter turn at best - the truss rod can handle it - trust me.

For the record: In the past couple of months I've probably adjusted the neck relief and tweaked the action on my bass 2 - 3 times a month. I would do it every day if I had to.
 
  • Like
Reactions: bdplaid
I could be remembering incorrectly, but I thought I have a set of D'Addarios on my desk that say 400, I could be completely wrong. I'll check it. I might be thinking of my eight string/dual course bass, but I'll check.

Even at 132, it's better to not try and use the truss rod to move that much tension, just use the truss rod to hold it in place.
 
Thanks Beej - there seems to be a consensus forming here. I kinda hoped I would be forced to move to Miami or something but I will get out the tools instead this fall.
I hate to break it to you but I live in Florida and have to adjust my neck all the time; humidity changes you know.

And I bet you snapped that previous truss rod because it had never been "exercised", meaning twisted every once in a while. They rust up and seize some times.