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G&L Basses - Why no love?

No need... I stated the facts clearly, and more than once.
Again with the random unrelated stuff? ..this time it's grapes, songs, and band success.
Nothing to do with good manufacturing tolerances, micro-tilt and standard set up procedure.
Go ahead and keep jacking your neck up and down every time you change strings, good luck with that. :thumbsup:
actually, he's right. that's why a lot people prefer bolt on necks - because you can shim them to get the set-up you desire. graphite rods don't change that and if you have bolt on necks it is quite likely there is a shim in at least one of them.
 
No doubt! But DiPinto might be raising its profile, because Chris has moved production to the U.S. -- Norristown, PA to be exact -- and the guitars are flat out awesome.

I have a Mach IV bass, and modded it with G&L MFD's... best of both worlds!!! :D
IMG-20170427-00680.jpg
 
actually, he's right. that's why a lot people prefer bolt on necks - because you can shim them to get the set-up you desire. graphite rods don't change that and if you have bolt on necks it is quite likely there is a shim in at least one of them.
I'm gonna guess that you have not read carefully the several posts Rabidhamster and I made on the subject of micro-tilt adjustment systems.
He is under the impression that part of every standard bass setup is dialing your neck heel up or down (or using a shim) to meet where your bridge saddle happens to be sitting, as opposed to using the adjustable bridge saddles to set string height.
He recommends that you move your neck heel up or down every time you change string gauge and/or change your strings.
He is under the impression that a bridge is for setting string length for intonation and to make adjustments to follow fretboard radius only, sorry that's just incorrect.
I have no shims in any of my basses and have not used the micro-tilt feature (that all my USA Peavey basses have) to adjust string height.
I did not say that shims are not a fact of life sometimes, I said they were, but also said that if you need one, it is an indication that the neck pocket, neck/heel, and the bridge are not all at correct specifications.
If a manufacturing company cuts a correct pocket and makes a neck to a precise spec, and chooses a compatible bridge, and the bass stays that way, then you can set a bass up correctly forever without a micro-tilt system.
The pocket and neck heel should be cut to fit correctly with the bridge when the saddles are right in the middle of their height adjustment range, then people have room to adjust the saddles to set their string height higher or lower to taste.
My comment about graphite rods was, that it is a better way to spend money at manufacturing than going to the cost of making a neck adjustment system you can dial up and down on a set screw every time you set up your bass.
The rods obviously have nothing to do with pocket/heel/bridge specs, I just happen to think it's money well spent to add support rods to make a really stable neck as opposed to making a fancy system that solves a problem that should not exist, and can be solved with a shim that costs nothing.
If you need one, a shim should be a one time thing, but it's still is a fix for a bass that is a bit out of whack in one or more of the areas I indicated above.
Does that make things more clear?
 
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hopefully i won't get banned for this, but what the hell
the strings that come on the g&ls are super zingy with their pickups, and sometimes fellows don't want the zing and that might turn potential buyers off

That's just because it's not a Fender that's been hanging on the wall at GC for 8 months with everyone handling it with their grubby hands and killing the strings.... I believe the factory strings nowadays are D'Addario XL, which aren't overtly bright, IMO.
 
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I'm gonna guess that you have not read carefully the several posts Rabidhamster and I made on the subject of micro-tilt adjustment systems.
He is under the impression that part of every standard bass setup is dialing your neck heel up or down (or using a shim) to meet where your bridge saddle happens to be sitting, as opposed to using the adjustable bridge saddles to set string height.
He recommends that you move your neck heel up or down every time you change string gauge and/or change your strings.
He is under the impression that a bridge is for setting string length for intonation and to make adjustments to follow fretboard radius only, sorry that's just incorrect.
I have no shims in any of my basses and have not used the micro-tilt feature (that all my USA Peavey basses have) to adjust string height.
I did not say that shims are not a fact of life sometimes, I said they were, but that is an indication that the neck pocket, neck/heel, and the bridge are not all at correct specifications, if you need one.
If a manufacturing company cuts a correct pocket and makes a neck to a precise spec, and chooses a compatible bridge, and the bass stays that way, then you can set a bass up correctly forever without a micro-tilt system.
The pocket and neck heel should be cut to fit correctly with the bridge when it is right in the middle of it's height adjustment range, then people have room to adjust the saddles to set their string height higher or lower to taste.
My comment about graphite rods was, that it is a better way to spend money at manufacturing than going to the cost of making a neck adjustment system you can dial up and down on a set screw every time you set up your bass.
The rods obviously have nothing to do with pocket/heel/bridge specs, I just happen to think it's money well spent to add support rods to make a really stable neck as opposed to making a fancy system that solves a problem that should not exist, and than can (if needed) be solved with a shim that costs nothing.
A shim should be a one time thing (if you ever need one) but it still is a fix for a bass that is a bit out of whack in one or more of the areas I indicated above.
Does that make things more clear?
it does. and agreed. I read through some but not all your back and forth. I just know that for me I was surprised to learn how common shims are.
 
I want to love an Empress MJ-5 but can't get with the 17.5mm spacing. Not that I couldn't adjust to it if it were the only bass I played, but my Brute is 19mm and I don't want to have things feel different if I use one or the other.
 

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